Recently I've been working on chain link fence, and perfecting my technique, which I've developed using several different sources. Hopefully this helps those who want this type of fence on their layouts, and let me know if you have any questions.
https://youtu.be/4-IbfwNxsHo
https://northcountrytrains.wordpress.com/2021/03/16/how-to-scratchbuild-chain-link-fence/
To build your fence, you need:
0.32″ music wire- I got mine from Hobby Lobby, made by K&S Precision Metals.
1/16″ metal tubing- This is only if you plan on making opening gates. I got mine from Hobby Lobby, but I'm unable to locate it on their website, so here it is on Amazon.
Some kind of mesh material for the chain link. I would recommend looking at your local fabric or craft store. I used some stuff my mom had lying around for who knows what.
Basic tools- Specifically wire cutters, an Exacto knife, a soldering iron, and your other basics.
I started by cutting my music wire. Using my scale ruler, I cut two 12 foot pieces and two 10 foot pieces for the posts. I take the desired height (6 feet) and add about 4 scale feet so I have something to stick into the layout.
I then attached the pieces to my graph paper (which helps things stay nice and straight) using poster tack.
The next step is to solder the frame together. Use flux, and make sure the joint is nice and strong. I’ve had many a fence section come apart because the joint wasn’t strong enough.
Now you can carefully remove the poster tack and take the frame off the paper. Once you do this, paint the frame, either using silver paint or a silver sharpie or paint marker.
With the frame complete, I shifted to the mesh, which I painted silver using the same method.
With the mesh painted, I glued the frame to the mesh using super glue.
Once the glue is dry, you can carefully cut the mesh away around the frame, leaving a bit at the top and bottom like the prototypes.
To install the fence on a foam-based layout, simply stick it into your foam while your scenery glue is drying.
I added some grass tufts around the base for more realism.
And that's all there is to it. Enjoy!
Harrison
Homeschooler living In upstate NY a.k.a Northern NY.
Modeling the D&H in 1978.
Route of the famous "Montreal Limited"
My YouTube
A fabric called tulle is useful for the chain link, It is used for wedding veils. Hobby Lobby should stock it in their fabric section.
azrail A fabric called tulle is useful for the chain link, It is used for wedding veils. Hobby Lobby should stock it in their fabric section.
Thanks! I'll look for it next time I'm there.
Since I have a few scenes on my layout where an industry requires fencing around its entire (or most of its) perimeter, I prefer to use the Walthers chain link fence kit for the vertical fence poles (with extensions for barbed wire). However, as the total fence length can be four or five feet long. I substitute 3' lengths of .020" piano wire for the "florist's wire" horizontal "tubes" supplied in the kit. I start by drilling .020" holes through the molded-on top and bottom sleeves of the Walthers fence poles. I do this while the poles are still attached to the parts sprue to make it easier to hold the poles still while drilling. Once all the poles are drilled, I mark the lengths of piano wire with marks every ten scale feet. I then thread the poles onto the two lengths of piano wires and glue them in place using CA. Make sure to work on a large flat surface to help keep your fence straight and square.
The most difficult and time consuming part of making good looking chain link fencing is accurately cutting the tule material. I start by first misting the tool with black spray paint as it makes it easier to see on my cutting mat. Using a brand new blade in my hobby knife, I then true up one edge of the tule to make sure it is straight along one row of diamonds. I don't use a straight edge as I find the tule fabric tends to shift and twist while cutting, even with a fresh blade. Yes, I cut each individual diamond to ensure the final fencing material is indeed straight like the prototype. I next count down the required number of rows needed to slightly overlap the two lengths of piano wire and cut along that row of diamonds. Take your time and be patient so you don't find yourself cutting along the wrong row half-way through the job. Use magnification if you need it (I do!).
When ready to glue the tule to the fencing frame, I like to use PSA glue from MicroMark. I use a toothpick to apply a small bead of PSA glue along each length of fence "tubing" and let it dry until tacky. I can then take my time to postion, then press into place an appropriate length of tule material. When I get to the end of a length of tule, but still have more fence to cover, I press the tule into the PSA on the last fence post it will reach, then carefully trim the tule back to the post. I start the next length of tule by applying more PSA atop the end of the previous length of tule, then positioning the start of the next length of tule atop the end of the previous length of tule and continue on down the fence to the end. The PSA has the advantages of fairly long repositioning time and, because it is already dry to tackiness, it will not bleed into the tule and fill in whole diamonds as can happen using other types of adhesives.
