Hi all, I've been absent for a while, not getting much done on the layout. With the modular railroad packed away after the holidays, I'm getting back on track, and I have a question.
I have 2 curved industry leads/spurs (paper mill) coming off of an already-lower-than-mainline siding. I shoved some bits of cut up foam and cork underneath it for now, but what is the best solution for this? Or at least I could use some ideas...
I may need to do this in other, more straight, areas, so any advice on that is appreciated too. I've already decided to raise my main yard up using a cork sheet, so that won't be too big of a problem, just a small grade on the yard lead.
I'll try to post more updates/photos soon!
Harrison
Homeschooler living In upstate NY a.k.a Northern NY.
Modeling the D&H in 1978.
Route of the famous "Montreal Limited"
My YouTube
I cut out the foam on a slope and lower the cork into it. Easy peasy. I use caulk to secure the cork as it is a good leveler for errant cuts in the foam.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
I've used several things that have worked out really well. One was tapered door/ window shims that you can get at most building supply and big box stores. Another was cork roadbed filed down with a rasp. Another one was sheet rock cement smoothed on with a putty knife and that was coming off foam roadbed that was thinner than the cork. Once hidden by ballast and scenery you can't tell what was used. What ever you use just make sure there are no sharp transition. A small sanding block is your best friend.
Pete.
Once your ballast is glued in place, so will your track be.
You can view shims as things that just keep the track lined up until the above happens.
Ed
It looks like the tracks that you want to transition down to the foam are on a curve. Straight shims will work if you cut them into segments, but another approach would be to put successive layers of masking tape down on the curve. Start with a long piece that runs the entire length of the transition and then use progressively shorter pieces to build the grade. If you are worried about the tape drying out over time, use card stock cut to match the curve and glue it down.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Ed must do as I do...lay the track, ballast, adjust the track on the ballast to ensure the grade and transitions are good, then glue it and wait for the glue to harden. Once this happens, the tracks are firmly in place and you needn't shim at all. If you must shim, get door jamb/framing shims, but the grade they'll impart is rather steep, in excess of 4%. You could try sanding cork underlay. I think you might be considering cork roadbed anyway? So, just sand a ramp into a strip and lay it over the lower layer, near the junction.
Regular building shims can be cut down to the proper height. If the slope is still too severe you can overlay cardboard strips cut from ceral boxes at the narrow end of the shim to lessen the slope.
- Douglas
Hello All,
Since it appears you are using cork roadbed sanding a grade is a common practice with this material.
With these being on a curve I would begin by sanding the straight piece of cork roadbed.
Once satisfied with the grade, cut small triangular sections- -kerfing- -opposite each other spaced approximately 1/4- to 1/2-inches apart, similar to the zig-zag pattern of Woodland Scenics risers.
This will allow you to make a curved transition without kinking the roadbed. The larger the cuts and closer the spacing will allow for tighter curves.
Before laying down the track and ballasting, use sheets of facial tissue or bathroom tissue to cover the kerfing so ballast won't fall into the gaps.
Use the same glue/water mixture you would with ballasting. You can trim any errant edges to match the slope of the roadbed.
Install the track and ballast as you would normally.
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
I layer 1/4" masking tape in longer and longer pieces to create a taper from the thicker roadbed to the elevation I want for the spur / siding. Works great. I use 1/4" because anything wider tends to wrinkle up on curves.
Here's my diagram for going from Midwest HO cork roadbed to their N scale cork roadbed. As you can see, the ramp is 11 inches long.
Masking tape is about .0035 inches thick per layer, but this varies a bit from one brand to another.
Mark P.
Website: http://www.thecbandqinwyoming.comVideos: https://www.youtube.com/user/mabrunton
If window/door shims make the grade too steep, find wood shingles, they are usually quite a bit longer.
Good luck,
Richard
Thank you all for the advice, I will see which option works best and post an update.
Harrison,
This is off the topic, but I'm curious about your photos. Where do you post your photos that allow us to zoom on the photo itself. I don't see any photo hosting site for your picture, so I assume you are doing this yourself. I like it that we have the ability to zoom on your photos.
