If I want to customize the size of a clapboard wall when building a laserkit or scratchbuilding, what is the best way to cut the clapboard? Should I use an X-Acto knife and a rule? A razorsaw? Thanks in advance!
I do a lot of scratch building and a new #11 blade works good for me. A couple of light cuts so as not to disturb the surface detail then get after it. Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
ChrisVAwhat is the best way to cut the clapboard? Should I use an X-Acto knife and a rule? A razorsaw?
Hi ChrisVA,
Both a #11 blade and a razor saw will work, but the razor saw is likely to leave you with an edge that needs to be sanded whereas the #11 blade should leave a clean cut. The #11 blade will also likely to make a straighter, more accurate cut provided that you are using a straight edge and repeated gentle strokes. Razor saws used free hand can wander off of the cut line very easily. With a razor saw you have to watch both the point at where it is cutting the siding as well as watching that the rest of the blade is staying lined up with the cut line. With a #11 blade, you only have to concentrate on keeping the blade next to the straightedge.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
ChrisVA....what is the best way to cut the clapboard?
I no longer use wood for building layout structures, but for cutting styrene clapboard, a #11 blade in an X-Acto handle works pretty well...
It works well on board & batten, too...
For larger structures, heavier materials, like the .060" sheet styrene used on this scratchbuilt station, require heavier tools. A utility knife and a carpenter's framing square was used to build this one...
Wayne
I find the #11 Xacto knife blade to be iffy because it is lighweight and can easily drift off the intended cut line. I prefer a light scoring with a boxcutter blade. The scored styrene sheet is easily broken with a clean snap along the cut line.
Rich
Alton Junction
I actually usually use a #10 (curved blade) when cutting clap board or board and batten.
Several light passes work well and do not damage the texture of the surface.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
richhotrainI find the #11 Xacto knife blade to be iffy because it is lighweight and can easily drift off the intended cut line.
Hi Rich,
Been there, done that! I have to remind myself to be very gentle with the first few passes. If I lean into the blade too heavily, that's when it starts to wander. Fresh blades help too.
I always cut clapboard or any other patterned styrene from the back side. That gives a cleaner edge on the front.
2002p51 I always cut clapboard or any other patterned styrene from the back side. That gives a cleaner edge on the front.
I suggest a knife, I used different blades and found the only difference is the comfort of holding them. Cut from the back side .
Use a metal straight edge, thicker is better and helps keep the blade square with the work to advoid a bevel edge. Donot use plastic or wood, the blade will grab the softer material and wander ,may lead to blood loss.
Use multiple light strokes,let the blade do the work.
A saw would work But; good luck keeping it straight, It can/will ruin the detail, the edge will be rough and need to be dressed with file/sandpaper,which could lead to excess material removed and a wall thats a couple of scale inches too short.
Also there is no way[that I found] to cut a window or door with a saw.
UNCLEBUTCH Also there is no way[that I found] to cut a window or door with a saw.
richhotrain UNCLEBUTCH Also there is no way[that I found] to cut a window or door with a saw. Use a nibbler. Rich
Use a nibbler.
I have never tryed a nibbler on wood, have you ?
A nibbler has it's place, but I found the bulk of openings can be removed faster with a knife. And less mess, no nib lets to pick up.
both methods will need clean up/dressing
My scratch building guru taught us to use a 1/4 inch chisel to cut out door and window spaces in stryene. Lay the material on a piece of wood, and tap the chisel lightly with a light hammer. Bevelled side into the opening.