I will have some locations where the switch rod between the headblocks of a turnout comes out on the wrong side: i.e. there isn't going to be enough room for the rod to move because I have another track parallel on the same side where my ground throws would be. -Or- I have two turnouts parallel to each other with diverging routes going in opposite directions, so the ground throws would be in the exact same place in between the tracks.
First thought: cut off the switch rod and try to remount on the opposite side by glueing. Has anyone tried this? Don't know why it wouldn't work..?..
Andy
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Milwaukee native modeling the Milwaukee Road in 1950's Milwaukee.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/196857529@N03/
For situations where there's insufficient room for a switchstand, I follow prototype practices, and model it as having an extension for the throwbar.The turnouts shown are Peco and Micro Engineering, both with built-in springs, and since the turnouts are close to the edge of the layout, no switch machine or Caboose Industries ground throws are needed...all it takes is a fingertip to flip the points...
(Click on photos for a larger view)
The switchstands shown are merely decorative - I set them appropriately by-hand for photos, but usually don't bother during operations.
If your turnouts use under-layout switch machines, you may be able to lengthen the throwbar using piano wire thick enough that it won't flex.
In my staging yards, I use Caboose Industries sprung ground throws, and the piano wire linkage allows it to cross under the near track...
Wayne
On shinohara turnouts I just install on the other side and add new headers, once painted and ballasted, no one notices the cut.
I have a switch that is in a brick street that is controlled by a ground throw next to a parallel switch. It use's 1/32nd hardened brass rod inserted into a brass sleeve that is embedded under brick and ground. It is the switch closest to the switch frog. The ground throws are Caboose N scale, which I found work well with Atlas code 83 #4's........people say that won't work..........But why do mine??????
Take Care!
Frank
I should have noted that I'm using Atlas code 100 turnouts. If I end up incorporating some code 83 PECO sounds like I can easily reset the switch rod, but with code 100's the rods are set with some sort of brad-type metal pieces..
zstripeThe ground throws are Caboose N scale, which I found work well with Atlas code 83 #4's........people say that won't work..........But why do mine??????
Most of my Caboose Industries ground throws were the N scale version, and you're right...they work perfectly-well for HO.
doctorwayne zstripe The ground throws are Caboose N scale, which I found work well with Atlas code 83 #4's........people say that won't work..........But why do mine?????? Most of my Caboose Industries ground throws were the N scale version, and you're right...they work perfectly-well for HO. Wayne
zstripe The ground throws are Caboose N scale, which I found work well with Atlas code 83 #4's........people say that won't work..........But why do mine??????
Also they look so much better.....than the monster HO version...
I recently removed over 40 of them from my layout...no compaints about them at all, but I decided that Central Valley's positionable switchstands look a little more realistic. I revised the turnouts' operation by adding a spring to the points, while some of the more hard-to-reach ones were motorised with Rapido motors or PFM/Tenshodo rack-motors, and some others got Blue Point controllers.
I still use the Caboose Industries ground throws in all of my staging yards, though, as they're very reliable.
Wayne,
I really like the style switch stands that You are using. The partial yard/Industrial complex near the South Chicago River was a stone's throw from My childhood home in the beginning 50's so I actually grew up with them.
I was going to switch mine but decided against it.