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Power Lines

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Power Lines
Posted by grandeman on Monday, May 16, 2005 7:44 PM
Hi ya'll. Any advice from the pros on modeling power lines? I'm thinking monofilament but wondered if anyone has a better idea. Thanks!
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Posted by cheese3 on Monday, May 16, 2005 8:57 PM
I used thread. Just run it through some bees wax and the will prevent it from sticking to your other "power lines" and keep it from fraying. You could also use fishing line. Good Luck! [:D][8D]

Adam Thompson Model Railroading is fun!

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Posted by BRVRR on Monday, May 16, 2005 9:39 PM
grande man,
Berkshire Junction markets a product called EZ Line. It comes in several colors and a couple of sizes and comes on 100 foot rolls for about $11.00 a roll. It is a polymer with 700% stretch and then returns to its original shape. I saw it demonstrated at a train show a couple of months ago. I haven't used it yet, but I will when I run my power lines.
This is a link to Berkshire Junction: [url="http://berkshirejunction.com"]
Hope this helps.

Remember its your railroad

Allan

  Track to the BRVRR Website:  http://www.brvrr.com/

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Posted by grandeman on Monday, May 16, 2005 9:44 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by BRVRR

grande man,
Berkshire Junction markets a product called EZ Line. It comes in several colors and a couple of sizes and comes on 100 foot rolls for about $11.00 a roll. It is a polymer with 700% stretch and then returns to its original shape. I saw it demonstrated at a train show a couple of months ago. I haven't used it yet, but I will when I run my power lines.
This is a link to Berkshire Junction: [url="http://berkshirejunction.com"]
Hope this helps.


That does help! I think I'll give it a try. Thanks.
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Posted by rrinker on Monday, May 16, 2005 10:03 PM
Yes, that is some very nice stuff. They (Berkshire Junction) come to a lot of the train shows I go to, and always have their demo set up with a set of poles with their lines on it and a motorized mechanism that constantly presses down and stretches the lines and then lets them snap back in place. That's definitely the stuff I will use when I get that far. I can't imagine using somethign with no give - just imagine the trouble if you put a hand in the wrong place and snap off all that hard work?

--Randy

Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

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Posted by electrolove on Tuesday, May 17, 2005 2:22 AM
I have been looking for things like this for a while, seems to be the ultimate thing to use. Thanks [8D]

QUOTE: Originally posted by BRVRR

grande man,
Berkshire Junction markets a product called EZ Line. It comes in several colors and a couple of sizes and comes on 100 foot rolls for about $11.00 a roll. It is a polymer with 700% stretch and then returns to its original shape. I saw it demonstrated at a train show a couple of months ago. I haven't used it yet, but I will when I run my power lines.
This is a link to Berkshire Junction: [url="http://berkshirejunction.com"]
Hope this helps.
Rio Grande Zephyr 5771 from Denver, Colorado to Salt Lake City, Utah "Thru the Rockies"
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Posted by orsonroy on Tuesday, May 17, 2005 7:26 AM
The stuff Berkshire Valley sells is Lycra thread. You can pick it up (in several colors) at any sewing supply store for about 1/4 the price BV sells it for.

Ray Breyer

Modeling the NKP's Peoria Division, circa 1943

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Posted by electrolove on Tuesday, May 17, 2005 2:12 PM
You are right, thanks for telling. I searched the net and this is what I found.

http://www.ww1.org.uk/rigging.htm

Look at how thin they are.

