I want to have a backdrop for my structures that I can paint (maybe light blue with clouds). I also want to photograph my strucutres in front of it and have it look good. What is a good material to use for this?
Thanks!
Hi Chris
1/8 Masonite would work well. It's most commonly used for backdrops. One nice feature is you can curve it around a corner as Wayne showed in another thread. Then your background scene will appear continuous in your photos as long as you're lighting is good.
Sounds like a good project. Post a picture when you get it done.
TF
I used 1/8" smooth hardboard (Masonite) for the backdrops on my photo-diorama. I had no problems in the two years I was taking pictures this way.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
How large is your diorama? If it's light enough for you to carry, you could always take it outdoors, and use the real sky as the backdrop. Depending on the weather, you could have a very large selection of "skies" with which to work.
My layout is an around-the-room type, and most of the backdrop is the drywall, painted three shades of blue (one blue, altered twice with varying amounts of white). The photo below shows a partial second level being added to the layout, and the coved corners...
The room is a somewhat odd shape, with 10 corners, 7 of them inside corners, common to most rooms, and three outside corners, handled somewhat differently...
Most dioramas, unless they're fairly big, wouldn't likely need the coved corners, which would need some additional bracing to create the curves, whereas the walls of the room make it quite easy to do.
I drywalled the entire room using 1/2" drywall applied vertically, which takes advantage of the boards' tapered edges, but did all of the corners, for at least one spacing of the studs, using 3/8" drywall.I then used a tape measure, curved at each corner of the room, to measure the approximate length of 1/8" Masonite needed to fit - each corner varied somewhat, depending on the stud spacing at each corner.To install it, one edge of the Masonite is butted against the edge of the 1/2" board on one wall, then, while holding that edge in place, the remainder of the Masonite is pushed in the middle, forcing it until is snaps into place against the edge of the 1/2" material on the adjoining wall, as shown in the drawing below...
I then drilled the edges of the Masonite in order to install drywall screws, and used a countersink to allow the screwheads to be countersunk. The joints were then mudded (green in the drawing) and taped (the red) as would be done for any drywalling job. The layout room was drywalled over 30 years ago, and, to date, not one crack anywhere.On a portable diorama, it may not be so permanent, but other options could be use, such as sheet aluminum or sheet styrene, the latter being available in 4'x8' sheets, in various thicknesses. I use the .060" thick sheets, mainly for building large HO scale structures.
Used as a backdrop, it's stiff enough to stand using fairly light bracing, and easy to bend into fairly tight tight curves, although the broader the curve, the less it will appear as a curve in a photo.
Wayne
For my backdrop I used .060 styrene sheet which I obtained for a very good price at a warehouse for sign makers. One advantage over masonite is that since my layout is small I needed to cove the corners with a smaller radius. With styrene sheet I made my radiuses about 8". I then painted the styrene with various shades of light blue and then sprayed on some white clouds with light gray highlights.
I'm using hardboard, I think it's actually 3/16", because that's what Lowes has.
Curves into the corners just fine
I used two coats of the high hide primer, and the blue then covered in one coat. Next time I go downstairs I can check the name of the color I chose. I had it made with not the cheapest base, but the next one up. Didn't think the two even more expensive options were worth it.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Remeyer53....One advantage over masonite is that since my layout is small I needed to cove the corners with a smaller radius. With styrene sheet I made my radiuses about 8"....
I use a lot of .060" sheet styrene for scratchbuilding, especially for larger structures, and have gone through at least 5 or 6 4'x8' sheets of the stuff.
If you use 1/8" Masonite, it'll bend down to at least an 8" radius, too, as that's what you see on this corner of the layout fascia...
...and I think this one is pretty-much the same...
For me, the advantage of the Masonite for the coved corners of a backdrop is the fact that drywall mud sticks to it rather well, especially if it's been roughed-up a bit with some sandpaper.
1/4" thick drywall is lightweight and takes paint extremely well. With a little care, it should last a long time, too. If the backdrop is long enough, you shouldn't have to worry about curving it around the sides of the diorama.
Hornblower
I bought a backdrop for my diorama. My diorama is 48" x24" for taking pictures. The backdrop is 5' x 3' made of Polyester and can be either folded or rolled up.I purchased it here:https://www.buy-backdrop.com/durable-vinyl-backdrops-vinyl-backdrops-spring-mountain-theme-photo-hot-sale-backdrop-prop-for-personal-photo-p-3837.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIooLyotqi6wIVfh6tBh1vXgPOEAQYASABEgLMIPD_BwE
I just hang it on the wall behind my diorama. Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.