Trains.com

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

new n scaler -track

987 views
7 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
new n scaler -track
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, January 17, 2005 3:41 PM
I am new to the world of model rr train-ing. I have high hopes of a very cool layout. However I am stuck on the very first thing. Laying track. what is the best substraight to use . foam board? plywood? something else? and how does the track get fastened in place.
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, January 17, 2005 5:28 PM
Welcome. The first thing is to figure out a basic layout size and design. Also area, Mountains, Desert, etc. From that I would recommend from my experience. 1x3" wood frame, 1/4" ply top, top that with 1 or 2" pink or blue Foam. Woodland scenics risers and grades sure make muti-levels easy. And Kato Unitrack is bullet proof. One mains experience and suggestions. I'm sure you'll get lots more. There is a wealth of info on this and other forums. Dave
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, January 18, 2005 11:14 AM
let me explane more of what I mean. I have a platform of 3/4 ply on a 2x4 frame.
what i would like to know is ..... i was not going to use cork for a track liner because i'm not concerned with the noise..... should i nail the track directly to the ply wood? or is it better to use 1 or 2 inch foam board as the base and glue the track to that. the other issue to think about is that there is a large mountian that the train will go through and also up the face using switch backs.
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, January 19, 2005 7:59 AM
You should still use some type of trackbed/roadbed under your track. It's not just for noise. Without it, you won't have the realistic profile of varying grades between track, countryside, roads, etc. I do HO, and found that using cheap (very cheap, 6 tubes for $2.99) white latex caulk for attaching the roadbed to the base and the track to the roadbed works very well. If you make a mistake, it's easy to lift it up and repair.
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, January 20, 2005 7:58 PM
Hi fishingfan,I hope these people can give you some guidance, because You and I both know that you are WAY beyond help[(-D]!! I'm picking up a new snare drum head on Friday, so we'll be all set for band practice[dinner]!! See you Monday evening!!!!
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, January 21, 2005 7:57 AM
thanks for the help from everybody except mainecentral229, he live too close to me.
I have decided to use the roadbed.
  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: Illinois
  • 5 posts
Posted by Markg99051 on Sunday, January 23, 2005 6:46 PM
FYI, I've used three different materials on various layouts -- cork roadbed, Woodland Scenics foam and AMI Instant Roadbed. I like AMI the best. It is not as easy to find -- your hobby shop can order it or you can order from some of the internet suppliers (Brooklyn Locomotive Works or N Scale Supply). I found the Woodland Scenic's product the least desirable -- hard to curve, hard to attach. Cork is okay. The advantage to AMI is that you can just press the track in place, get everything level and then secure with ballast.

I still glue the ballast to the roadbed and track. Manufacturer claims the rubber will hold the ballast in place, but I haven't found that to be true.
  • Member since
    February 2001
  • From: US
  • 506 posts
Posted by snowey on Sunday, January 23, 2005 8:53 PM
to fasten the track to the roadbed, you can use white glue from a craft store, latex caulk, or track nails by Atlas. Years ago, Life-like also made some, along with track screws, but I don't know if they still make them. Unless the track is Atlas, you'll have to drill small holes in some of the ties.
If you use calk, make sure it's foam compatible. (in other words, make sure it will work on foam). white glue, such as Elmers (widely avaible at drugstores, craft stores, building supply stores and supermarkets) will work on foam and track, though. However, Ilike to use WOODLAND SCENICS "FOAM TACK GLUE". If you make a mistake, or change your mind after the track is laid, wait until it dries, and you can easily pull it up, leaving little or no residue.

You can also use all these methods to fasten down roadbed.

Read some of the model railroading how-to books from Kalmbach Publishing. They're readily availible from the Model Railroader link on this site, at your local hobby shop, or online from a number of dealers. Or, try this link:


www.kalmbach.com/books
"I have a message...Lt. Col....Henry Blakes plane...was shot down...over the Sea Of Japan...it spun in...there were no survivors".

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

Users Online

There are no community member online

Search the Community

ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
Model Railroader Newsletter See all
Sign up for our FREE e-newsletter and get model railroad news in your inbox!