Hand Laying A Crossover - Help, Tips, Tricks?

[Anonymous]

I have a location on my layout that requires a custom built crossover.

I've handlayed turnouts before, and have found lots of resources on that, but I'm not able to find much information on crossovers.

My main concern is the areas where rails of opposite polarity come together at an angle. How are these areas handled. Seems like an option would be to ACC a peice of styrene at the point and then file it as necessary, but I'd like to hear from someone with experience with this.

Anyone know of a good primer available online, or elsewhere that deals with this?

John
Underhill, VT

[Leon Silverman]

John:
I assume you are talking about single crossover, made from two left hand or two right hand turnouts. If you were using commercial turnouts that used all metal frogs, such as Shinohara or Walthers, you would simply connect the two turnouts together with insulated track joiners on BOTH rails. The other rails going into the frog opposite from the point end of the turnouts would also have to be gapped (the same way you would insulate a single turnout).
This would also apply to custom built turnout since you would be still be using an all metal frog construction.

[Anonymous]

Oops, big space out on terminology here. sorry.

I meant "Crossing", not "crossover", such as a big "X".

Commonly available sizes are like 19, 30 and 45 degrees and I need a custom angle.

Geez, maybe *that's* why my goole searches aren't giving me much. :)

Sorry 'bout that.

John

[Leon Silverman]

If I hadn't read you question twice, you would already have the answer;
You hit the nail on the stryene. The rails do have to be insulated from each other. Just look at the pictures of commercial crossings (Atlas) or look at a sample in your LHS. The inside rails have to be powered from one side only if you are going the insulating styrene route.
If you want to go the all metal route, where the guard rails are soldered to active rails, then each internal (inside the diamond) rail (with it's guard) has to be gapped. The outer rails will also have to gapped. This crossing will be electrically dead unless the isolated sections are powered separately and polarized to match the polarity of the approaching train.

[dehusman]

If you are using DCC, look into powering it with a "reverse loop controller" as written in RMC. Really a neat solution to keeping the polarity straight through the crossing.

Dave H.