Question- HO Track and switches

[Anonymous]

What is the biggest diffrence between HO code 100 and Code 83 Track? I know the rail size on the Code 83 is smaller. Do trains run just as well on Code 83 as on Code 100. I have always used Atlas code 100 flex track on my layouts, but since I am building a new one, Code 83 is an option.

Any comments? Thanks, DON

[rrinker]

About the only thing that will not run on code 83 track is some older stuff with deeper than RP-25 flanges (old AHM/Rivarossi locos and cars, for example) and some of the European stuff, even current production. Athearn, P2K, Stewart, Bowser, etc. all works great on Code 83, and looks better to boot. Frieght cars with too big flanges that are worth keeping get replacement wheelsets (metal wheels are better than plastic anyway), and the two older Rivarossi locos that my father-in-law has, he is going to sell.

--Randy

[Anonymous]

I have another question I'd like to pose. I picked up 300' of code 100, steel flex track, in 3' sections. The price was too good to pass up. ($.30 each.) (A late Sunday afternoon train show price.) I'm thinking of using it for the main line on the new layout I'm building. The only problem is, I haven't used steel track since I was a kid,on my old 027x3 railer. Can anyone give me any advise. Am I screwing up. (Pretty good at that.)

William North

[lyctus]

Steel track is certainly a bit of a flash from the past, but if you maintain it with an anti corrosive /conductive enhancing lubricant from time to time, it should be servicable. Electrolube by Peco is one good product. There are probably others. Years ago, Tri-ang in England produced locos with a feature called Maghesion I think it was, which used a magnet rubbing on the drive wheels creating a magnetic field on the wheels which allegedly improved the adhesion, or weight on the rails, of the often too light model loco, which of course needed steel rails to work. There must be thousands of actual miles of steel model rails out there, but all a bit more expensive than 30cents a yard !

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by William North

I have another question I'd like to pose. I picked up 300' of code 100, steel flex track, in 3' sections. The price was too good to pass up. ($.30 each.) (A late Sunday afternoon train show price.) I'm thinking of using it for the main line on the new layout I'm building. The only problem is, I haven't used steel track since I was a kid,on my old 027x3 railer. Can anyone give me any advise. Am I screwing up. (Pretty good at that.) William North

Steel rail is better than brass rail. Nickel-Silver rail is best because the oxides on N-S conduct electricity. If you keep up with regular cleaning there shouldn't be a problem.
It's a good practice to solder feeder wires in the middle of each 3 foot section of track.

[Anonymous]

If you do not operate your layout regularly, and you live where humidity can be a problem, steel rail is subject to rusting. Rust on steel acts as an insulator and could be frustrating in the long run. Also, steel does not conduct electricity as well as one might suppose. As another has suggested, and I would make it more than a suggestion, do attach electrical feeder wires to every 3 foot length of steel rail. I am slowly replacing some old Atlas, fiber tied, code 100 steel rail. It is giving way to nickle silver rail. The only reason I am slow in removing the steel rail is that it is in a hidden staging area and is tough to access. I am replacing it with code 100 rail. All hidden rail on my layout is code 100. All exposed rail is code 70 nickle silver. Nickle silver is so far superior to any other rail now, or ever, available that it would be, in my opiniion, a good move to save the recently purchased steel rail until it becomes an artifact and you can resell it. I would just go ahead and invest in nickle silver rail right from the git go. Again, this is just my opinion.. It is your railroad and you make the decisions there.

Tom