QUOTE: Originally posted by orsonroy

The stuff Berkshire Valley sells is Lycra thread. You can pick it up (in several colors) at any sewing supply store for about 1/4 the price BV sells it for.
Rio Grande Zephyr 5771 from Denver, Colorado to Salt Lake City, Utah "Thru the Rockies"
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Posted by Bikerdad on Tuesday, May 17, 2005 6:04 PM
Seems to me that using a stretch thread is going to compromise the authenticity. Real power lines sag, Lycra thread doesn't. (In fact, as any sports bra maker will tell you, anti-sag is the whole point!)
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Posted by Medina1128 on Tuesday, May 17, 2005 10:25 PM
When I was in telecommuncations (showing my age, I guess), we used to wire our own snap uses. The wire is really fine and I imagine that it could be used and since it is metal (copper strand) it can be "dressed" to simulate the sag of real power/phone wires.
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Posted by Seamonster on Tuesday, May 17, 2005 11:41 PM
You mean fuses, don't you? Sheesh, I remember wiring more than a few of those myself. That was tedious work. Can't remember why we wired them rather than buy new ones. As I recall that fuse wire was extremely expensive. Thanks for stirring up an old, forgotten memory, Marlon.

..... Bob

Beam me up, Scotty, there's no intelligent life down here. (Captain Kirk)

I reject your reality and substitute my own. (Adam Savage)

Resistance is not futile--it is voltage divided by current.

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Posted by dave9999 on Wednesday, May 18, 2005 12:01 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by grande man

Hi ya'll. Any advice from the pros on modeling power lines? I'm thinking monofilament but wondered if anyone has a better idea. Thanks!


On a previous layout, I used a heavy black thread that I purchased at Walmart.
It worked really well. My only advice to you is to string the power lines LAST...
after everything else is complete. You WILL snag them every time you reach
over the layout.... Murphy's Law. Good luck, Dave
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Posted by FCnota on Wednesday, May 18, 2005 12:25 PM
I haven't tried it, but from what I'm reading I'm thinking a fishing line called Spider Wire woud work. I use it for fishing (obviously), it comes in a couple of colors, will sag and is VERY strong. You could try it if you couldn't find the other suggestions.
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Posted by jkeaton on Wednesday, May 18, 2005 12:36 PM
Lycra thread! Thanks, guys.

Oh, and Bikerdad, loose lycra sags quite nicely - just talk to someone who's lost enough weight and you'll see!

Jim
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, May 19, 2005 11:44 AM
As for color, it depends on what kind of line you want to model.

For newer powerlines, I'd look at an aluminum conductor. New aluminum lines are shiny, but after a few years turn dark - almost black. I'd look for a very dark grey to model the color.

For older lines I'd model a copper line. After a few years the copper gets a nice dark green patina.

Mark in Utah
(Electric utility guy)
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Posted by dave5000 on Thursday, May 19, 2005 10:27 PM
I bought some stretch thread at WMT - for like a buck a roll - perfect for O, it may be a bit large for HO though. I have seen the Berk. jct stuff and that made me remember about stretch thread. $11. vs $1. you choose. :)

It comes in black and white - you can dye the white any color for cheap with RIT dye.

In this pic you can see the use of this thread - I used super glue to attach it to the insulators and was able to put sag into the wires.



For more photos go to:
http://nasme.tripod.com

Thanks
d5k
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Posted by grandeman on Thursday, May 19, 2005 10:31 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by dave5000

I used super glue to attach it to the insulators and was able to put sag into the wires.




Awesome tip. You get the sag and lycra stretch!
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Posted by Seamonster on Friday, May 20, 2005 9:15 AM
For modeling power lines on my N scale layout, I used ordinary dark grey thread "borrowed" from my wife's sewing basket. Power lines are covered with a black insulation which fades over time to a dirty black or grey colour. I tried black, and it just looked too stark. I also modeled high-tension lines (the ones on steel towers). Those conductors are not insulated and for them I used a metallic thread that I found in a craft store. The effect is that of sunlight glinting off the conductors on a bright summer day. Very effective.

..... Bob

Beam me up, Scotty, there's no intelligent life down here. (Captain Kirk)

I reject your reality and substitute my own. (Adam Savage)

Resistance is not futile--it is voltage divided by current.

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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, May 20, 2005 12:19 PM
I work in the photocopier industry and have used corona charge wire which on some models comes in spools about 4 feet long. The copier advances the spool over time to give a clean surface for charging the 600 volt potential used. When it is time to change the spool I keep the old one to use as telegraph wire.

