I have found online that Michaels and Hobby Lobby both sell a corrugated paper product. It comes in a 12" x 12" sheet for $1.99 ea. HL sells it in a brown color but Michaels sells it in brown and a metallic silver. Online photo looks like it could be reasonable for HO scale. I was wondering if anyone out there has tried using this for HO scale roofing? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
wdcrvr
The late E.L. Moore, one of the great structure scratchbuilders and prolific author in MR and RMC, made his own corrugated siding and roofing by taking ordinary bond paper and placing it on corrugated metal, plastic or wood surfaces and with a dried out old ink pen, press the paper down into the corrugations. I do not recall if he hardened the paper with shellac or not afterwards
Anyway he made prolific use of that corrugated paper in his many building projects. So I'd say give it a try
Dave Nelson
wdcrvr,
I'd love for you to give it a try so we can learn from your results!
dknelsonI do not recall if he hardened the paper with shellac or not afterwards
I think Dave makes a good point about sealing the paper before using it. Shellac would work well, but regular cheap solvent based auto primer would likely work too. I think it would be best to avoid using anything water based, either for sealing or gluing it in place.
I'm glad that you pointed this product out. I hate using foil corrugated panels because they mark and distort so easily, and they are expensive.
Thanks,
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
The best corigation I have seen and used is in a loads set from jaeger, much thicker than Campbell and was tempted to not do the load but save for buldings.
The Michael's 12'' x12'' brown corrugated paper that I have is too big for HO scale ''metal'' roofing. It looks to be 12'' HO scale from ridge to ridge.
I am not sure but the number on the back of my 12'' x 12'' brown corrugated paper is (221082 81210-2020-03) or the SKU# 4 00100 00087 8.
The HO figure is 6' tall.
Online right now, HL's is discounted down to .99 and Michael's is $1.99. Looks to be the same item, just different Brand.
The Jaeger brand Corrugated flat metal for rolling your own pipe loads measures HO scale, 18'-6'' long x 7'- 6'' tall with the ribs running up and down or vertical.
A roll your own pipe load.
A little too widely spaced for HO - however, if you dabble in Gn15, modelers there have used it for years as it suits G scale nicely.
The paper from HL and Michaels looked good on the internet but when I went to the store I realized it is much too large for HO. It's good looking stuff though and I wish I could think of something to use it for in HO. Anybody got any ideas?
wdcrvrhe paper from HL and Michaels looked good on the internet but when I went to the store I realized it is much too large for HO. It's good looking stuff though and I wish I could think of something to use it for in HO. Anybody got any ideas?
Retaining walls?
wdcrvr I have found online that Michaels and Hobby Lobby both sell a corrugated paper product. HL sells it in a brown color but Michaels sells it in brown and a metallic silver. Online photo looks like it could be reasonable for HO scale. I was wondering if anyone out there has tried using this for HO scale roofing? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks wdcrvr
I have found online that Michaels and Hobby Lobby both sell a corrugated paper product. HL sells it in a brown color but Michaels sells it in brown and a metallic silver. Online photo looks like it could be reasonable for HO scale. I was wondering if anyone out there has tried using this for HO scale roofing? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
A ploughed field?
David
To the world you are someone. To someone you are the world
I cannot afford the luxury of a negative thought
Your retaining wall idea makes me think that it might work vertically as the wall of a pier? Any thoughts on that?
wdcrvrYour retaining wall idea makes me think that it might work vertically as the wall of a pier? Any thoughts on that?
That's what first popped into my mind. My only caution would be that the paper would likely have to be thoroughly sealed before any liquid water effect was poured next to it. The paper is very likely to absorb a lot of moisture which may or may not cause problems. Doing a small test would be advisable.
