Crazy Idea for Retainng walls

[SpaceMouse]

I'm building a mountain layout and there are a lot of places that I could use rock retaining walls. Now I've seen these in the hoddy shops for about $12 for a 5" section.

It seems to me that I could buy one of those, make a mold and cast plater of paris to make up as many as I need. Has anyone done this or similar?

[orsonroy]

You'll find that this is a VERY frugal hobby at times Mouse! Lots of modelers have done just what you're thinking about, and many more have cast their own retaining walls by scratchbuilding a master out of balsa wood, with pencil line scribed stonework. Check out Hobby Lobby for RTV moldmaking supplies (heck, you could even make clay molds if you wanted!)

[Anonymous]

The December Model Railroader had a good article about modeling stone with balsa wood. The technique described consisted of removing the eraser from a pencil and using the remaining metal holder to stamp the stone impression into the wood.

In place of balsa, I've used DAP Lightweight Spackling which I've spread over Fiberglas screening, covered with thin plastic and used a rolling pin to create a 1/8" sheet. Remove the plastic and let dry. It forms a slightly flexible sheet. I lightly stamped the stone pattern into the sheet Since it will stretch a little while stamping, I cut the pieces out when the whole sheet was stamped..

Try this or another technique for making your own stone walls. There are so many better uses for the $12 .

Wayne

[timthechef]

I baught modeling clay and carved my own modular wall set that I could cast over and over again. I also carved some of my wall in place by spreading drywall spackling over plastic cloth and carving the stones. This has worked really well.

[Anonymous]

Plastistruct also has a line of styrene sheets that are formed in the shape of various types of rock. A little cutting, a little painting, a little weathering, and they make a pretty good retaining wall.

[steel]

I just tried an idea that I read about in MRR. Used alum. foil, crumpled it up and sprayed with wet water and filled with plaster. Worked great. Folded some in tiny folds like an accordian and came out with some great looking layered rock. You can make any size you require this way.

[SpaceMouse]

QUOTE: Originally posted by steel

I just tried an idea that I read about in MRR. Used alum. foil, crumpled it up and sprayed with wet water and filled with plaster. Worked great. Folded some in tiny folds like an accordian and came out with some great looking layered rock. You can make any size you require this way.

I love the idea, but I'm not sure where to get wet water.....[:o)]

[56chevytimes2]

I think wet water is water with a coulpe of drops of liquid dish soap in it. helps the water flow better , if that makes sence.


Kurt 56chevytimes2

[SpaceMouse]

QUOTE: Originally posted by 56chevytimes2

I think wet water is water with a coulpe of drops of liquid dish soap in it. helps the water flow better , if that makes sence.


Kurt 56chevytimes2

It does. It increases the viscosity.

[Anonymous]

A couple of drops of isopropyl alcohol in water have the same effect.

[CBQ_Guy]

Scenic Express is selling some long (20 inch or so, IIRC) sections of retaining wall.

You can also purchase some latex molds for making your own plaster walls from Dave Frary's website at:

http://www.mrscenery.com/BRM2004.pdf

Hope this helps!

[steel]

Also, a source for some of the most realistic rock formations, retaining walls, etc. that I have seen is Ultimate Scenery Center, 819 Harmon Avenue, Columbus, OH 43223. Phone No. 800 989-2154.

They are constructed from Polyurethane and include instructions for making a master mold from them. He also sells latex, mold release, etc.

[dehusman]

The absolute el-cheapo est way to make stone or concrete retaining walls, bridge abutments or tunnel portals is to buy damaged 1/2 in drywall. Draw the stone pattern on the face. Carve through the paper with a hobby or utility knife on the stone patterns. Then use the tip of the hobby knife to pick the paper off. If you want smoother stones, brush with a wet 2" paint brush. Paint it with a base coat of latex paint (cheap white interior latex tinted with craft store acryilic paints, 99 cents a bottle type). After the base coat dries, use thinned washes of the craft paints to stain the rocks vaious colors. When dry glue or plaster in place.

For a couple bucks you can get a 2x4 piece of drywall, throw in $8-10 for paint and you can retaining wall up a storm.

Dave H.

[Anonymous]

I just happen to have 2 gals. of wet water left if you need some

[bpickering]

QUOTE: Originally posted by SpaceMouse

QUOTE: Originally posted by 56chevytimes2

I think wet water is water with a coulpe of drops of liquid dish soap in it. helps the water flow better , if that makes sence.

It does. It increases the viscosity.

Um, sorry, don't mean to be too technical/picky, but that's mis-leading (in cause, not result...) on two accounts:
1) doesn't change viscosity significantly. That is, the water pours/sprays just as easily as before (rather than becomming "thicker", like honey...)
2) the liquid soap reduces the surface tension. That is, there is less tendency for the water to "ball up" into droplets, and so it will coat the surface better, just as it will penetrate powdery/granular materials (like ballast, ground foam, etc.) better.

Brian "Ex-Physics Professor" Pickering

[Anonymous]

QUOTE:
Um, sorry, don't mean to be too technical/picky, but that's mis-leading (in cause, not result...) on two accounts:
--snip--


Brian "Ex-Physics Professor" Pickering

So may we call you Brian Nit-Pickering? :)

Sorry, couldn't resist.

Physics...ugh... almost flunked me outta Penn State, it did...

John

[SpaceMouse]

QUOTE: Originally posted by bpickering


Um, sorry, don't mean to be too technical/picky, but that's mis-leading (in cause, not result...) on two accounts:
1) doesn't change viscosity significantly. That is, the water pours/sprays just as easily as before (rather than becomming "thicker", like honey...)
2) the liquid soap reduces the surface tension. That is, there is less tendency for the water to "ball up" into droplets, and so it will coat the surface better, just as it will penetrate powdery/granular materials (like ballast, ground foam, etc.) better.

Brian "Ex-Physics Professor" Pickering

You know when I wrote that I had a nagging feeling something was wrong with what I said. I even pictures Chem class where we read the miniscus (sp).

[bpickering]

QUOTE: Originally posted by johnhaas
So may we call you Brian Nit-Pickering? :)

Sorry, couldn't resist.

Physics...ugh... almost flunked me outta Penn State, it did...

Nah, just call me Picky. [:p] Don't worry... there was a period of time during grad school at UCD where I was worried about the same.

It's no wonder that people look at me strange at parties. [}:)] You can take a prof out of the classroom, but it's hard to take the lecturer out of the prof. [:D]

Back On-Topic:
Physics aside, these ideas are good. I'm also toying in my mind with, for some variation, making up a section of LOG-based retaining walls as well, then making a mold based on them. I'm thinking of a couple of scenarios in lower-traffic areas- near the mine on the current "luggable" layout, as well as along the shortline portion of the "future dream" layout.

Brian "Dreaming of RR, sitting at work" Pickering

[simon1966]

Someone was demonstrating carving retaining walls out of blue foam board with a hot wire tool at a recent train show. The effect was very good and aside from the cost of the tool, the cost was minimal as he was just using small scraps.