Once the tule is attached to the fence frame, I position the fence on my layout, mark and drill out the mounting holes for each vertical pole. I carefully bend the piano wire at the vertical fence posts where the fence has to follow curves. I try to shape the fence so that it will hold its shape along its location without needing to be inserted into its mounting holes.
I use sewing thread and CA to create the 3 strands of barbed wire along the top of the fence. Apply your barbed wire after shaping the length of your fence as doing so before will cause the Thread to stretch to the point of pulling away from some poles while sagging between other poles.
Once complete, I paint the entire fence using either light grey primer (for an oxidized fence) or "aluminum" colored paint for a fresh galvanized fence. I also use pan pastels to add rust, dirt and grime to the finished fence. Once dry, I "plant" the fence in its mounting holes. I generally find that the fence does not need to be glued into the layout except possibly at the ends.
Hornblower
I use 0.020" phosphor bronze wire for my fences. It is stiffer then brass wire but still easy to solder. I also use teulle for the chain link. For the barbed wire I use 32 gauge magnet wire soldered to the uprights.
All of the horizontal parts are one piece and then they are soldered to the vertical posts. I make the post about 2 scale feet longer on the bottom to give me something to plant in the ground.
I use CA spread with a sewing pin to and then set teulle in place. I trim off the excess after everything is dry. much easier (for me that is) than trying to cut it then line it up.
After Its all assembled I airbrush it with old silver. I didn't do any rust on this fence as I wanted to make it look like it was recently installed.
Colorado Front Range Railroad: http://www.coloradofrontrangerr.com/
Harrison, Nice tutorial. Soldering; invaluable skill that inspires confidence.
Thanks and regards, Peter
Thanks for the comments and tips everyone. I'm always looking for ways to perfect my technique. I agree that buying a kit from Walthers is easier, but in my case I won't need as much, and I like to save money where I can.
Well...
1) Using poster tack to hold pieces in place for soldering.
2) Using a silver sharpie to paint small parts.
What do you know, you can teach an old-dog new tricks. I have never thought of either one of these.
Thanks for the great tutorial and for sharing your techniques. Also, congratulations on the successful soldering and fence construction. It looks good.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
I'm glad you enjoyed Kevin. You can also use sharpie paint markers for painting stuff silver.
When shopping for tulle, look for reminants. I got sone pieces 6-8 inches wide, long enough for scale miles of fence for about $1, if I remember right.
Nice video.
Have fun,
Richard
When I built some chain-link fences about three yrs. ago. I used 1/16'' posts with 1/32nd stringers that were 1'' longer at the bottom edge, so they would fit into holes drilled into My Homasote top of layout, making the whole fence removeable, when need be. The layout is partial open grid, 1/2'' ply over grid and 1/2''Homasote over ply. Tracks are all spiked down, ballast glue does the rest. There are also two working slide gates, modeled after some prototypes that I passed through for 15yr's at a truck line I worked for. All parts are hardened brass from K&S. Mesh is 1/32'' hole Copper that I had shopped out......so, it was not cheap, but to Me worth every penny. I have made over 600 scale ft. of it, in just one spot alone.
All photos may be clicked on for a larger view:
Below pic shows the part standing with one end has sleves soldered in place to accept the piece laying on the bottom, that the top/bottom stringer slides into. They are all made on a jig, 100 scale ft. in length:
All this was soldered with Solder-It Silver bearing solder paste.......So much easier to solder with.....one hand free, no need to hold to solder with iron. Paste also has built in flux.
Paint was Tamiya Aluminum acrylic air brushed.
Take Care!
Frank
Thanks for the info Richard and Frank! All this information will be helpful in the future if I ever want to make an updated tutorial. I like finding many methods for making something and combinding the best from each while adding my own techniques.
Great tutorial Harrison as I enjoyed it. You really did a great job on that fence. Impressive!
Judy is forever finding stuff and saving it for me like the styrofoam tubs that meat comes in. She recently found this really micro grid material that looks perfect for N-gage chain link fence. Unfortunately the fine mesh lace is bright red. I'm hoping to bleach it and try out your silver permanent marker trick to find out if that works. This material is so alter fine, I'm afraid spray paint might fill in the checkered voids.
I'll let you know how that silver permanent marker trick turns out when I get to it.
Again, Great Job
TF