Securing flex track to foam

[docb]

Any input on the best way to secure flex track directly to 2 inch pink foam. Specifically my concerns would be the curved portions of my layout and how to keep the tracks in the shape I need them to stay.

[Anonymous]

docb; I'm not the most experienced modeler, by any means, but I think you could use Liquid Nails (a building material caulk) without any worries about attacking the foam board. It does take some time to set up but if you weight the track down in the position you desire it should work out nicely. It's not too expensive (I feel) and a little goes a long way. Good Luck!

[Anonymous]

Using push pins through the nail holes is often more effective at holding the track in place while whatever adhesive you use bonds the two together.

[2021]

You can go directly on foam, but I would advise painting the foam your base color first so the pink doesn't show thru when you have slightly uncovered areas.
Ron K.

[orsonroy]

Liquid Nails will work, but it's not the best option. I've used wood glue, white glue, silicone and latex caulk, rubber cement, carpet tape, foam tape, and spray mount to glue down track, and I prefer caulk (either does just fine). I lay a 3/8" wide bead down the track centerline, smear it to a THIN layer with a trowel, and add the track. I don't glue down switches. I hold the track down with pushpins until the caulk is dry (about 1-2 hours). The caulk provides a great bond, is VERY inexpensive (less than $2 a tube) and goes a LONG way (I laid 150 feet of track over a weekend with two tubes, and had some left over!). The caulk also provides a nice springy layer between the foam and the track which helps dampen the drum effect foam tends to have (it amplifies sound from the motor).

Whatever you do, DO NOT use spray mount or any double sided tapes. They DO NOT work, except VERY temporarily.

[canazar]

If you do use liquid nails, which dries quick, make sure you get the stuff that is foam safe. Otherwise, the regular stuff will eat the foam. ( I learned the hard way) They make I think 3 or 4 different vartions. it will say on the package. Use as was describd above with the caulk, but will dry and get sticky with in minuttes. Short working time, but you can go fast. Atlas track nails work great. to keep it moveing, maybe some food cans on top for pressing.

On a side note. I have been running track just nailed to the foam now for almost 4 months. I am building a large industrail section andI keep adding switches and more stops. But, I wanted to start running so i have been nailing down "temporaliy" until I get everything I want. Plus, I cantmake up my mind so it has allowed me to expeirment with configurations. It will hold with care quite well. Plus, if yo are goign to ballast it, the glue and ballast will add alot fo grip too, making it veryu secure as well.

Hope that helps,
Best Regards
John Kanicsar

[scole100]

Do not use silicone caulk. Once it is dry, nothing will stick to it, including paint and ballast. The best thing I have found is acrylic adhesive caulk. It is clear and will hold very well. It is also paintable. I would also advise like Ron K. did, paint the foam before you lay track.

[orsonroy]

QUOTE: Originally posted by scole100

Do not use silicone caulk. Once it is dry, nothing will stick to it, including paint and ballast. The best thing I have found is acrylic adhesive caulk. It is clear and will hold very well. It is also paintable. I would also advise like Ron K. did, paint the foam before you lay track.

Funny, my ballast is sticking to the silicone caulk I used to lay track just fine...

[Anonymous]

I just got through with my first run after laying out my track and pinning it to the foam. I used my wife's "straight pins" from her sewing table, worked great! The ride is a little bumpy and the engine doesn't pull a cars very well in certain spots, but I thought I'd do the "fine" tuning after I put my cork roadbed down. Which brings me to my question...


I'm ready to pull up my track and glue down the roadbed. Is there a way to "soften up" the cork so that it goes around the curves a little better. My said to soak the cork in hot water, but I didn't like that idea.

BTW, docb, are you going to use roadbed?

This is my 1st "real" layout, I've read alot magazines and watched a couple of videos... I hope it helps.

TIA
scada

[rrinker]

In the past, when I've used cork, I had no trouble curving it smoothly to an 18" radius in HO, or the N scale cork to the 11" radius I used on my last N scale layout. I'm using Woodland Scenic foam roadbed now, on a larger layout with 32" radius on the main, although I have a few sidings down to 24", and it has gone down very smoothly so far.

--Randy

[canazar]

second Randy's thoughts. I had no trouble bending and laying the cork Granted on some tight corners, it got bit tricky. Just hold and work a few times and will hold the curve. I never had to mess with water. Goog luck..

Best Regards
John Kanicsar

[Leon Silverman]

The hot water soak is recommended for curving the unslotted homabed (homsote) roadbed, not cork.

[orsonroy]

One thing you didn't mention doing - sanding the top of the cork smooth. You'd be surprised at how much of a difference it makes! That itty bitty ridge on the edges of the cork from where you split the pieces will throw your track all over the place, ruining performance.