The wire becomes grey and weathered looking after use and it conducts if you want to power some thing as well. It is a very fine but strong wire and almost invisible from any distance.

I first install my pole line and over a period of operation observe where there might be conflicts with the overhead when switching and or rerailing cars. The poles in these areas I leave unwired but in other places it looks great along the rite of way.[2c]
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Posted by trainboyH16-44 on Friday, May 20, 2005 1:33 PM
Has anyone tried piano wire? If you bend it right, I think it would look quite good, keeping it's sagging shape.
Trainboy

Go here for my rail shots! http://www.railpictures.net/showphotos.php?userid=9296

Building the CPR Kootenay division in N scale, blog here: http://kootenaymodelrailway.wordpress.com/

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Posted by Medina1128 on Friday, May 20, 2005 1:36 PM
Western... thanks for stirring up memories of corona wires (used to work for Xerox AND Ricoh)....
And seamonster.. yes, I did mean fuses.. sheesh.. rented fingers...
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Posted by nobullchitbids on Friday, May 20, 2005 5:20 PM
The nice thing about using something like annealed .005" brass wire is that, unlike thread, it can stand great abuse without breaking. Most I know who have strung scale electric wires sooner or later snag and break them in the course of pulling normal pike maintenance -- and the little devils never can be put back the way they were without an unbelievable amount of hassle.

Fine wire sags like wire and is stronger than thread, as any shark will tell you. And it still pays to locate the power lines as far from the front of the table as realistic placement will allow.
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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, May 20, 2005 7:33 PM
on an old layout, we used terquois colored thread, for telegraph wires. note, if you use thread, pull out more than you need, and let it set for a few days, to shrink.
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Posted by johncolley on Friday, May 20, 2005 8:19 PM
Here's one to try! If you are near any large city, find a music store the re-strings Violin and Bass bows. Tell them what you are doing and ask them to save you the old horsehair! It is thicker than human hair. If you are in the country, go to a stable and you can get tail hair that is brushed out...in colors!
jc5729
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Posted by kicksvette on Tuesday, June 14, 2005 8:57 PM
Here's an idea that probably makes good of something we've all done at some point. How many of us have fried a snap switch? Be honest. It's happened. Did you through it away? Luckily, I didn't. Just peel off the melted plastic. The wire used on the twin coils has potential for detailing. It can be used for stringing power lines. A bit of weathering liquid can adjust the color. But the first use I came up with was as a fence line for a cattle range. I stuck ordinary toothpicks into the scenery and cut them off at a realistic height for fence poles. Add a bit of stain for coloring. Then use the trashed out wire from the fried twin-coil to run wire from fence pole to fence pole. I ran 3 lines, low, mid and top. Loop each line around the pole and secure with your fav superglue. It gave me a realistic cattle fence in N and should work for others.
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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, June 15, 2005 10:05 PM
I used embroidery thread run thru beeswax and CA'd to the insulators. Works really well and sags realistically after about a week or so.

However, I did notice that since it is summer and the humidity has gone up, the sag has increased significantly. I'm hoping that this is not permanent, or I will have to take it all down and try again.

There are some photos of it on my website and also my webshots site.
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Posted by CNJ831 on Thursday, June 16, 2005 8:02 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by rrinker

Yes, that is some very nice stuff. They (Berkshire Junction) come to a lot of the train shows I go to, and always have their demo set up with a set of poles with their lines on it and a motorized mechanism that constantly presses down and stretches the lines and then lets them snap back in place. That's definitely the stuff I will use when I get that far. I can't imagine using somethign with no give - just imagine the trouble if you put a hand in the wrong place and snap off all that hard work?


I'm amazed by all the alternate suggested possibilities of totally non-resilient items for use as telephone/power lines after seeing that E-Z Line by Berkshire Junction was mentioned twice in just the first few posts! You can drop a hammer across strung E-Z Line, remove it, and the line resumes its original appearance. Every other method/item suggested here would end up totally destroyed under similar circumstances.

CNJ831

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