Smoothing plaster cloth

[Anonymous]

I just started using Woodland Scenics plaster cloth and find it very difficult to get it completely smooth. They say "be sure to smooth it out especially on the roadbed", but even if I soak it for several minutes, I can not get it completely smooth. Does anyone have a method to get it smooth?
Thanks, Scott [:(]

[jwmurrayjr]

I think that it is difficult to "smooth" one layer of WS plaster cloth (and how "smooth" do you want it?) because there is not enough plaster to completely cover the cloth. The second layer will smooth easier. But with some practice you will be able to get it "smoother".

Also I don't put plaster cloth on the roadbed (or very seldom), but just right up to the edge of the roadbed.

I only soak the cloth in water (at room temp.) for a few seconds...any longer makes it more difficult to handle I think.

Practice is the answer I believe, like with most things.

After the cloth is painted and covered with other stuff (Like WS foam or sand) it will look fine.

Have fun.

[willy6]

I had the same problem, I went out and got DAP Patching Plaster, no problems now.

[selector]

I agree with Jim. Unless you have a very rough roadbed, you are probably just wasting $ laying plaster cloth under your rails. If you are using extruded foam, use a wire bru***o get your bed even, then sand paper block to refine it a bit. Truthfully, as long as you have no vertical kinks greater than about 1/4 degree from section-to-section (or join-to-join), you will necessarily anchor the track well when you finally ballast.

Keep the cloth for cliffs, rock faces, rock walls, to anchor/finish around tunnel portals, and to hide seams/gaps. Two layers is usually the minimum, staggered, and smoothing is not really desirable. Leave it as it is, with only the edges pressed down to lie flush with the previous layer or the foam/wood surface...you can smoothe these with a finger wet with water. Later, when you paint it light tan and add cover and trees, you will see that it looks just fine 'in the rough'.

When I dipped plaster cloth in water, I used a 9'X12" Pyrex cake pan (yes, She let me on the promise that it would sparkle when I was through). I literally grasped the two adjacent corners between thumb and forefinger, did a one-second dip, and that was enough to wet it thoroughly. Anymore manipulation than that, before I placed it where it was meant, and I ran into a ball of frustration. The other two corners below your grasp will somehow meet, and good luck getting them separated.

[Javern]

i buy the thicker paper towels and make my own plaster soup, dip the towels in.

[gmpullman]

Another handy "trick" is to use the woven drywall tape that comes in 2" wide rolls. It has a slightly sticky back and is really handy to use for contouring scenery. If you want you can use the WS plaster cloth over this or use the traditional towel dipped in plaster soup but the drywall tape adds a little strength and since it is an open weave it locks in the plaster real well. I use it at the edges of the roadbed because the adhesive on it sticks to the plywood and makes it easier to transition from roadbed to scenery...

[Anonymous]

Hi, Thanks to everyone for the support and ideas.
Scott[:)]