Track gaps vs. insulated joiners

[Anonymous]

Just wondering what isolation (electrical) technique most modelers prefer---using insulated rail joiners or gaps in the track? Which technique would be less likely to interfere with or disrupt train cars passing over the areas?

[Jacktal]

Both methods are good so I use both.During tracklaying,I install insulated joiners to make sure that my tracks align perfectly.I model N scale and use Atlas yellow insulated joiners,but since I don't really like the looks,I remove them after my trackwork is rock steady.This way I obtain very nice joints all the time.

[johncolley]

I use about .020 plastic at the joints while laying then take it out and fill the gap wit gel type crazy glue. After a day or so i go back and file it to shape, especially the top and inside surface of the railhead. I am also using this technique on the old style turnouts I am making DCC friendly.

[selector]

Johncolley, I would like to clean up the clacketty-clack of my newly-laid track. i like your idea of using a gap filler. Would you tell me the name of the product, the gel CA?

Thanks in advance.

[Anonymous]

I use the Atlas clear plastic joiners in N scale; works great. I'm slightly apprehensive about installing gaps in N for fear of derailment, Though on my old HO layout I used them in crossovers and they worked just fine.

[Jacktal]

Fearing about gaps in N scale trackwork is justified only if the tracks aren't perfectly aligned in both axis (vert/horiz).The only way a gap could cause a derailment on well laid tracks would be if it is too wide,so that wheels have a chance to drop in a little then jump out of the gap so that it jumps off the railhead.Very small gaps (.010 in. or so) don't hurt and are even desirable to allow for track expansion.As for the "clacketty-clack" sound,it may be offendable to some while others do create them willingly to obtain more prototypical sound,so this is a matter of personal taste.

[selector]

Thanks for your comment, Jacktal. I agree that some wheel clacking is desirable to make it all 'right'. I guess I should have said that some of my gaps are stand-outs in terms of noise and obvious spacing.

I used EZ track, with some flextrack necessary for difficult sections (across a slightly curved trestle, for example), and my overall configuration required some minor tweaking of EZ Track curves to the point where some gaps were in the 3/32" range on one side of the join. I wouldn't mind quietening these and sparing the wheels/possible derailments.

[RedSkin]

Well today I'm about to begin putting some gaps in as I lay my track I was thinking about useing an old techic I had read about in an MR. That being to use a piece of plastic from the container that shaving razors come in as the material and use some CA to secure it in and then file to shape. The clear plastic wouldn't be very noticeable after the installation and the track was ballasted I think.
Brad

[johncolley]

Selector, check your local hardware or building supply such as Homer D. Poe. You will see 2 types of crazy glue on the display. The gel will say so right on the package. It is just a bit thicker than the liquid regular crazy glue. Just squeeze a small blob into the joint and leave it for a day. When it has hardened, file it to shape. BTW I find a small "Points" file is great for getting in there especially on a curve or where there are guardrails close by the gap.

[mikebonellisr]

To hold my HO rail in place where I have cut gaps,I use J B weld. I encapulsate (?) the rail at the joint,then file and sand the blob when it's dry.Makes a very strong joint

[siberianmo]

My layout uses insulated rail joiners as I operate my three main lines and extensive passenger yard with common rail wiring (the old fashioned way!). I only have one place that has a "self-inflicted" gap and that happened way after my track was permanently put down and I decided to isolate a bit more of a siding than had originally been planned. I don't like the gap - but it really is hard to see. One day I'll use a filler - just so that I KNOW ..........

For JohnColley: A great tip and I plan to use it on my HO pike. I have an extensive layout with Bachmann's not-so-easy track (sorry, just had to get that in!). No matter how hard I tried when the track was put down, the gaps are there. The layout is as complete (trackwise) as it can get with over 500 pieces installed. I have used Woodland Scenics ballast over the cheezy looking roadbed that comes with the track and it looks great (to me and others who have visited my Can-Am trainroom). Anyway - thanx again.

For mikebonellisr: Is J B weld a conductor of electricity? Sounds like a dumb question, but I would like to know. Just seeing the word, "weld," kinda makes me think of metal.

Thanx!

[selector]

JohnColley, thanks for getting back. I'll try this when I get to the nit-picky stage (after I've been runing the trains and finding the most likely derail points.) You were a help.

Siberianmo, I, too, have ballasted my EZ Track, but mostly with cleaned beach sand. Some might quibble with the overlarge ballast that makes the whole track seem a bit out of proportion, but it looks fairly good, I agree. Sure as heck better than the pastic bed.

[howmus]

For block control in DC I used the clear insulated track joiners. They were easy to use and not very noticable when the track has been ballasted and scenery is done (like I ever have really gotten to that stage). I hated the old yellow insulated joiners that I used 20 years ago as they leap out at you to say, "Look I'm here!" I have seen clear insulated joiners in N, HO, and O so I know they exist. I use the Atlas code 83 clear ones between reversing sections and will use them between Booster Districts.

[mikebonellisr]

siberianmo....J B Weid is not conductive(though I would have thought so too) I have used it on about 26 places without any problems,and when dressed properly It does'nt even "click" when wheels pass over it.

[siberianmo]

Thanx, Mike!

For selector:

Someone informed me that the ballast I used was "not to scale." Well, rather than tell the guy to take a long walk on a short pier, I let it go. One of the major reasons why I probably will never affiliate with a model RR club is that I cannot handle the "rivet counters"of the world. That simply isn't me - yesterday, today or hopefully - tomorrow. So - if the ballasting job satisifies YOU - then your job is complete!

[selector]

Thank-you, Siberianmo. You are absolutely right; if you can't please yourself, don't count on pleasing others!

It's meant to be a fun pass-time, not a way of looking for approval. And, I like the way my layout looks. Bet you like yours, too.

Cheers.

[TBat55]

I've heard of using a styrene piece glued in an then shaped. I don't know the thickness of the styrene but it should equal to the gap size from a Dremel cutoff disk.

Does anybody make PLASTIC RAILS in HO?

A better cross-sectional profile of the plastic piece would save work after the gap is filled. I try to avoid filing or roughing up the rail surface.

[siberianmo]

selector

QUOTE: Thank-you, Siberianmo. You are absolutely right; if you can't please yourself, don't count on pleasing others!

It's meant to be a fun pass-time, not a way of looking for approval. And, I like the way my layout looks. Bet you like yours, too.

Cheers.

Thanx for the vote of confidence .... I know there are more than two of us who share these thoughts.

Don't know if you're interested - but you may wi***o check out a discussion topic on tbe Trains magazine forum under Railroads - it's called CANADIAN PASSENGER RAILROADS - let's talk!

Hope to see you there!

[mike33469]

Thanks to this thread I've just used JB Weld on a few gaps between rails, the stuff works great.

[TomDiehl]

This is a bit off topic, but related to the cut and fill type gaps. When I get to the filing stage, I use an old style emery board instead of a file. You can pick these up in an 8 or 10 pack at the dollar store. I've found the abrasive on them cuts the plastic, epoxy and hardened superglue much faster than it does the metal rail. And the ones I've seen are two sided, with different grits on each side, so you have a coarse and fine sander on one board. Plus, they're cheap and disposable.