Filling track gaps

[Anonymous]

I have a small but irksome gap on a flex-track joint. Is there a way to fill this gap to provide a smooth transition and remove the "bump" from my trains? Solder? In the same vein - I want to cut a gap into a powered rail for creating an isolated electrical block - is there a similar filler that is not conductive that can smooth this gap?

Thanks!

[CPPedler]

Personnally I wouldn't fill a gap of this nature due to expansion in the summer months, it is surprising how much track will expand with varying temperatures and if you were to fill these gaps then the track could easily buckle and of course cause a short circuit if it were to close the isolating gaps. CPPedler

[jrbarney]

19hokie81,
\Welcome to the forum !
For some other views on this topic, here's a link to one of the earlier threads on this topic:
http://www.trains.com/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=22656
There are other threads on this topic.
Bob
NMRA Life 0543

[2021]

You didn't state the size of the gap so I assume the previous answers sufficed. As far as cutting a gap for the powered rails (both rails if DCC), the best way is to cut a small gap inthe rails with either a rail cutting hand saw or a dremel tool and then glue in a small piece of styrene using super glue. Let it dry for a day or so and then clean of the excess from around the rail (an exacto knife and #11 blade works well). You can use a fine file to make sure the top of the rail is smooth. This provides all the insulation you need and is virtually invisible. Done this many times and never had a problem. I wouldn't use those ugly rail insulator/rail joiners.
Ron K.

[Anonymous]

I use silicone caulk to fill my gaps. After it dries, trim it up w/a sharp hobby knife. It also allows the track to flex a little but not close up.

[Anonymous]

I second the method used by Ron, never had a problem myself. That caulk way sounds interesting though, might give that a try, good tip.

David

[mikebonellisr]

I use J B Weld.Encase the whole gap,then trim and file.It creates a strong,insulated joint

[cwclark]

take a piece of styrene plastic that's a little larger than the rail and shove it into the gap (you may need a couple of pieces ) until it's a snug fit...then apply C/A glue and glue it in place...once it dries, whittle out the excess styrene with a hobby knife and file it smooth a small jeweler's file until the remaining plastic is the shape of the rail...after the track is weathered you won't even know it's there...chuck[:D]

[markpierce]

I suggest you cut out a foot or two of track and replace it with new (flex?) track.

[CBQ_Guy]

QUOTE: Originally posted by alco930

I second the method used by Ron, never had a problem myself. That caulk way sounds interesting though, might give that a try, good tip.

David

Flex-caulk for flex-track...I like it.

BTW, silicone caulk comes in brown and also black.

[CBQ_Guy]

QUOTE: Originally posted by cwclark

take a piece of styrene plastic that's a little larger than the rail and shove it into the gap (you may need a couple of pieces ) until it's a snug fit...then apply C/A glue and glue it in place...once it dries, whittle out the excess styrene with a hobby knife and file it smooth a small jeweler's file until the remaining plastic is the shape of the rail...after the track is weathered you won't even know it's there...chuck[:D]

I recently read somewhere else about a guy who sticks scotch tape to the sides of the rail with the gap to be filled in the middle...the tape acts as a dam. Then he puts baking soda in the gap, and then drips in the C/A glue. No filler, just the C/A. Baking soda is apparently an instant hardener for the C/A.