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Starting with a switching module
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<p>[quote user="BigDaddy"]For benchwork I am considering a 2x6-8’ based on the plywood construction method in this article[/quote]</p> <p>Do 2 separate 4'x2' modules. Way easier to move. You might consider going slightly wider than 2', maybe 30' for some stability. 2 ft will work with properly gusseted legs and a level and relatively hard surface. </p> <p>[quote user="BigDaddy"]I am undecided whether to cover the plywood with cork or use foam. 6” of foam with a sheet of Masonite underneath(as suggested in another thread) would only be .21 psf lighter, by my calculation and more than twice the cost of ¼ ply[/quote] </p> <p>You dont need 6" of foam for a switching module. Use 2" or 1" instead. They come in 2" Deep x 2' (or 4') x 8' sections, get the Dow Blue stuff. Put that over a sheet of 1/4" plywood. Attach the foam with liquid nails LP-903 or wood glue. Use lots of weight to hold the foam down until the glue/adhesive sets. </p> <p>Put cork over the foam. For a yard or industrial area consider cork sheet instead of individual track cork. If you want the track inset, use nscale track cork under the track and ho scale sheet cork next to the track (see the MR Rice Harbor Project layout).</p> <p>For moving concerns either a) move it yourself, b) build a cover for your modules, or c) accept the damage done by movers. B sounds like the best choice to me. </p> <p>Check out my clubs modular layout standards here: <a href="http://www.mprr.org/docs/MPRRModuleConstruction.pdf">http://www.mprr.org/docs/MPRRModuleConstruction.pdf</a></p> <p>Towards the end it describes covers (page 19 or 20). These 4ft modules can be picked up and carried by 1 person, more so if only 24" wide. They are also durable and survived the trip from Connecticut to Cleveland, Ohio for the 2014 NTS. </p> <p>Go with detachable wood legs in your case instead of the metal ones described for our modules.</p>
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