Priming and painting question

[Anonymous]

For the downtown area of my HO layout I'm thinking of adding two DPM kits, "Pam's Pet Shop" and "The Walker Building". Both kits' walls are molded in an off-white color, so I'd like to paint them a reddish-brown, and the windows for both kits come molded in a reddish-orange. Well, the problem I've encountered using Polly Scale paints when painting over other colors is that the underlying color still manages to show through in spots, no matter how many coats I apply.

Here's an example: I bought the Walthers kit, "Jim's Repair Shop", and the foundation and steps come molded in reddish-orange, so I painted these in Polly Scale "Concrete". I applied a few coats but on the steps the underlying color can still be seen in spots. These have gotten three coats. The foundation looks fine and covered well with two coats. So I'm a little concerned that on the DPM kits the windows won't cover well and still show the reddish-orange color in spots. I don't want that! I'm not too concerned with the walls because my experience with painting walls is that they seem to cover well with about two coats. Plus weathering and filling in the mortar lines will take care of some imperfections.

So, is the problem I'm encountering because I need to spray a coat of primer on first before I paint or what? I haven't applied primer in the past. Thanks for any information you can provide! I'd really like to add these two buildings to my layout (although Pam's Pet Shop will be named something else! Maybe a tavern since my layout lacks one of those right now).

[Anonymous]

with painting plastic I would suggest that you always use primer... I don't know many specific brands that people here use but when I was into miniture wargaming the manufacturer of the models had thier own paint line which included a MATT Finnish as well as different colors of primer.

the Company name is Citidel minitures based out of the UK but have many of thier own shops here in the us called Games Workshop.... most hobby shops carry thier paints as well.

[Anonymous]

I was talking with Matt over at gothamcitysub.com about working with those DPM kits because his buildings look pretty good...here's what he had to say:

"Some of the corners on the DPM pieces are angled and you'll need to sand them flat so that when you join them, they come together at a perfect 90 degree angle. Some parts also have a few flash circles on the surface you'll need to glue onto. You'll want to file these off too, as your parts won't sit flat if you don't. You can use regular CA glue like testors, but it's easiest to pour a little puddle of glue on a piece of scrap paper and then apply a very fine amount to the model using a toothpick. This will keep glue from oozing out of your joints. Testors also sells a bottle of glue with a very fine tip on it - this works well.

Painting- you'll want to paint first while the parts are flat. Paint the window frames first and then glue them in - this is WAY easier than trying to paint them after you've installed them (done that...). This sounds crazy, but you can get great brick color by spray painting all the pieces with red oxide primer or Adobe spray paint. If you spray a few very light coats, the paint dries fast and it's very easy, quick and cheap."

[Anonymous]

I agree with those who say priming is the key. I have several DPM (and other) plastic kits on my layout. All were primed (Testor's or Krylon Gray), followed by Polly S paints and I had no problem with coverage, regardless of the plastic color to start and the color of paint being used.

Also agree about painting before assembly - the voice of experience here.

[Anonymous]

I definately planned on painting the windows and the walls laying flat before assembly.

What are flash circles??? I'm a little confused here, though, as actionplant says I'll need to glue onto them but then says I'll want to file them off, as the parts won't sit flat if I don't. (?) Can someone explain this?

[Anonymous]

flash circles are little circles where the ejector pin kick the plastic out of the mold. depending where they are you may need to fill them with putty and file them flu***o make the suface look nice. Priming is a good idea but before i prime i always wa***he parts with dish washing liquid before i prime to make sure the mold releasing agent is totally gone.