Been several years since I built a building. What glues are currently used.
I like various solvent cements, like MEK and Plastruct Bondene.
Rob Spangler
Yeah, I use MEK, and it makes good bonds and they harden quickly, too.
Wayne
Testors in the black odd shaped bottle with a needle nose applicator. Excellent results.
Rich
Alton Junction
Another MEK fan. I save the Tenax and Plastistruct bottles, and fill them from a gallon can of MEK.
I also use a lot of Ca.
Mike.
My You Tube
Acting on the suggestion in a Miles Hale instructinal video on structure kit construction, I tried Faller's Expert or Super Expert cement for plastics and have been happy with the results. It comes with a long needle like applicator that gives more precision than the usual small brush (although the so-called glue-loooper also has its merits). Only problem is that tendency of that needle applicator to clog.
For all I know the Faller is the "same stuff" - mostly MEK -- as the other brands. I still use Testors and Plastruct and such. So maybe I am really just praising the applicator and not the product per se. But I like using it and was pleased to see that Faller offers the same type of bottle and applicator for a cement (or perhaps it is a true glue) meant for laser cut wood kits.
Just as the cements that work best for styrene do not always work best for slippery engineering plastic such as Plastruct's ABS (gray) structural shapes, and vice versa, there seems to be differen recipes for styrene out there. I have been building an old Robins Rails/Bev-Bel styrene PS-1 boxcar kit from decades ago and the styrene they used seems to resist the "dissolve/melt" blending that is one of the nice features of working with styrene and cements. It isn't brittle. It drills and cuts like styrene. So I have been a bit stymied and even have resorted to small bits of Walthers Goo just to make stuff stick together! Whether related to that or not, the Robbins Rails kit also has more "flash" on the parts than any kit I have tackled in years and years. It's been a long time since I have used some of those swear words ....
Dave Nelson
Structure kits are difficult to build as is, because the corners require gluing together two thin plastic walls at right angles. I was never happy with the strength of the joint, and always annoyed with light leakage through the seam when I illuminated the building.
So, I now get balsa strips a quarter inch square or so and use those to reinforce the corner joints from the inside. I attach these to both walls with CA, which gives me a firm, solid joint and the wood strips block any light leakage.
I use Canopy Cement to attach the window glazing.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
MisterBeasley...So, I now get balsa strips a quarter inch square or so and use those to reinforce the corner joints from the inside. I attach these to both walls with CA, which gives me a firm, solid joint and the wood strips block any light leakage....
Another option would be to use .125" square strip material from Evergreen, as all joints could be done with solvent-type cement. I don't, however, recall difficulties with structure assembly of good quality kits from the likes of Walthers or DPM, as most have locating nubs or projections to aid in alignment of the mating components.I've bought quite a few used DPM structures assembled with ca, and all have been very easy to take apart. Once the ca has been sanded-off, a much stronger bond can be had with solvent-type cement, and if you have a misalignment causing a gap, it's easy to fill using strip styrene of a compatable size, along with a good solvent, such as MEK. Once it hardens, the joint can be filed or sanded smooth.
I've used MEK but have always been frustrated with application of the minumum amount to do the job. This thread got me thinking and after a little inet searching I think I found the answer to my MEK application problem! The good stuff is after ~3:00 but the first part is likely worth watching.
https://youtu.be/x2COvE56ba4
Gotta get me some of those!!!
Roger
This might sound off the wall--I have been using Elmer's School Glue (not White Glue, it's not as tacky) for building kits and rolling stock details. No it is not permanent but it is non-toxic with a nice odor, is tacky right out of the container, and it dries clear. As long as you don't mishandle things it is pretty strong. The beauty of this stuff is if you change your mind about positioning a part just pop it loose and reapply. -Rob
MisterBeasley Structure kits are difficult to build as is, because the corners require gluing together two thin plastic walls at right angles. I was never happy with the strength of the joint, and always annoyed with light leakage through the seam when I illuminated the building. So, I now get balsa strips a quarter inch square or so and use those to reinforce the corner joints from the inside. I attach these to both walls with CA, which gives me a firm, solid joint and the wood strips block any light leakage. I use Canopy Cement to attach the window glazing.
Simon