My younger brother recently passed away and he gave me a lot of track and trains, some were mine from late 50's into mid 60's and I had a lot of track and trains that had been boxed up 25 yrs. Power is DC with 90%of cars and engines with horn hooks and 10% nuckle hooks. I have abt 75 ft of power-loc, abt 75 ft of silver/nickle and over 300 ft maybe more of brass and turnouts. My layout is in a room 13' X 8' and benchwork is in a U shape w/40" sides with 4' X 8' end. The 40 1/2" sides is just enough for cuves for passenger cars which I only have 5, but works well with 40 & 50' cars.
Right now I have a flat surface (1/4" plywood on 2x4 frame with 1/2 pink foam board for base) I currently have the power-loc traack down both sides and travels up and around the center U opening. I'm trying to make into an operational layout off a roundabout.
Nothing is down permanantly yet since I've haad it apart at least 5 times so far. Would like any sugestions, would like to have cross over bridges +.
I know my space is limited
Hello All,
Sorry for your loss.
to the forums.
Your first few posts will be moderated so there will be a delay in posting.
Sounds like you have a Hodgepodge of track.
Brass track is difficult to keep clean and prone to oxidation. This is one reason modern track is made from nickel-silver.
My suggestion is to scrap all the brass track in favor of nickel-silver.
Depending on your track plan you can purchase more Power-Loc track to complete it.
The downside of any track with built-in roadbed is your track plan has to conform to the set radii of the track pieces.
You might want to set up a simple track arrangement with the Power-Loc track, get the DC engines running, and run some trains!
Then, develop a viable track plan with either the Power-Loc track or modern nickel-silver flex track and turnouts.
A word abut track planning from the "Wizzard Of Monterey" John Allen;
"A model railroad should probably start with a concept. Why? Because much knowledge about railroading, experience in model railroading, and thought are required before a proper concept for a model railroad can be formed. These requirements are seldom possible on a first pike. Mine was no exception." - -John Allen; Gorre & Daphetid Railroad.
Keep the questions coming and as always...
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
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jjdamnitMy suggestion is to scrap all the brass track in favor of nickel-silver.
Yes, 100%
jjdamnitKeep the questions coming and as always...
Yes again. I hope you stick around and share your progress.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
I would only use Ni-silver for main track, but I was considering using old brass track for stub sidings beyong where locos would run. Are there any downsides to that?
1. It is possible to mix Power Loc track and standard track but it is necessary to beef up the height of the regular track -- almost a double layer of cork roadbed. Plus the end of the Power Loc needs to be sawed off so it mates with regular flex or sectional track. If I recall right some Power Loc type track, maybe from LifeLike?, has steel rail.
2. Using brass track on the far ends of stub sidings would "work" in an electrical sense. In fact a friend of mine with a scrap yard on a stub siding was looking for a way to capture the deeply rusted look that gondolas of wet scrap were creating on the prototypes rail and ties, and found that brass rail properly painted or weathered did give him the look he sought. But that is just bits of rail here and there.
Dave Nelson