What would be an appropriate color to use for that metallic/greyish color for a steam locomotives firebox and (I think it's) the ashpan hopper?
I don't have an airbush so I'd have to use spray can.
Thanks!
Depending on how and with what a locomotive is painted, along with when it was painted, the colours on the smokbox and firebox might be quite varied. Here are a few examples that I've used...
...on this one, done for a friend, I used Floquil Graphite on both the smokebox and firebox, mainly because this particular loco has those areas lagged (insulated)...
One of the many advantages of an airbrush over a spray can is the ability to mix paints to get exactly the colour you want, as well as much better control over paint application.I usually use four or five varieties of "black" on most steamers, and my airbrush allows me to apply all of those colours in a single session, simply by masking-off adjacent areas with a piece of hand-held cardstock.
Wayne
ChrisVAI don't have an airbush so I'd have to use spray can.
Finding an appropriate colour in a spray can might be a challenge. Most metallic silvers in spray cans look far too bright to me.
You might try the Rustoleum metals series of spray paints. These have more realistic colours, but they go on thick. Try on a test piece first.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
ChrisVAWhat would be an appropriate color to use for that metallic/greyish color for a steam locomotives firebox and (I think it's) the ashpan hopper? I don't have an airbush so I'd have to use spray can.
Chris,
I thought about this a bit more.
I use Scalecoat Smokebox Gray for my smokeboxes (makes sense).
I checked the Minuteman Models Scalecoat site, and they do offer this colour in a spray can.
As another alternative, and less masking, you could use one of Vallejo's dark silver colours and apply it with a brush.
On some of my locos, I used a light gray, then apply light coats of black washes until I get a proper tone.
20210705_210359 on Flickr
Simon
Remember what these represent.
Smokebox is graphite in oil vehicle, which then darkens with heat and holds soot. It sees high gas temp directly, perhaps over 700F in places even without reigniting of 'sparks'.
Firebox sides do NOT see this high temperature even though the firebox inner wrapper sees dramatically higher radiant temperature from luminous flame and some of that heat might be expected to come out at the staybolt heads. The legs are relatively speaking full of water but it is at saturation temperature for the given working boiler pressure, so still relatively high-temperature for historical paint, so if you want to keep your outer staybolt ends visible for inspection you might graphite here as well, using an oil that hardens at a corresponding temperature range.
You might use this on the convection section too but that can be (and is) well lagged with insulation. The outer sheet metal that holds the insulation doesn't see dramatically high temperatures, so can be Russia iron or, as things got cheaper, various sorts of paint coating.
Ash pan is not going to be painted on the inside... which is most of the visible side. This is thin sheet metal with hot abrasive cinders raining on it, sluiced with water periodically to clean it. I suspect this to not be graphited, just natural metal -- probably an iron gray with some burned rust patches. Underside of the ash pan may be different; I'd expect this to be railroad-specific and Ed might weigh in with details and some pix.