I have an N scale layout project and I need to know how to make a gravel lot and how to ballast Kato Unitrack.
to the Model Railroader Forums CNW Sall Lake Spur!
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I model in HO, so I'm not at all familiar with Kato Unitrack, although it appears to have pre-attached roadbed. It's difficult to tell, from the photos I've found, if there's enough depth for ballast between the ties, but if there's room for even a thin layer of ballast, the procedure is pretty-much the same as it would be in any scale, with almost any type of track.Because your question on ballasting comes up rather regularly, I'll simply "paste-in" my written procedure for ballasting. This method is not the only way to do it, but has worked well for me.
I keep seeing comments about people dreading having to ballast their tracks, or, from people who've tried and not had success, and about what a crummy task it is. What follows is my procedure for ballasting - there are other methods that work as well, but this one uses readily-available and cheap tools and materials. And it works!The choice of ballast is up to you - I use both Woodland Scenics Fine Ballast , and real rock ballast, too, on my HO scale layout, but there are many other brands and sizes available, and plenty of colours. If you use natural materials, like sand, dirt, or decomposed rock, it's best to use a magnet to remove any magnetic inclusions that might possibly damage the motors in your locos. To ballast your track, I find that a small paper cup (such as those kitchen or bathroom Dixie cups) gives you great control over where the ballast goes. I usually move the cup along the centre of the track, tapping it as I go, to keep the ballast flowing. Less than you need is better than too much, although a soft 1/2" brush is useful for pushing around the excess or levelling what's in place. Don’t use the brush to brush the ballast around, especially the WS ballast, as it’s very light and will fly all over the place. Instead, lay the brush almost parallel to the ground and drag the ballast along. Then go back and do both roadbed shoulders in turn. Use the brush to level and re-arrange things as required, making sure to keep the ballast away from the throwbar area and the flangeways of the guardrails. To remove stray ballast from the tie tops, lightly grasp the metal ferrule of the brush between the thumb and forefingers of one hand, laying the handle across the rail tops, then, as you move the brush along the tracks, lightly and rapidly tap the brush handle with the fingers of your free hand. The stray ballast will "magically" bounce off the ties and into place between them.If you're also ballasting turnouts, make sure to keep the level of the ballast below the tops of the ties, and don't place any ballast between the ties surrounding the throw bar. To avoid gluing the points to the ties, place two drops of plastic-compatible oil atop each tie over which the point rails move, one next to each point rail, then flip the points back-and-forth several times to spread the oil. Parking the points in mid-throw will also help to ensure that they don't get glued to the stock rails, either. If necessary, use strip styrene to keep them in place.You can mist the contoured ballast using either water and alcohol, or water with a few drops of dish detergent added. Either should work, although I prefer the detergent, as it's cheaper and works just as well. I generally do fairly long sections of track at the same time, and the alcohol may evapourate too quickly to be effective over a longer period of time (I save my alcohol - not the denatured kind - for a nice drink after I've completed the ballasting.) Use a sprayer that will allow you to spray a fine mist. To avoid having the force of the spray dislodge loose ballast all over the landscape, aim the first few spritzes upward, letting the droplets fall like rain. Once the surface has been dampened, you'll be able to spray it directly. Make sure to thoroughly wet the ballast right down to the base. Not doing so is probably the main reason that many people have trouble getting a decent-looking and durable ballasting job. To apply the glue/water mixture (white glue works just as well as matte medium and is way cheaper, especially if you buy it by the gallon. Those who claim that white glue dries shiny are not using sufficient wetting agent. The proportions should be about 50/50 water/glue, although a little heavier on the water will still work well). To apply the glue mixture, don't ruin a perfectly good spray bottle (and while doing so cover your rails and anything else nearby in glue, too): instead, use a dropper. An eyedropper will work, but a plastic squeeze bottle with a small nozzle will be much faster. Simply move along the track, as quickly as necessary, allowing the glue mixture to drip onto the ballast (or ties - you won't see it once it dries). You should be able to see it being drawn into the ballast due to the wetting agent. I usually do the area between the rails first, then the sides in turn. The glue mixture will spread throughout the ballast and down to the roadbed, so make sure to apply enough to allow this to occur. The result will be ballast bonded solidly in place, yet with the appearance of loose, individual pieces.Where I have scenic areas adjacent to, but below the level of the track, I also apply the basic ground cover, which also helps to soak up the excess glue that spreads out from the ballast line. If you're applying ballast (or ground cover) to steeply sloped areas, use a suitable-width brush to apply undiluted white glue to the slope before applying the ballast or ground foam, which will help to hold everything in place while you apply the wetting agent and the dilute white glue (these steps help to bond the top layers of material to those in contact with the unthinned glue, and also help to draw that glue up into the top layers).Depending on how deep your ballast and adjacent scenery is, the glue may take several days to dry. Don't touch it while it's still wet (you'll make a mess) and wait until it's dry before cleaning the rails - I used a mildly-abrasive block intended for polishing electrical contacts.
