What's the best way to connect a rail joiner with a Peco turnout?They do not have the gap in the ties (like Atlas) where I can place a rail joiner. It would seem I need to cut off the ties at the end? If so, what is best tool to use for cutting? A Razorsaw? Once rail joiner is on rail, do I just "slide" the cut-off ties back under the rail and glue them in place somehow? What's a good way to do this?
Thanks in advance!
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
I use Atlas code 80 N scale joiners and they slip into the little pockets Peco makes at the end of the ties. The tie with the two heavy spike heads is simply left as is. The initial fit is a bit tight, then the plastic gives way much better the second time.
I don't cut anything.
- Douglas
You don't have to slice off the spike heads if you use a small enough rail joiner.
BigDaddy Use Peco joiners Cut off the tie plate detail that attaches to the foot of the rail. Do not cut off the ties.
Cripes, when I get done, it doesn't look anything as clean as that guy's installation. I did appreciate his use of track nails on the ties outside of the rails instead of between the rails. That is what I have done on my new layout - - nailed outside of the rails. On my old layout, I nailed in the center of the ties and on subsequent around-the-layout videos, the nail heads appeared like miniature bowling balls.
Rich
Alton Junction
OK, I was sufficiently intrigued with the video that I decided to try it with Atlas Code 83 flextrack and Atlas Code 83/100 rail joiners.
I must say, it is a time consuming procedure but it does work, and I really like the finished appearance.
My procedure has been to remove two ties on either side of the rail joint, add the two rail joiners, and then slip the ties back under the rail joiner. But, the trouble with that procedure is that you cannot get the ties up snug against the rails.
It is not that visually noticeable as you look down on the layout, but if you video your trains running down the track, those replaced ties are very noticeable, even after ballasting.
My biggest objection to this procedure is the time involved. I have a 162' double mainline. I think that it might take 5 years to complete the double mainline using this procedure. OK, perhaps I exaggerate the 5-year time span, but it would take considerable time.
One final observation. Using this procedure creates a slight hump under the rail joiner, so you need to be sure to remove that hump, however slight, with nails or caulk at the site of the rail joiners.
ChrisVA What's the best way to connect a rail joiner with a Peco turnout?They do not have the gap in the ties (like Atlas) where I can place a rail joiner. It would seem I need to cut off the ties at the end? If so, what is best tool to use for cutting? A Razorsaw? Once rail joiner is on rail, do I just "slide" the cut-off ties back under the rail and glue them in place somehow? What's a good way to do this? Thanks in advance!
On my Peco code 83 curved turnout, I was able to slip the Peco insulated rail joiner on without cutting anything. There is a recess or pocket designed in so you can connect a rail joiner without any cutting.
You do have to use the Peco code 83 insulated rail joiner as the Atlas are too fat. But the code 83 metal joiners should fit just as well as the Peco insulated.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
There is no need to slice spike heads or any of that sort of thing! There is a pocket carved out under the tie for the Peco joiners to slide in. A very clever design the eliminates the need for those unsightly odd shaped end ties found on Atlas track.
Look at the Peco turnout from the end - you'll see the space below the rail.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Randy is right No need to slice off spike heads. Not easy? I don't have special skills and didn't find it difficult.
The heavy double spikeheads are designed to keep the rails affixed to the ties as you push a properly sized joiner under the rail. It can be a tight fit if there are burrs or nubbies on the end of the joiner (like you can get when you separate them out of the package). Atlas code 83/100 joiners and similar brands of the same size are too big to fit into the pocket without slicing the double spike heads first, maybe even cut off the entire tie.
All Peco code 83 track products have these pockets. Flex track too.
You will need to do what's shown in the Peco vide when using the flex track, unless you are laying a long line of perfectly straight sections.
The Peco rail joiners are significantly smaller than Atlas, yet are formed differently and seem to hold tighter even after being pulled apart and put together a few times. The Peco metal ones also come individual, not on metal frets to cut apart. Peco insulated joiners are also small and very unobtrusive - you'd be hard pressed to find them after painting the rails. Those do come on a palstic sprue so you need to trim them carefully to eliminate flash which will prevent them from fitting in the under-tie pocket.
Not sure why this minor issue of cutting the webbing is being elevated into a big deal. Cut the webbing if a person wants, if it makes them more comfortable.
Granted I've only experimented with a couple, but I've linked multiple turnouts together and I currently have one turnout and 3 sectiosn of flex set up on my bench as a little test track. For none of these have I had any problem putting the joiners on the turnout. That's a couple of #8s, a couple #5s, a #6 (all Electrofrog) and a #6 Unifrog I just got. Maybe I'll change my tune if I get a dud, but so far so good.
Lastspikemike I guarantee you will experience completely unnecessary frustration trying to fit joiners to Peco turnouts unless you first trim off the spike heads from the last rail chair. The suggestion that doing so weakens the turnout in any way is frankly ridiculous.
I guarantee you will experience completely unnecessary frustration trying to fit joiners to Peco turnouts unless you first trim off the spike heads from the last rail chair.
The suggestion that doing so weakens the turnout in any way is frankly ridiculous.
Lastspikemike I guarantee you will experience completely unnecessary frustration trying to fit joiners to Peco turnouts unless you first trim off the spike heads from the last rail chair.
Are you using Peco joiners sold for code 83 track? So far my experience with inserting Peco branded joiners without trimming or cutting spike heads at the ends of turnouts has been anything but frustration.
I watched the Peco video - it's a great presentation for anyone who hasn't laid flex track before.