One other thought comes to mind. The paper will be prone to being dinted if it is not reinforced somehow. Perhaps several layers could be laminated together with white glue in order to provide a more durable surface.
hon30critter One other thought comes to mind. The paper will be prone to being dinted if it is not reinforced somehow. Perhaps several layers could be laminated together with white glue in order to provide a more durable surface. Dave
This Corrugated paper is corrugated on one side and has a flat piece of brown paper glued on the back side.
As for a Ploughed field, with 12'' rows/ridges, still to close for corn.
I use Alcohol and dye to color the paper. The Alcohol, being wet will bleed though to the flat sheet on the back, the Alcohol dryes quickly and the two pieces do not separate. Meaning the glue does not dissolve. It may be OK for a small field (HO) of unknown crops about one acre in size. Any larger then that it starts to look too straight for me.
I should add the Green (plastic tractor with solid yellow rear wheels) Tractor's close together front tires fit in two different furrows perfectly but they should be in one furrow together, the rear tires do not fit in the furrows at all. None of the Red (plastic tractor with spoked red rear wheels) Tractor's tires fits the furrows no how.
EDIT: I have just learned that I also have newly aquired Green Tractors with spoked rear wheels (Athearn). I thought the Red Tractors I have with spoked rear wheels were Life Like, both Green and Red Tractors are identical. Somedays my hobby compleatly confuses me.
PC101This Corrugated paper is corrugated on one side and has a flat piece of brown paper glued on the back side.
Hi PC101,
Thanks for that information.
Obviously you have some experience with it. How durable is it? Are the corrugations likely to collapse if they are bumped?
Back in the days when I was still making model structures using wood, there were lots of structural shapes (angles, I-beams, H-columns in a variety of sizes), along with scribed and milled sheet basswood representing various wood sidings and corrugated siding and roofing.Here are a few photos (Click on the photos to get a larger view)...
...structural steel in basswood...
...and corrugated siding, too...
While the blast furnace was never completed, I did save some of the materials, and used some of the corrugated siding to make the enclosure for the stairs (based on the prototype) leading to the yard crane at the Lowbanks Shops...
...while the crane runway was all done using Evergreen styrene shapes...
Most of the structural shapes on the crane are basswood, as are the handrails, although I did re-do some of the damaged ones using styrene...
I also used a fair amount of Campbell's corrugated siding/roofing, as on this coal dealership (the structural "steel" framing is all from Evergreen) with Campbell's siding covering the walls and the removeable roof......
These small structures were both done using Evergreen styrene, with Campbell's corrugated sheets for the roofs...
...more corrugated sheets on the roof of the stockpens in Lowbanks, while the structural stuff (roof framing and stockpens) was all done with styrene...
GERN Industries warehouse at Port Maitland was scratchbuilt, using Evergreen styrene corrugated siding, while the roof is .060" sheet styrene, from a local supplier of 4'x8' sheets of the stuff. It was covered using more of the Campbell's sheet material...
In all cases where the Campbell's sheets were used, they were secured in place using contact cement.
Wayne
hon30critter PC101 This Corrugated paper is corrugated on one side and has a flat piece of brown paper glued on the back side. Hi PC101, Thanks for that information. Obviously you have some experience with it. How durable is it? Are the corrugations likely to collapse if they are bumped? Thanks, Dave
PC101 This Corrugated paper is corrugated on one side and has a flat piece of brown paper glued on the back side.
After the Alcohol and dye is dryed the ridges seems fairly stable for what it is, Paper.
For field work.
For a ''plowed/ploughed field'' if you dent (with a finger) some of the ridges, the uniformed ridges will look much better as a plowed/ploughed field.
You could use/make a small roller to roll glue on the high ridges and then dust the glue with ''vegatation/spouts'' and when the glue drys, if the panel is glued down to your layout, vacuum the loose ''greens'' up and out of the furrows. If the panel is not fasten down, then just turn it upside down and shake off the loose ''greens''.
For a upright wall.
I do not know how to test the crush strength fairly, but if you push with your flat finger it's ok. Now if you push with your finger nail, you have a dent that does not look unrealistic for ''damaged material''.