Layout Design GalleryLayout Design Special Interest Group
QUOTE: Muddy Creek Posted: 03 Apr 2005, 20:04:07 This is actually, not an uncommon method. It is often used in garages where cars, for reasons unknown to me, often have to be stored indoors on occasions. A series of pulleys and cables are used and care is taken to provide adaquate support and to raise & lower the layout without tilting it. Detachable legs or saw-horses support it during operation. There are a number of commercially available hand operated pulley systems available for his use (primarilly marketed to increase storage in garages.) Here's a link to a system that I was considering: http://www.hoister.com/ If you make you layout from lightweight materials, using primarily foam construction with only minimal use of wood, you won't need mechanical power to lift it. I've been planning a portion of my layout that may hoist up to the celing when not in use. I expect that the section, larger than you are planning (about 7'x13') to weigh not much more than 50 or 60 lbs., easy to lift using pulleys. This has been discussed here in the past, so expect the usual dire warnings and admonitions to not try it from those who haven't tried it themselves. Built correctly, there is absolutely no danger in this method. Wayne
QUOTE: davekellyPosted: 03 Apr 2005, 21:00:11 There was an article years ago in Model Railroader about a guy who did build an operating layout in this garage that could be lifted up when not in use. I would assume that a search through the mag index at the top of this page may be able to locate it. It was a beautiful layout, seemed to work OK and is evidence that such a project can be done. While I have never build such a layout, it would seem to be that such a layout would have to have benchwork a little more sturdy than one is used too as the benchwork would be subjected to two different sets of forces - one when resting in the operating position and one when lifted. Of course the use of foam (not used way back when the above mentioned article was written) would make such a project more doable than ever. Would love to see someone do one of these!
QUOTE: TomDiehl Posted: 03 Apr 2005, 21:25:10 Wayne seemed to hit the high points of this. Several considerations to add to what he said. The layout has to move up and down as a unit, so, for example, if you have a lift point on each corner, all four of the cables have to raise and lower in sync. The easiest way to do this is have all cables wind onto the same drum. Some manual winches have a gear reduction for lifting a heavier layout, or you can double the cables and add a counterweighting system. Don't forget to have stops at the top to keep the layout scenery and buildings from being crushed against the ceiling or joists. You may need to add side stops to prevent the layout from swaying with breezes that enter the garage when the door is open. The cables can even be detachable when the layout is down to get them out of the way. This is the type of thing that needs to be designed on the fly and always ready to modify. Don't be afraid to make changes to correct any problem you come across after the layout is built. It's almost impossible to anticipate every problem, even if you've built a layout like this before.
QUOTE: cuyama Posted: 03 Apr 2005, 21:49:30 There have been a few of these published over the years, including: The Midland Valley RR, hanging layout in 3 car garage Model Railroader, June 1977 page 52 This layout was mentioned and a similar similar layout idea with construction tips was covered in John Armstrong's book, "Creative Layout Design" (now out of print, published by Kalmbach). A smaller layout in a similar vein (also by John Armstrong) was: The Carlsbad, East Portal & Zenith RR, N scale 4x8 Model Railroader, April 1982 page 98 Article also published in "18 Tailor-Made Model Railroad Track Plans" (Armstrong), page 31 Article also published in The Classic Layout Designs of John Armstrong , page 56 The key is making the banchwork stiff enough to handle the stresses of being hoisted and a hoist scheme which keeps the thing level during raising and lowering. Counterweights such as bricks or blocks which may be added to balance the weight of the layout as track and scenery are added is also a good idea. Regards, Byron
QUOTE: ukguy Posted: -04 Apr 2005, 10:05:32 In stead of having the cable attached to the layout why not have 4 8' beams of say 6x2s running under the layout attached to the cables, this will prevent sagging as the layout wieght distribution will be even through the center of the layout as it will be supported be the beams. The beams would have eye bolts on the ends and the cables would have hooks so that when lowered into operating position the beams can be removed, stacked in the corner out of the way and the cables lifted back up out of sight. As to keepin the layout level during up/down + storage, maybe use chains fom each attachment point meeting at a common ring in the center so that when taught it forms a kind of pyramid effect over the layout, from this the one cable would go to the pully/winch, maybe a second for conterwieght. This way the layout will remain level, the chains are easily length adjustable and there is only one cable running over the pully/winch. I played with this idea for a while, as you may be able to tell, but decided on a counterbalanced fold up layout against one wall, the layout folds inwards so all scenery and details are hidded and protected when not in use and is counterbalanced by garage door opening springs, my layout is a double layered 8x6 with a 2x4 subframe under MDF, so it aint light, even before scenery was added, but I can raise and lower it easily with one hand and very little effort. Be prepared to change things midway through as hurdles appear, I even took mine appart at the end and rebuilt it completely due to a hinge being in the slightly wrong place. Its better to get it right before the scenery/track starts going on, much easier in the long run. Have fun & be safe, Karl.
QUOTE: rails5 Posted: 04 Apr 2005, 16:47:30 When we purchased our previous house in 1986, the seller had a layout in the back of the garage that used a simple pulley system to raise and lower it. The layout was about 5' x 10' and had eye bolts at each corner. To avoid having the middle of the layout's frame sag, he screwed thick-gauge L-shaped metal strip to the bottom of each structural piece of the wooden frame.
QUOTE: backpackingnn Posted: 04 Apr 2005, 23:08:20 When I was younger, my dad did the same involving pulleys and nylon rope. We had a temporary benchwork built for support when lowered which could be folded up. It wored well...until it got lowered at an angle and old buildings and loose scenery came off. So make sure you are able to lower it level all the time. have fun!