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Extruded Foam Thickness

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  • Member since
    November 2002
  • From: US
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Extruded Foam Thickness
Posted by jacon12 on Monday, April 11, 2005 8:58 AM
On my first layout I'm going with a flat topped plywood bench (easier for me) and 2 inch extruded foam on top of that. What would be the advantage of having 4 inches (2 layers) over just 2? I guess what I'm asking is can you do small stream or river beds in just 2 inches?
Also, is this stuff easy to carve and what are some of the tools that would make it easier, like for doing ditches, stream beds etc.?
Jacon
 HO Scale DCC Modeler of 1950, give or take 30 years.
  • Member since
    March 2002
  • From: Elgin, IL
  • 3,677 posts
Posted by orsonroy on Monday, April 11, 2005 9:23 AM
I wouldn't bother with more than 2" of foam as a general base. If you need to go down more than 2" (like for a deep ravine), remove the plywood base and add foam as necessary below your base level. You'll save a LOT of money by only lowering what you need.

As for tools, I prefer almost all hand tools. Stanley Surefoam rasps, old bread knives, hacksaw blades and snap blade boxcutters are my favorite and most used tools, along with a palm sander and the OCCASIONAL use of a wire wheel chucked into a power drill. And of course, a shop vac!

Ray Breyer

Modeling the NKP's Peoria Division, circa 1943

  • Member since
    April 2003
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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, April 11, 2005 10:15 AM
Ray is right, Jaycon. You'll have a nice, sturdy base. I once built a large layout using only 2" foam and no plywood, with simple wood supports, and that worked well, too. Foam is very tough stuff. You'll like it for scenery, too.
  • Member since
    November 2002
  • From: US
  • 4,641 posts
Posted by jacon12 on Monday, April 11, 2005 2:51 PM
Thanks guys, I'm going to give it a go. I've still got about 18 feet of benchwork to complete before buying the foam, but I figured since this was my very first try the foam would be the most forgiving of screwups.. :).
I appreciate your answers!
Jacon
 HO Scale DCC Modeler of 1950, give or take 30 years.
  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Vancouver Island, BC
  • 23,321 posts
Posted by selector on Monday, April 11, 2005 8:25 PM
I made good use of a handled wire brush, Jacon. this is especially true when you are nit-picking easements and grades to get them 'flat' ,or constant. so that your track doesn't ride up at joins, or float over sections of bed. Steamers, espcially , will thank you for a consistent ride up a grade or around low-radius curves that don't have waves in them.
  • Member since
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  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, April 11, 2005 9:56 PM
Jaycon, see the "Benchwork, plywood or foam?" thread on this forum, too. If you want to crawl on top of your layout in far away corners, of course, you'll need plywood, and maybe sturdy 2 by 4 legs and good bracing. Otherwise, the plywood is old school and not really necessary.

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