control panel

[foxtrackin]

When builting a control panel for use with dcc. What materials do you built it out of? What all do you try to include on it and how do you lay it out? Thanks

[Big_Boy_4005]

If you are using DCC, you have pretty much eliminated the need for block switches which are a traditional component of control panels. Turnout controls are going to be the main focus. You may want a track diagram and some track occupancy indicator lights. Plywood, masonite, sheet metal, and even plexiglass could be used. Some materials are easier to work with than others. Consider material thickness when chooisng electrical components to be mounted.

How big and how complex is your layout?

[foxtrackin]

I am in ho scale. 52'x14' doing the NKP in central Indiana with a large yard. Several turnouts over 100, Using tortoise switch machines and digitrax with radio control throttle. Hope to have detection for both occupancy and signals. Will in time try to control the layout by computer. I want to try to be able to turn power off to some of the tracks in the engine terminal. As I will have several engines stored there. So I am doing several things and was just wondering what I should do on the control panel. thanks

[Big_Boy_4005]

A layout that large may need multiple panels, though many could be small. I suspect that you will be walking around following your trains. For large layouts it works well to have the local controls near each town. Sometimes building them right into the fascia is the best solution.

Definately one for the yard turnouts. You are correct to want to have some way to turn power off on some of the tracks in an engine service area.

I have been working on building a similarly large layout, with similar goals and features. When I boil it all down, I don't think I will be having a lot need for control panels. I too am planning to use a computer with CMRI to handle mainline turnouts, detection, and signaling.

Most of the non mainline turnouts will be some kind of ground throw, or in the case of those that aren't within easy reach, a choke cable type throw.

Keep in mind that panel locations should be convenient for the parts of the layout they control. If you had a 20' long double ended yard, would you place a single panel in the center for your turnouts, or would you put a smaller panel on each end? It really depends on how you plan to operate.

I thought of another material that I like, and that is Formica or a similar counter top laminate. Very clean and durable. Black looks sharp.

It is always cool to have a long schematic of the mainline to display your occupancy indicator lights. Keep in mind, that your mainline and or any major branch lines are the only tracks that need occupancy detection.

[TBat55]

Consider if you want to mount the DCC command station directly onto the control panel. I mounted my Zephyr directly on the control panel using foam tape. Yesterday I had to remove it . I'm glad I coated the control panel with clear spray (to protect the track diagram). No marks or paint removal.
I used aircraft plywood, tape-and-paint schematic, flush red/green LEDs (Radio Shack), and mini-toggle switches for turnouts.

[howmus]

This site has pretty much everything there is to know about wiring for DCC. What is needed and what goes where. What you need and how you set it up will also depend on the DCC system you use.

http://www.wiringfordcc.com/

Big_Boy_4005 has said just about everything else you need to consider.

[cwclark]

I build mine out of 1/4" hardboard with hinges mounted to the benchwork...I spray paint it white or light gray and let it dry a few days...I then take 1/4" masking tape (Got it at Office Depot) and tape the layout schematic over the white or light gray painted board... (double check it..there's always that one route that's not right on the schematic diagram)...once the schematic is taped to the board, I'll paint the entire board black,(or your favorite dark color), let it dry then remove the tape with a hobby knife and wahlaa!...A control panel diagram...I then add the DP/DT switches to the diagram by drilling them out to fit at the appropriate locations on the diagram, install them and wire them...chuck

[bpickering]

I've got a related question, prompted by Tbat55's comment about Foam Tape.

I've got my control panel about 3/4 completed, very similar to how CWClark recommended, although I'm doing green main color over yellow track schematic. Just drilled holes for the turnout control pushbuttons last night, I still need to add a DPDT switch between the DC power pack & DCC command station*.

Since this layout is intended to be very portable, I'm trying to make the control panel portion a removable section. Power to track & accessories will be connected to the layout by four-pin power connectors (similar to what you connect computer hard-disks & CD-ROM), while the turnout controls will be connected by DB-25 connectors (similar to a printer connector at the computer end). This also should have the advantage that, by having the same four-pin power connector on my test track in the workshop, it's easy to switch both the power packs between the layout and the test track.

The control panel is mounted, angled slightly from vertical, at the center of a 2'-long 1x8, with the intent of having the DC powerpack and DCC command station mounted to the 1x8 as well, so that the whole thing can be moved without undoing any connection.

However... anyone have a good suggestion on how to hold the DC powerpack and DCC command station (Digitrax DB-150) onto the assembly? I considered foam tape, but both units are on rubber "feet", so getting firm physical contact would be a little tough, and there's the cleanup if I want to move anything. I'm currently trying to think of an easily-available material I could use to strap them down- something slightly elastic? If I had any, I might use strips of an old bicycle innertube, or while writing this I just flashed on some relatively small bungie-cords I've got at home.

Any other suggestions?

Brian Pickering

* Seems like overkill, but first of all, most of my locos are not decoder-equipped right now. Second, my four-year-old already knows how to use the DC powerpack, and I suspect the learning curve for the Digitrax DT-400 is just a little steep for him! [:D]

[Anonymous]

The bunge cords might work. If not, look for some long wire ties at Home Depot. They are cheap and you can always cut them if you need to move either or both of the boxes.

[rrinker]

Brian,

Just curious, what pushbuttons are you using to turnout control, and what thickness is your panel? Poking throught he Mouser and Jameco catalogs, most small pushbuttons seem to only fit up to a 1/8" thick panel, and that's with removing the lockwasher.
As for the DB150 - that should probably sit on a small shelf under the layout, not on top of the control panel. As for your DC pack - if it has any sort of indentations onthe bottom where the 'feet' are, you could drive in a pair of screws spaced to fit into feet - leave the heads sticking out, I mean. Don't drive them up from the bottom and leave the points out [:D]. This will keep the pack from sliding downt he panel. Then use some wire tires to wrap around in two places, somewhere near the top, and somewhere near the bottom, where it doesn't interfere with the controls. You probably won't find any wire ties long enough for this. Just hook 2 or more together as needed.

--Randy

[TBat55]

To mount my DCS-50 (with rubber feet) I used 2 layers of foam tape in 4 places about 1" long: