Spacing between Double track?

[Anonymous]

I'm building a new HO layout after almost 3 years (move, no space). Doing a double tracked main line in an over/under modified dogbone configuration. Does anyone have guidelines for prototypical spacing between tracks? How much should this be increased in curves (24' min radius)?
I had about an inch between tracks on my old layout and it looked like way too much space.
Thanks

[ukguy]

I dunno about prototypical gon, but as long as my trains pass each other without touching I am happy, [:D] I used the woodlandscenics foam roadbed (to my regret) and all I basically did was but them up to each other which gave me a good clearance on the straight. take a look at the pics in my signature web link to view. I too have a double mainline.
Take care and have fun.

[Anonymous]

HO is recommended as 2" on strights and min of 2 1/2" on curves, this is on center, meaning 2" from center of track A to center ogf Tack b, so about an 1" would be between the inside rails.

take the curves part as a reccomendation and test your stock before commiting to the minimum distance.

[rrinker]

DEFINITELY test your rolling stock before permenantly fastening anything. I'm glad I did. I figured 2 1/2" seperation with 30" and 32.5" radius curves would be fine for anything. But it doesn;t work out so well for full length 80' passenger cars. I needed to revise the plan and widen the spacing a bit to get everything to pass without hitting.

ANd ukguy, why the regret with the WS foam roadbed? I'm using the stuff and I LOVE it. The 24' rolls especially come in handy, fewer gaps, smoother running.

--Randy

[ukguy]

Maybe I did it wrong but when I fastened down the track I found it hard to keep it level, it was my first time with this stuff and I kept hitting the pins in too far, bending the ties down into the foam, it just caused me a headache. next time I would probably just glue it down using caulk as I have found out through reading here MANY people do. Just another thing to chalk up to experience I guess.
As this rapidly developed into my 'learning layout' due to much trial and alot of error I will take what I learned to my next layout. But I have got to finish some basic learning first using this layout. I am currently experimenting with making my own ground foam/foliage, next will come pouring the 'water' in my flowing river and then I need to relay some track AGAIN! Oh well, its all fun and lots of thanks to all the contributers here.
Be safe,
Karl.

[rrinker]

Ah - yes, indeed try the caulk next time. That's what I'm using. If you have your materials prepared, I think you can lay track with caulk even faster thannailign it down. The WS bed is softer than cork, but if you drive the nails in too hard on cork the same thing happens.

--Randy

[Anonymous]

ukguy, if you are not familiar with "Micro Mart," it is a mail order company that issues their ctalogs quarterly. There are tools listed specifically for M.R.'s and some are very helpful. The old saying: "The right tool for the right job," surely applies in building a layout. The Catalog is free and prices cheaper than L.H.S. So far, I have been very satisfied with tools, delivery and courtesy from these people. Just a thought for making life a little easier while laying track, etc. Best of luck.

[Anonymous]

Check out John Armstrong's book on Track Planning. Great charts for track spacing and assorted other track planning and design issues. It is a really good resource book for any modeler.
Good luck.

[Anonymous]

gonfishin, I am using 49-1/2 " radius on my inside mailine and spaced 2-1/2" from dead-center-to-dead-center to the outside line (parallel). My 80' and 85' coaches (with diaphragms) barely clear each other in passing. With 24" radii, I would definitly "eyeball" the clearances on the curves using your longest cars. The 2" rule on straight should work but you may want to reach out to 3" (+) d.c.-to-d.c.on curves to accomodate the "overhang" on longer stock. Best of luck.

[TBat55]

I used 2-3/16" for Walther's double track truss bridge (shown below) because that's what the bridge kit specifies. On curves I went with 2-1/2" for overhang on 18"R. If I used 2-1/2" at the bridge I think some grab irons might have broken off.

http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/933-3012

[Anonymous]

TBat55, it isn't likely that you would "lose grab irons" at 2-1/2" if you didn't lose them at 2-3/16" [at the bridge- -straight track]. Do you mean 2-3/16" on the curves? Your layout shows great skill and planning. Love to see more pics in the near future. Have a happy.

[TBat55]

Thank you Ted

I have a BLI Hudson that has grab railings in the very front above the pilot that come very close to tunnel portals and bridges near curves. The boiler overhangs the front truck. The NMRA gage clears. Don't know if 2-1/2" would really cause a problem on the Walthers truss, just wanted to point out another clearance detail for gonfishin to consider.

I just learned to post images a week or two ago, mostly to Sunday Photo Fun. Here goes:

[Anonymous]

Here's a reference picture, east side of Hudson River line, upstate NY. I measured the inside rail center distance to be pretty close to 1.5 times the center to center distance of rails of one of the tracks. Doing this in N, I needed to cut the inside bevel off of WS roadbed so there wasn't so much roadbed extending out to either side.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v718/mhackett/railroad/DCP_2595.jpg

Mike

[Anonymous]

TBat55, beautiful work, congratulations.

[Anonymous]

Hi guys,

I'm also another newbie and am also starting a new layout working with my 9 year old son. It will also be a double main line & was wondering the same thing about the track spacing. Thanks for the info. I hope I'm not going too far off topic with this question (pls forgive me if I am), but Randy mentioned using caulk to lay track, which I've read on several other posts. I went by Home Depot today to pick up several tubes, and herein lies my problem...they have every conceiveable brand, color, type, etc...overwhelming!!
I looked on the tubes to see if they are compatible with foam (pink stuff) and none of them really said one way or the other. I don't want to make the mistake of getting the wrong stuff and eating away at the foam. What brand/type of caulk do you recommend?

Thanks again for all the help on this forum. You guys are great!!

Jamie

[ukguy]

Thanks for the help and info rrinker & ted.d.kramer. and everybody else.

be safe
Karl.

[Anonymous]

I'm in the process of building a new layout w/ double track mainline. The outside track has a 30" radius, the inner, 27" I'm using 3" spacing center-to center throughout the mainline. The reason for this is IF I ever (ha) get a derailment, it'll be much easier to get my 1:1 finger in between the offending rolling stock! It looks fine to me, even though it's a bit further a part than "scale."

Matt