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My Favorite Boxcar Is A ...

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  • From: US
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My Favorite Boxcar Is A ...
Posted by jacon12 on Friday, April 22, 2005 8:33 AM
a piece of junk!

But.. I like it anyway!
I cut the horn and hook coupler and wheels off so...... what do I have to do now? Do I cut off the little quarter inch plastic 'dowel' and then drill and tap a hole for new trucks and coupler?
Thanks for any help!
Jarrell
 HO Scale DCC Modeler of 1950, give or take 30 years.
  • Member since
    April 2003
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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, April 22, 2005 9:38 AM
Wow.

Did that truck snap off? Are you able to open up the car and get at it from the inside?

As long as the underframe is straight and intact, I see no reason why you cannot use a good set of trucks and wheels on a drilled and tapped hole.

Is that a AHM or IHC car? The grafitti rings a bell. (I like the grafitti)
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Posted by jacon12 on Friday, April 22, 2005 10:25 AM
Highiron, I cut the little plastic tab off that held the trucks in place. I think, but not sure, that I now need to finish cutting off the rest of it down to the shoulder of the larger piece, drill a hole and tap it. Then I have to find (do they make these?) trucks that have the coupler box attached and install it.
Jarrell
 HO Scale DCC Modeler of 1950, give or take 30 years.
  • Member since
    June 2003
  • From: Culpeper, Va
  • 8,204 posts
Posted by IRONROOSTER on Friday, April 22, 2005 12:33 PM
Yes, trucks with the coupler box attached are called talgo trucks. Several manufacturers make these. It looks to me from your picture that cutting down to the shoulder and then drilling a hole is the simplest way to go. Assuming the floor is plastic, I would use a self tapping screw.
Enjoy
Paul
If you're having fun, you're doing it the right way.
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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, April 22, 2005 1:02 PM
Maybe it might run better if you mounted Kaydee Coupler boxes on that under carriage instead of talgos?

Just a question. Dont let it influence your plans for that Boxcar.
  • Member since
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  • From: US
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Posted by jacon12 on Friday, April 22, 2005 1:12 PM
Thanks Paul and Highiron. I'll look for the talgo trucks and for the Kaydee Coupler boxes. I'm assuming that the Kaydee couplers would have to be glued on, is that correct?
 HO Scale DCC Modeler of 1950, give or take 30 years.
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, April 22, 2005 1:50 PM
I hate glueing kaydee boxes. 5 seconds worth of Goo later it's set. I can never get them straight. I am a coward and avoid having to glue boxes to the floor. However. I rather do that than see Talgo trucks derail everytime a slack runs in or when being pushed.
  • Member since
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  • From: US
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Posted by jacon12 on Friday, April 22, 2005 2:51 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by HighIron2003ar

Wow..

Is that a AHM or IHC car? The grafitti rings a bell. (I like the grafitti)


HighIron, it has "Austria" stamped on the bottom, if that helps.
Jarrell
 HO Scale DCC Modeler of 1950, give or take 30 years.
  • Member since
    June 2003
  • From: Culpeper, Va
  • 8,204 posts
Posted by IRONROOSTER on Friday, April 22, 2005 3:15 PM
Since I don't use talgo trucks, I'm not sure how you fasten the lid on. Usually the coupler box is part of the tongue and the lid is fasten to it after inserting the coupler. If possible, I would use a screw rather than glue - it's easier to take apart if you need to and the glue doesn't get inside.

Enjoy
Paul
If you're having fun, you're doing it the right way.
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Weymouth, Ma.
  • 5,199 posts
Posted by bogp40 on Sunday, April 24, 2005 10:47 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by HighIron2003ar

I hate glueing kaydee boxes. 5 seconds worth of Goo later it's set. I can never get them straight. I am a coward and avoid having to glue boxes to the floor. However. I rather do that than see Talgo trucks derail everytime a slack runs in or when being pushed.



Kadee coupler boxes should be mounted to the floor/ frame with a 2-56 screw. That way you can adjust the box for height w/ shims and straighten at any time.
Glueing a #5 lid on the box is not a very secure coupler mounting- a minor hard hitch and the box is apart.
Kadee has the #246 Tap and Drill set that is a great set for this purpose. The set comes w/ a 2-56 tap, a #50 tap/ pilot drill and a #43 clearance drill. This is also great for truck mounting and repairs. The 2-56 Kadee delrin screws are also helpful when you need that just length screw- cuts easily to any size you like. Don't use a Dremel- too fast and no control- use a pin vise.
Bob K.

Modeling B&O- Chessie  Bob K.  www.ssmrc.org

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