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Foam As A Sound Deadener

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  • Member since
    September 2013
  • 2,505 posts
Foam As A Sound Deadener
Posted by caldreamer on Wednesday, April 15, 2020 8:19 AM

I have always used homosote as the sound deadener on all of my previous layouts, but ther price has gotton outragous.  I am wondering if foam sheet would work as well?

Lowe's has 3/4" thick 4X8 sheets for $12.98.  I can cut it to the widith that I need 

  • Member since
    July 2007
  • From: Yorkton, Sk, Cnd
  • 441 posts
Posted by wvg_ca on Wednesday, April 15, 2020 9:43 AM

yes, foam does work as a sound deadener but ..

it should be used with  slightly flexible adhesive, both top and bottom ..

note that elmers white glue is rigid ...

  • Member since
    September 2013
  • 2,505 posts
Posted by caldreamer on Wednesday, April 15, 2020 10:53 AM

I think that a silicone adhesive should work.

  • Member since
    May 2010
  • From: SE. WI.
  • 8,253 posts
Posted by mbinsewi on Wednesday, April 15, 2020 11:00 AM

Try the silicone on a test piece, to make sure they work together, I use latex caulk.

Mike.

  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Vancouver Island, BC
  • 23,330 posts
Posted by selector on Wednesday, April 15, 2020 12:14 PM

The pilled styrofoam will probably be very quiet.  Don't use it.

The extruded foam will be like a drum skin.  It will be probably be noisy.  Use it instead.

As a previous poster suggested, use a caulk that stays pliable to adhere the extruded insulation foamboard to its supporting structures.  Then, when you go to lay tracks, have something else, a different density, as a roadbed to get the mains off the general surface level (you want your mains elevated above the surrounds like the prototype does).  And, use a caulk, or something compatible with the foam, to adhere the roadbed to the foam.  

Note that, if your ballast grains, when groomed to shape, fall against the foamboard, and you glue the ballast to hardness, the passing trains' vibrations and noise will be transmitted to the surface of the foamboard which, as I stated, is like a taut drumskin.  So, my suggestion is to make the roadbed material (drywall strips are excellent for deadening noise, plywood, or other foam/homabed) wide enought that all of your ballast will fall on it and not transmit noise to the foam below.

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: 4610 Metre's North of the Fortyninth on the left coast of Canada
  • 9,352 posts
Posted by BATMAN on Wednesday, April 15, 2020 1:13 PM

If you want 0 noise use cement board. I cut mine with my circular saw.

Brent

"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."

  • Member since
    November 2002
  • From: "Steel, Steam and Thunder"Fort Wayne, Indiana
  • 1,177 posts
Posted by TheK4Kid on Tuesday, April 21, 2020 1:23 AM

I built my layout with two inch pink foam board from Menards.

I made three 6 ft wide by 8 ft long tables.

Legs bolt on.

Made a bed lattice type cross beams from 1 x 4 lumber.

My layout is 6 feet wide by 24 feet long.

It is in my basement, and if I would ever move, it will easiy come apart and can be carried by two guys up the stairwell in 3- 6 ft by 8ft sections as each table is fairly lightweight.After all under table wiring was in place, I hand stapled some fiberglass insulation rolls , just tacking them in place. between the lattice work.

I can easily undo them to make any changes under the tables.

I have no sound problems at all.

MY two outsie mains are Atlass #100 with large radius at each end.

My theme is the PRR in the mid 1940's to late 1950's.

And since Unce Sam just gave me $1200 , I can add a few more goodies!

My avatar is the New York Central 21st Century Limited running alongside the PRR Broadway limited coming out of Englewood Illinois.

I jave a large copy of the painting that will hang in my train room.

The painting is titled "Steel , Steam and Thunder"

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