Chip
Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.
QUOTE: Originally posted by SpaceMouse Use house paint and a roller. You might want a lighter color if you plan to draw on it. (you will.)
QUOTE: Originally posted by selector It will probably go faster, and as long as you are adept with the 'weapon' and can aovid a lot of paint sagging and running (equals waste, not unsightly as you will cover most of it with scenic foam and structures?), I would say sure, Jarrell. If you do not live in a humid area, and can leave them protected, but outside, they will dry a lot faster, too. Mine took many hours in my basement before I pruchased a dehumidifier. By the way, how's it goin'?
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Simon Modelling CB&Q and Wabash See my slowly evolving layout on my picturetrail site http://www.picturetrail.com/simontrains and our videos at http://www.youtube.com/user/MrCrispybake?feature=mhum
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
QUOTE: Originally posted by petejung I did what Randy is going to do and regret it... Waited til the track and ballast was on before I painted. It ended up taking a long time to paint b/c I was worried about getting paint on the ballast... So there's still pink sowing, which I can touch up later, but as you see, more work later... What I think I should have done was paint the foam and then lay track and roadbed... But I agree that sprinkling ground foam may be counterproductive. Go my paint in the OOPS rack at HD, too. For some reason, they always have brown in that rack.
QUOTE: Originally posted by simon1966 What ever you do, remember to peel off the plastic film that covers many of the foams. I forgot and regret it. I find slopping on the paint good and thick after I have added scenery elements like carved out gullys and built up ridges to work best. The thicker paint hold the sprinkled ground foam better as well.
QUOTE: Originally posted by Robert Knapp Jarrel, If you plan to have grades and varying landforms, hills, rivers, drainage trenches, etc, you should hold off on painting the foam. Layout the track and grades with scenery also in mind. There may end up with areas that you will create a hill/ mountain w/ portals to breakup the dogbone curves etc. These spots would have layers of foam carved/ shaped to meet the scenery you desire. After the trackwork and scenery base is complete is when you would paint w/ a latex/ acylic house paint. Use a color of the earth for the local that you are modeling. Then sprinkle the ground foam on the wet paint. Save the ballasting for last, especially want to test out the trackwork and debug or repair before applying ballast. Bob K.
QUOTE: Originally posted by egmurphy I'm with the group that would suggest painting first. Gets the stark blue or pink covered quickly. Leave the ground foam for later. When it's time to put down ground foam it's easy to brush on a thinned coat of white glue. And with the wet paint method, I think that unless you work real fast and only put down a thin layer of ground foam, you're likely to have to do some further glueing anyway. jmho Ed, do you do any trenches, streams, hills or other land forms before you put that initial paint on? Jarrell Ed
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
QUOTE: Originally posted by selector I agree with Robert K. My experience, for which I congratulate myself, was to construct the right of way, grades, tunnels, and bridges first, but placing and aligning the EZ-Track all along to make sure I wasn't going to end up with that staggered join where it was all supposed to come together. Then, I painted the whole area to be ground-covered AFTER covering the track with 2" painter's tape (no residue). Since EZ-Track is already ballasted, AND I was going to sand ballast over it, I was able to slop on the paint, as I said in a previous post, and cover any slops with the ballast when I eventually got that that bit. If you have Flex-track and will ballast, then you might just as well draw centre lines where the track will go (confirm!), and paint right up to that line first. Track goes down later with ballast covering the paint as necessary. As Ed points out, you can ground cover any time later.
QUOTE: Originally posted by Medina1128 And save those odd shaped little pieces of foam that are left when you shave the foam. They make great little mounds, hills, etc. I am shaping mine as I go and will tack the fascia in place, trace the shape of the terrain to it and cut it out with a jigsaw. And by all means, install a fascia. It'll protect the edges of your terrain from elbows, shop vac hoses, extension cords, all those other things that will come in contact with the edges of your layout.
QUOTE: Originally posted by SpaceMouse I wouldn't glue down the foam until you have a plan. If you want mountains with grades, bridges, any kind of elevation of your track for any reason, the foam will be in the way. If you have grades you don't need foam in those place so you have extra for your contours. You're reaching the bridge where every thing you do will limit what you can do in terms of track work. You need to layout the towns, mountains, industries, etc. so that the track work makes sense. I did not do this so now I am fitting the scenery, structures, and industries to my track work and a lot of it just doesn't fit.
QUOTE: Originally posted by selector Jarrell, yes, but as Chip says, you need to build all of the topography first. Do you intend to have a tunnel, water course, mountain, grades, bridges, gulleys for a nice trestle bridge, and so on? Look at your layout and figure out what they will look like and where they'll be situated. Then, build them, and try to do it with your track-plan bird's-eye view in mind. Of course, if you will have a completely flat layout with a foam base, then do as you state in your last post to me (Chip says, and I am right behind him, that if you intend to have structures, where will they be? Really...go and place your hand where your factory, pumphouse, water tower, cafe, cottage, etc. will be. Now, where is your track going to run, again? See what we mean?) When your mountains and water courses are all roughed in, then you do the alternating track laying, pull it up and refine, re-lay, re-refine, and so on until you can safely leave all of your temporarily connected track down, hook up some wires and a controller, and actually prove your track with a couple of locos and trains. When you know it is right, you can take it all up and paint as you asked me in that last post addressed to me. Whew, i'm sweating!