York1 John
I asked my doctor if I gave up delicious food and all alcohol, would I live longer? He said, "No, but it will seem longer."
I upload my photos to a "public" folder on Google Drive. Then I click "open in new window", and then copy the embed code and paste it into the source code feature on the forum. It's a little bit of work but it's worth it, especially since I have unlimited Google Drive space...
HarrisonI upload my photos to a "public" folder on Google Drive. Then I click "open in new window", and then copy the embed code and paste it into the source code feature on the forum. It's a little bit of work but it's worth it, especially since I have unlimited Google Drive space...
Thank you for doing such a great job with the pictures you share.
I hope you continue. I enjoy seeing what you are working on.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
For a shim, I used a paint stirring stick that I sanded down. You could use many different things.
I am hesitant to use a third party to upload my photos.
However, your method, since I already have a Google account, interests me.
I've been trying to follow your steps but have been unsuccessful.
Can you take some time and go into more detailed steps on how to upload photos?
This might necessitate a separate thread moderated by you.
Thank you in advance.
jjdamnitHowever, your method, since I already have a Google account, interests me. I've been trying to follow your steps but have been unsuccessful. Can you take some time and go into more detailed steps on how to upload photos? This might necessitate a separate thread moderated by you.
Harrison seems to be one sharp kid.
He seems to have a handle on all kinds of things that confuse me. I hope he does a thread on using Google to host pictures. It sure seems to work great for him.
SeeYou190Harrison seems to be one sharp kid.
That's why I'm seeking his knowledge on a subject that I need help with, no matter their age.
"Knowledge comes at the expense of pride."
SeeYou190This is why only people with real experience should be answering questions.
I look forward to learning a new skill.
Hi Harrison,
Mark Pruitt and I both suggested using 1/4" masking tape earlier in this thread. If you want to see an example of Mark's work, go to the last page of his layout thread and look at his last video #27. Starting at the 10:15 mark you will be able to see how he uses 1/4" masking tape to superelevate his curves and to make the grade adjustment between the main line and a spur track.
https://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/t/278638.aspx?page=17#3388266
His method is especially suited to your needs because your spur is curved. With all due respect to previous posters, using straight materials like door frame shims on a curved track would be a lot of work.
hon30critterWith all due respect to previous posters, using straight materials like door frame shims on a curved track would be a lot of work.
My method also works on a curve.
BATMANMy method also works on a curve.
Hi Brent,
Yes, indeed it does. I apologise for painting with too broad a brush.
hon30critter BATMAN My method also works on a curve. Hi Brent, Yes, indeed it does. I apologise for painting with too broad a brush. Dave
BATMAN My method also works on a curve.
No worries Dave, My method gets no attention most of the time but I offer it up anyway. It is easy and fast and the cork curves nicely. I have posted it on a few FB sites I troll and it seems to be catching on.
Selector's suggestion is probably the easiest to accomplish, especially atop foam.Be patient with the drying time, though, as the deeper the ballast layer, the longer it needs to harden.My track (on cork) is all atop wood, and the cork is glued to the wood. Where I want to take the track to a lower area (transition it from cork to the bare wood) I simply wrap a piece of #36 garnet paper around a block of wood, and in a couple of minutes, the grade is complete.
In the photo below, the two side-by-side trains are on cork roadbed, as is pretty-well everything to the right.The smaller loco, to the left, is at the bottom of the sanded-down cork roadbed, and when the other trains are out of the way, will head upgrade to the main line, a distance of about 20". All of the rest of the track, left of the main tracks, is directly atop the plywood.
The curve of the mainline tracks, in the distance, was also sanded-down to the plywood, simply to negate need of any slopes to the industries that are around the corner...
I used Woodland Scenics ballast and cinders to create the illusion of raised mainline roadbed, but there actually is none.
In the photo below, the ballast just before the track reaches the bridge, took almost a week to fully harden...
...something to keep in mind if you use Selector's suggestion.
Wayne