Here are a few photos, illustrating the process on HO scale track atop cork roadbed.
This is the dry ballast (real rock) as it looks when first applied...
...and after grooming with the brush...
Here, the "wet" water has been applied...
...and then the diluted white glue...
Here, much of it has soaked in, and has spread out beyond the edges of the ballast...
...and a couple of days later, after the ballast is rock-hard and the rails cleaned of glue residue...
Areas like this, where the ballast and sub-strata is deeper than usual, the drying time may be a week or more...
Wayne
CNW Sall Lake SpurI have an N scale layout project and I need to know how to make a gravel lot and how to ballast Kato Unitrack.
Kato Unitrack has the ballast already there. Adding some gray ballast along the edges helps a bit. Kato sells a matching colour of ballast for this.
Did you mix another brand of track with the Kato track and want to ballast it to match? If so, following Wayne's advice with the Kato matching ballast should work well.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Good catch Kevin.
Mr. Wayne did a wall of text and many pictures for a scenario using non-Kato track.
Kato Uni-track has ballast molded into the base. One could ether paint the base so look a little better or paint it and add a think layer of ballast if there is room for it between the ties.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
riogrande5761Kato Uni-track has ballast molded into the base.
I personally often notice the gaps between sections in this kind of track system if they are left 'unpatched' -- the problem being they are even more noticeable if you try to 'dutch over' the joints. When I built with this [type of system -- EDIT in O scale, which probably makes a difference] I slightly cut back the joint area to get a little of the matching ballast in (using a cruder version of Wayne's methods ... use his.)
The fun comes when he wants to mix some manner of flexible track in with the Unitrack [or similar sectional]. Then, having the 'compatible' ballast on hand, and tools to cut roadbed or sub grade to match the profile of the molded Unitrack, may be a good idea.
Just as a thought: I believe the Kato tie strip comes out of the Unitrack base, so at least theoretically -- if Kato flex has comparable tie-strip dimensioning -- you could cut the base into short sections, file the cut edges, and get an approximate subgrade matching up with Unitrack at the ends for a custom-fit section. You would then have to relieve the edges and add ballast as above to get a smooth look...
Overmod When I built with this I slightly cut back the joint area to get a little of the matching ballast
Please share some photographs of this process.
I have used HO scale Kato Unitrack for ages, and I can not picture the improvement you describe. Some photos would help.
Overmod I believe the Kato tie strip comes out of the Unitrack base
No it does not, at least not on HO scale Unitrack.
SeeYou190Please share some photographs of this process.
There's really no single "best" method for ballasting. I use a couple of alternatives, both involving the "wet water." I don't use a sprayer. I usually ballast as the last scenery step, so spraying would possibly mess up other scenery. Instead, I use a pipette, basically a hobby version of an eyedropper. This lets me control application much better.
I have tried dish soap and dilute alcohol, but since isopropyl alcohol is very cheap anyway, I've moved over to just using it straight from the bottle. I found that this has the added advantage of drying much faster. It's usually dry overnight instead of waiting several days to a week.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Agreed that there's no perfect way to ballast. DOing it is enjoyable for some and not for others. I personally enjoy the work b/c the layout looks more realistic (IMHO).
Thanks Dr. Wayne for the pics and thorough explanation.
OvermodI don't have any 'handy' out of storage, but I think I can get a couple of pieces and some supplies and 'gin something up that shows it. Key will be assuring the 'matching ballast'.
OK, but I do not see anything very offensive in the regular Unitrack joints. I cannot imagine building a joint that looks better.
Actually I don't see anything wrong with that joint either. If I wanted to pay the price for that foolproof stuff I may have thought of using it. But I like Flex track and making my own curves
After seeing Kevin's pictures the only thing I would like to see is a good enough matching ballast as I've heard they do have. The edges would look better a little more curvy and swervy spreading down steeper inclines to make it a little more realistic.
Other than that I heard you get what you pay for with that stuff, if you want to spend the money.
As far as seeing that minoot crack in the joint, I do believe I would have to grab my reading glasses and stick my head into the picture. At that point I might as well check out the road numbers of the cars while I'm in there
TF
Track fiddlerAs far as seeing that minoot crack in the joint, I do believe I would have to grab my reading glasses and stick my head into the picture. At that point I might as well check out the road numbers of the cars while I'm in there
Yes, and in a scene, the track joints are nearly invisible. Kato really makes an excellent product.
This is something I cannot see very much room for improvement with. I am interested in the pictures of what Overmod does to improve it, or even better, why bother, what does he see so wrong with this product.
I cannot see the extra effort being worth it.
SeeYou190This is something I cannot see very much room for improvement with. I am interested in the pictures of what Overmod does to improve it, or even better, why bother, what does he see so wrong with this product.
I did presume a little, in that the OP said he wanted to know how to 'ballast' the Unitrack. That suggested to me that he found the 'stock' appearance somehow less suitable to his taste. Perhaps he will comment specifically on why he asked the question the way he did.