Building benchwork

[electrolove]

I'm planning my benchwork and have some questions.

Is 1 x 4 lumber the right size for building the benchwork? I also wonder what distance is recommended between them?

What are the different benchwork types called? I know that one is called L-girder but that is not the type I want to build.

Maybe someone can point me to some info on the net about this? I don't need much info, just some basic stuff...

[dehusman]

1x4 are fine.

Another type of benchwork is called "open grid". You make a series of sections and then bolt them together to form the layout. Typically the majority of the sections are a common size such as 2x4 or 2x6. I have built layouts with sections that range from 18 in x 72 in, 2x6 ft and 30 in x 72 in. The sections then have cross pieces every 16-24 in. You can then attach plywood directly to the top or attach risers to the cross pieces just like L-girder construction. At Corners I have made a 5 sided piece that is like a 3 foot square with one corner clipped off. If you use standard sized sections, open grid bench work is very good for someone who moves alot because the sections can be placed with the "tops" facing each other and then thin plywood or masonite attached to the edges making a secure "crate" to ship the railroad.

Dave H.

[Anonymous]

Buy this book http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0890242895/102-3474751-4368966

[rrinker]

I've always thought L-Girder to be neat, but a waste of wood. One of the primary reasons for using L-girder has always been that it is a lot easier for people who are not professional carpenters, as compared to building grid benchwork where you need to get the corner square and the cross pieces have to be sized right.
Well, I'm no professional, but I can read a tape measure and I can generally get the saw to cut on the proper side of the line. I built up my four grid boxes and tey all came out square with straight sides. It's really not hard at all. Pretty minimalist in my tools, too, but I don't think I'd build l-girder without the same things anyway - carpenter's square, tape measure, cordless drill, and, for those first sections, a hand saw. Future expansion will go faster - we now have a power miter saw. The absolute MOST useful tool I have is a right-angle clamp. I may pick up more for the expansion so I can do all 4 corners at once, but one at a time works fine too.

--Randy

[jkeaton]

Another reason for using L-girder is if you are working with an irregularly shaped space, or want or need the front edge of your benchwork to not be a straight line. Open grid is great if you have a square or rectangular space - but if you have a different size of space, or need a curve, then L-girder is helpful. I don't see that it uses much more or less wood than open grid - it just uses it differently, and more flexibly. Its chief draw back is that you have more vertical height used up by your framing.

I second Gary's suggestion to buy the latest edition of Linn Westcott's book.

Jim

[northern_blues]

I agree with jkeaton. If I had more space, I'd probably use open grid. But as it is, my layout must fit into a 8' X 16' space in an old basement, with irrregular walls, very few right angles, etc. I have nothing but curves and it is the only way I can figure to get the curves right is to build the L-girders (at a low enough height that I am not using more vertical height as a result), topped by 1X3 joists that I do not cut until I have laid out the curves on the joists and then cut with a circular saw.

I don't think L-girders use more wood, really. I do think you can overbuild using L-girders. 3X4 girder (3 inch top screwed and glued to 4 inch vertical support) is complete overkill.

[cwclark]

I built "L" girder benchwork..i like it because you can raise and lower the track with it and install fascia to it with little carpentry work to install it...check out my webshots picture album...the next 10 to 20 pictures explain how to build it...click the right arrow button for more pictures.... http://community.webshots.com/photo/137793353/143341248VlGagO ....Chuck

[TBat55]

I used open grid because I wanted several modules bolted together in case I move.
Here's 3 modules joined (notice the carriage bolts). Holes in the 1x4's are for wires.



This shows a leg in the background made from 1x4 screwed to 1x3 (looks like two 1x3s). On the bottom is 1 of 4 hinged levers with a caster so I can lift & move the layout away from the wall.


Don't know if I'll use fascia. All wood is primed and painted.


I used 1/2" plywood (scraps from a roof job) and 1/2" Homasote so the wire in the turnout switch machines fits (1" max for Tortoise)

[Anonymous]

I recently completed the benchwork for my new layout. I used Wescott's book as a guide. I ended up with a combination of L-girder and open-grid. Also, I used both "cookie-cutter" and table top for the roadbed, etc.

Good luck finding decent lumber! I went to the local home center for my wood. It took me over an hour to find enough straignt materila. Most was good only if I wanted to build hockey sticks or rocking horses! I ended up using 2x4s instead of 1x3s and 1x4s for the maind supports and joists. It's overkill but it certainly supports my 220lb. frame while working on it.

I found that is a huge problem. When I put an addition on my deck the past summer, I went to a reputable lumber yard. It was sad how long it took to fing straight, useable boards. Recently, I needed two (2) 2x4s for another project. No lie, I had to dig through 123 studs to find two useable ones!!! And this stuff was supposed to be "select choice." Ha!

There's a MRR article somewhere re: using steel studs instead of wood. You may want to look into that. Also, David barrow of MRR did an articel or two on his "dominoes" style of modualr/open grid work.

[electrolove]

Very nice to see some pictures, I will try 1x4 for my benchwork...

QUOTE: Originally posted by TBat55

I used open grid because I wanted several modules bolted together in case I move.
Here's 3 modules joined (notice the carriage bolts). Holes in the 1x4's are for wires.



This shows a leg in the background made from 1x4 screwed to 1x3 (looks like two 1x3s). On the bottom is 1 of 4 hinged levers with a caster so I can lift & move the layout away from the wall.


Don't know if I'll use fascia. All wood is primed and painted.


I used 1/2" plywood (scraps from a roof job) and 1/2" Homasote so the wire in the turnout switch machines fits (1" max for Tortoise)

[johnkruse]

You might want to look into ripping those 1x4s from a sheet of 3/4" plywood. They will be a lot straighter than 1x4s that I've seen.

[TBat55]

Here's my solution to moving my layout on rare occasions. There are now 4 of these along one side of my 5'x9' sectional.

starting position, held up by velcro


lowered position


another view


hinge pin removed; heavy duty leveling foot from Woodcraft with lip


hole to remove hinge pin


my only completed scene so far; a mix of steam and diesel because I like both




Athearn on top, BLI's on bottom


up next

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by gsetter

Buy this book http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0890242895/102-3474751-4368966

Agreed, get this book, learn what there is and use what you think fits your needs.