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Painting Pink Foamboard?

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  • Member since
    November 2019
  • 401 posts
Painting Pink Foamboard?
Posted by The Milwaukee Road Warrior on Monday, January 18, 2021 12:28 PM

Looking for suggestions/input on good paint for painting my foamboard subroadbed which covers my entire layout surface.  Not looking for brand info, but rather, do certain types of paint hold up better over the years?  

I'm planning to paint all the foamboard an earthen color to begin, then maybe at some point there will be some greens and grays as well around yards, streets etc.  (This is a layout set in an urban area.)

I could see paint cracking on the surface if any weight is put on it just because foamboard itself has a little "give".  What holds up best?  Acrylic, water based, oil based, enamel .... ? ....

Secondly, is there any need to prime foamboard like I did with my masonite backdrop?

Finally, I assume that gluing the cord roadbed in place before painting the foam is the way to go, as the cork may not adhere well to painted foam?

Andy

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Milwaukee native modeling the Milwaukee Road in 1950's Milwaukee.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/196857529@N03/

  • Member since
    February 2004
  • From: Central Ohio
  • 567 posts
Posted by basementdweller on Monday, January 18, 2021 12:47 PM

I have been very happy with painting pink foam with a water based / latex paint, it adheres just fine and no need for a primer. Oil based / solvent paints would most likely attack the foam. 

I have had no trouble using a latex adhesive type caulk to hold cork in place, either directly to the foam or over painted foam it will hold just fine, a thin film of caulk is all that is necessary. 

  • Member since
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  • From: SE. WI.
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Posted by mbinsewi on Monday, January 18, 2021 12:49 PM

I used left over acrylic latex flat brown from a nother project, just to give things a base color, as you are doing.

Since it's all now covered with scenery, I've had no problems.

I did have the road bed and track glued down, with latex caulk, and tested before I painted the base coat, but once the paint has dried, I don't see any problem with glueing down the roadbed and track after the painting.

I did not prime the foam.  I would'nt think it's needed.  The foam didn't really soak up the paint, it dried as if I was painting bare plywood.

Mike.

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    November 2019
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Posted by The Milwaukee Road Warrior on Monday, January 18, 2021 12:56 PM

If anyone has any suggestions for a good "earthen" color let me know.  I'm poking around in Valspar's color chart and see some possible ones that fall in the "tan", "beige", "gray" family.  Whatever I get it will be from one of the box stores.

Valspar Divine White, SW6105, HGSW4044 falls in the general tone I think of when I think "earthen".  I like the idea of CTC green for my fascia, but not sure if that will look best for the whole surface since this layout isn't in the country.

https://lowes.paintvisualizer.com/#!/active/color-wall/color/HGSW4044

edit: actually, this color may be a little closer.

https://lowes.paintvisualizer.com/#!/active/color-wall/color/HGSW3265

 

Andy

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Milwaukee native modeling the Milwaukee Road in 1950's Milwaukee.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/196857529@N03/

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  • From: 10,430’ (3,179 m)
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Posted by jjdamnit on Monday, January 18, 2021 1:40 PM

Hello All,

The Milwaukee Road Warrior
If anyone has any suggestions for a good "earthen" color let me know.

Well, that depends on the color of the earth (dirt) you are modeling.

My pike is set here in Colorado. The word Colorado is an anglicization of "The Color Red" in Spanish.

The surface colors can vary from light tans, and Sulpher yellows, to basalt blacks.

Once cuts are made in the earth the prominent color is an oxide reddish brown.

The color I used to replicate this "earth tone" in my area is "Clay Pidgeon" from True Value.

Decide what area(s) you want to model and try to get close to the base color of the earth you are modeling.

Modern paint matching abilities are amazing.

If you can find some actual samples take them to your paint retailer of choice and have them scan the colors.

The numerical values of the scan(s) will also allow you to match future batches to your particular original base colors.

Hope this helps.

 

"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"

  • Member since
    May 2010
  • From: SE. WI.
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Posted by mbinsewi on Monday, January 18, 2021 2:00 PM

The Milwaukee Road Warrior
If anyone has any suggestions for a good "earthen" color let me know.

As JJ mentioned, pick a color that is close to the area you are modeling.

Anyway, it will all be covered with scenery and pavement eventually, so it probably doesn't matter, since your setting is going to be an urban area.

Pick something that you think looks like dirt.

Mike.

  • Member since
    February 2002
  • From: Reading, PA
  • 30,002 posts
Posted by rrinker on Monday, January 18, 2021 2:21 PM

 Last layout, I just grabbed a gallon of brown-ish latex internior paint from the oops rack at the local Lowes. Covered the pink form just fine. I don't even remember which of the many lines of paint they sell it was. I suspect any latex interior paint will work fine.

                            --Randy

 


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

  • Member since
    November 2019
  • 401 posts
Posted by The Milwaukee Road Warrior on Monday, January 18, 2021 4:59 PM

The lighter beige (pushing a bit of red) reminds me more of the west and southwest.  Definitely NOT Milwaukee.  But hard to nail down what "midwest dirt" looks like lol.

Like several have said, in the end most of the base coat will end up covered with ballast, grass/weeds, and pavement with some bits of sand and coal: hardly any of it will remain to be seen.  

I will probably go with the second of the two colors I mentioned above.  Brownish-gray should work for everything, including my classification yard.

Glad I don't need to prime.

Will cover small gaps between foam sheets with painters tape.

Will probably paint all foam before laying any cork/track as that will be easier.

Thanks for the advice fellas.

 

Andy

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Milwaukee native modeling the Milwaukee Road in 1950's Milwaukee.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/196857529@N03/

  • Member since
    May 2010
  • From: SE. WI.
  • 8,253 posts
Posted by mbinsewi on Monday, January 18, 2021 8:53 PM

Yes

Mike.

  • Member since
    February 2002
  • From: Reading, PA
  • 30,002 posts
Posted by rrinker on Monday, January 18, 2021 9:56 PM

 I put my roadbed and track down first, then paited the open foam areas. Main reason - it's easier to see a track centerline drawn with a black Sharpie on the pink foam than it would be on the brown paint (my brown was kind of dark - an ideal 'earth' color would be lighter than what I used, but I wanted to hide the pink and do it cheaply. It was all going to be covered with ground cover anyway. Better to have some more muddy dark brown show through than bright pink.

 Yes, that means having to go a little slow around the track, but getting some paint on the cork roadbed doesn't hurt anything. And it still went fast (more or less 13x15 around the walls of a room, mostly 2' wide, some narrow). Didn't bother covering the rails or anything.

                                        --Randy

 


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

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