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Cab control panel wiring

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  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Cab control panel wiring
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, January 11, 2005 10:28 PM
I am trying to build a detachable control panel for my small and transportable n scale rr. Bought Radio Shack pin connectors, male and female. Wires can be crimped into the pins, which are then inserted into snap-together mulit-connection nylon plugs. A neat idea, but I find them very hard to work with. I even bought an expensive crimping tool and am having a hard time. [:(]Anyone know an easier way to hook wires together so they're easily unpluggable? [?]Probably asking for a miracle here![:)]
  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: Crosby, Texas
  • 3,660 posts
Posted by cwclark on Wednesday, January 12, 2005 3:53 AM
use a four pin mic jack..i use them for my walk around throttles and they work great...you can order them from www.partsexpress.com just type in "4 PIN MIC JACK" in the search block and a list of them should appear.... after this click "connectors" and you will also need the CB MIC PLUG 4 PIN FEMALE connector from another list that will appear...the 2 components (the male and female end) that make the connection are sold separetly but they aren't that expensive.... Chuck

  • Member since
    November 2002
  • From: Winnipeg, Manitoba
  • 1,317 posts
Posted by Seamonster on Thursday, January 13, 2005 3:29 PM
You could try automotive trailer light connectors, obtainable at any automotive parts store. You should be able to get them with up to 6 or 8 connectors. They come in male/female pairs, usually with the wires continuous between the two rubber-covered connectors. The wires are usually colour-coded. Cut the wires mid-way between the connectors and solder your existing wires onto them. Insulate the connections with electrical tape or shrink tubing. Use the connector with only one bare prong at the control panel end of the connection, and if possible, use the bare prong for a ground or common conductor.
...Bob

..... Bob

Beam me up, Scotty, there's no intelligent life down here. (Captain Kirk)

I reject your reality and substitute my own. (Adam Savage)

Resistance is not futile--it is voltage divided by current.

  • Member since
    August 2003
  • From: Northeast Houston
  • 576 posts
Posted by mcouvillion on Thursday, January 13, 2005 7:32 PM
geoeisele,

I've used the computer cable connections (9-pin and 25-pin) on several occasions and had no trouble. It's a little bit of a nuisance to install the wire in the pins (solder, don't crimp), but if you tin the wire first and then slip the connector over the tinned wire end and re-heat, they usually connect just fine. You will need to keep track of which wire goes to which pin number, but other than that, it's easy. Connect the wires to terminal blocks under the edge of the layout and then go to whatever from the terminal blocks. You can make the wire pigtails as long or short as you need.

Mark C.
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, January 14, 2005 5:25 AM
I know it is not what you are asking but howmis your railroad " portable"

Kristian
  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: North Central Illinois
  • 1,458 posts
Posted by CBQ_Guy on Tuesday, January 18, 2005 1:25 PM
In the "old days", many modelers used what were called "Jones Plugs".

SEE: < http://www.flashbacksales.co.uk/acatalog/6_pin__Jones__Plugs.html> for a very good closeup photograph. These should be still available locally and I know Radio Shack "used" to have them, though I haven't checked there in several years.

I don't know what the maximum amount of "pins" available per connector would be, but they were often used between layout sections, for example. Available in inline male and female, and there's also a panel mount female. These connectors are very robust.

Hope this helps.
"Paul [Kossart] - The CB&Q Guy" [In Illinois] ~ Modeling the CB&Q and its fictional 'Illiniwek River-Subdivision-Branch Line' in the 1960's. ~

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