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PECO SWITCH MACHINES

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  • Member since
    February 2001
  • From: US
  • 506 posts
PECO SWITCH MACHINES
Posted by snowey on Sunday, March 6, 2005 12:51 AM
is it nessecary to insulate the soldering lugs on these, when you solder a wire onto them?[?]
"I have a message...Lt. Col....Henry Blakes plane...was shot down...over the Sea Of Japan...it spun in...there were no survivors".
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, March 6, 2005 12:09 PM
Not sure what you mean by insulate - do you mean as in clipping on a heatsink? I just crimp the wires in place then add some solder to make it stronger, have never had any problems. If you crimp the wires, then just heat the terminal while holding the solder against the top, it will be drawn in by capillary action and give you an excellent joint. Hope this helps!

  • Member since
    August 2001
  • From: NYS
  • 107 posts
Posted by MichaelWD on Sunday, March 6, 2005 6:03 PM
I just installed 2 of these switch machines. I found out that my power pack does not have enough juice to poiwer them. Someone told me a "snapper" capacitor discharge system will work. Is this true or am I wasting my money on it.
Thanks Mike Dickinson
  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Christchurch New Zealand
  • 1,525 posts
Posted by NZRMac on Sunday, March 6, 2005 6:19 PM
I use a capacitor discharge unit it saves the coil from a burnout. You only need one for the whole layout.

Ken.
  • Member since
    August 2001
  • From: NYS
  • 107 posts
Posted by MichaelWD on Monday, March 7, 2005 6:47 AM
In the instructions it suggest to use 16v as a power supply . Will the snapper be able to handle this. how will 16v effect the Atlas switch machines that are on the rest of the layout
Thanks Mike Dickinson
  • Member since
    February 2002
  • From: Reading, PA
  • 30,002 posts
Posted by rrinker on Monday, March 7, 2005 8:24 AM
The Snapper or a circuit like it will be perfectly fine. The operation of your Atlas switches will also improve. Put the CD supply between your power pack and ALL twin coil turnout controls, Atlas and Peco. Do NOT connect Tortoise switch motors to such a supply.
I have a capacitor discharge supply I built many years ago when i was in N scale (HO now), and N scale switch motors (Atlas) are MUCH more delicate than HO ones. Once I installed the CD supply, I never gain had a coil burn out, and the switches threw each and every time. Plus the building lights, run off the same power pack (different one controlled my trains) didn't dim when I threw a switch like they did before.

--Randy

Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

  • Member since
    August 2001
  • From: NYS
  • 107 posts
Posted by MichaelWD on Monday, March 7, 2005 4:10 PM
Thanks for the information. I was worried that the CD would not work for both types of switch machines
Mike Dickinson
  • Member since
    June 2004
  • From: Mb. Canada
  • 3 posts
Posted by johnd on Tuesday, March 8, 2005 9:51 PM
I have soldered wire to HO railjoiners and fit the railjoiner onto the Peco motor.
No soldering on the pricey Peco motor. Seems to work fine.
  • Member since
    September 2002
  • From: Upstate
  • 47 posts
Posted by Bennekers on Wednesday, March 9, 2005 10:12 PM
In my experience PECO switch machines are indestructible. I abused them badly, they got wet, then corroded. I am not good at soldering either, but they still work.
dutchtrain
  • Member since
    November 2002
  • From: Winnipeg, Manitoba
  • 1,317 posts
Posted by Seamonster on Friday, March 11, 2005 8:12 AM
I have to agree with Bennekers that Peco switch machines are indestructible. Our basement got flooded years ago and a bunch of model RR stuff that I had stored near the floor went for a swim (along with a heck of a lot of other stuff!). The Peco switch machines have rust on them but they still work. They may be big and clunky but that's what makes them industructible and dependable. I solder 3 wires to them, about 2-3" long and attach a terminal strip to their ends. That becomes a permanent part of the switch machine and I attach the layout wiring to the terminal strip.
...Bob

..... Bob

Beam me up, Scotty, there's no intelligent life down here. (Captain Kirk)

I reject your reality and substitute my own. (Adam Savage)

Resistance is not futile--it is voltage divided by current.

  • Member since
    September 2002
  • From: Upstate
  • 47 posts
Posted by Bennekers on Saturday, March 12, 2005 5:12 AM
Bob,

What kind of terminal strip?
dutchtrain
  • Member since
    November 2002
  • From: Winnipeg, Manitoba
  • 1,317 posts
Posted by Seamonster on Sunday, March 13, 2005 10:55 AM
I use a 3-lug solder terminal strip. One of the terminals is extended out to form a mounting lug. Since I'm screwing them into wood, that doesn't matter. I also use them to terminate the track feed wires coming down through the layout. I bought a bag of them somewhere a long time ago. I haven't been able to find that kind anywhere lately, so I'm not sure what I'll do when I run out. Could use screw type strips, but that's *much* more expensive. R.S. and others sell "European" type screw strips which can be cut apart into shorter lengths.
...Bob

..... Bob

Beam me up, Scotty, there's no intelligent life down here. (Captain Kirk)

I reject your reality and substitute my own. (Adam Savage)

Resistance is not futile--it is voltage divided by current.

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