As I plan the benchwork for a basic 4X 8 Model RR "starter" layout, I am confused as to the height....I've heard and read differing opinions ranging from 36" to 48"..Several mentioned that eye level is best...Access to the board for working, repairing is also an issue. What do you guys prefer and why?? That will help this novice plunge into building the benchwork....Thank you...
The first questions that come to my mind are how tall are you and what is your reach? After those comes what type of operations do you want?
If you want a lot of switching, you may need to be lower to be able to reach in to uncouple. If you are going to be mostly railfanning, up nearer eye level might be a better option. Is it city scenes with tall buildings or open country with few trees and other obsticles for your arms to hit.
Another consideration is your reach. Most figure about a 30" reach is best, but there again what is on your layout makes a difference. Tall buildings or fragile trees in the foreground and you need to lower your level so you can reach in. Problems will always occur at the most difficult places to reachl
I know that doesn't answer many questions, but it gives you some things to think about.
What I plan to do is have the layout so that when I sit on my tall stool, I'm nearly at eye level, when I stand I get a birds eye (maybe a drones eye in this era) and can reach in to work on the layout and operate turnouts.
Good luck,
Richard
EDIT: If you are especially tall or short and plan to have others come in to operate with you, you may need to make some other adjustments. Will your children or grandchildren be operating with you? Remember it's your layout first.
R
cowman has provided a helpful response.
In my case, I am 6' tall, so my layouts have all been 36" high which permit me to work under the layout and to reach into the layout, By the way, for me, the reach-in maximum is 38" to 40", and the true practical reach-in for working purposes is 32" to 34".
Rich
Alton Junction
I make a new plan for my layout in N scale.
My "0" level or sea level of the layout is at 52" from the ground
Maximum elevation will be at 69" and minimum at 48"
Course N scale seems better when put higher because of the small scale, but in HO too for my point of view.
Mine is at 50", I like the view, and all the switching takes place in the front, within easy reach.
If I need to reach back further, I have a small stool I use.
Mike.
My You Tube
Hi jjo
cowman has sumed it up pretty well.
The ultimate best height is a very individual thing
I am fairly short and need to reach the middle of a 4'6" square board so mine is about 45 " high.
I need a step stool to do scenic work at the back of the layout because of a raised section hiding a fiddle yard, so I chose the operational need to reach the fiddle yard over the need to work over the raised section to do scenic work as to which was more important.
regards John
The bases have been well covered in prior responses -- are you tall or short, will you stand or sit, is it for you or also for kids, and so on.
I'd just say I think there is an ideal height for building the layout - laying and wiring the track (which can involve leaning over a good distance), making scenery, that sort of stuff -- and possibly an entirely different and likely taller height for operating, particularly if you need to see the reporting marks on the sides of cars, or want a realistic "scale person's" view of the trains.
Another factor is lighting. I built my layout pretty tall. And I have flourescent light fixtures essentially every other suspended-ceiling tile, with exceptions due to ducts and the like. The layout is tall enough that even very generalized flourescent lighting tends to shine more brightly right below the fixture (incandescent is even more directional that way). If the layout was a bit lower it would be more evenly lit I suspect. But my back would rebel.
I suggest setting up a card table and then piling on large cardboard boxes of various heights and perhaps setting a foot or two of track on top, maybe witha snap switch or whatever, with freight cars on the track. Try coupling and uncoupling and throwing the switch and reading the reporting marks on the cars. I think you'll quickly find the "right" height without spending time or money on guessing.
Dave Nelson
For small layouts that are 4x8 up to 5x12, I prefer a comfortable height for sitting at the layout and operating from a comfortable chair. This works out to about 35 inches for me.
Paul
I stand. 48"
I watched a recent Ken Patterson video and someone had an upper deck at 60". Good for him, with a bad rotator cuff, I can't easily scenick at that height.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
I built a multi deck layout once........
It actually had visable decks at four levels, and hidden staging at the lowest level.
There was no helix, it progressed - a nolix.
The basic bench work levels were: 32", 38", 48", 54"
No trackage on the 54" level was measurably above 55". There was purposely very little switching on the top level.
Before the layout was complete, I became unhappy with the multi deck concept.
The new layout, currently on the drawing board (literally), will not be double/multi decked.
So I am working on the layout height question myself, and currently thinking 36" or 38" for the lowest track elevation.
The highest track elevation will be about 9" above the lowest elevation.
So, even a little lower for "zero" is not out of the question.
The main yard is at +2", zero migh work as low as 32" above the floor?
Still pondering sitting/standing, stools/chairs, etc.
Sheldon
ATLANTIC CENTRAL Still pondering sitting/standing, stools/chairs, etc. Sheldon
I prefer standing but like to keep a drawing office chair handy for extended operating sesions.
The chair sees more use at the moment with the stay at home rules.
My sugestion would be have a chair you find comfortable handy for those I must sit down for a bit moments.
They get more common as you get older.
Having a space I find comfortable to play and build trains works for me.
Agree the sitting vs standing is an issue to consider....I'm 5-10" and think I will be standing most of time....Repairing/maintenance/improving is another issue i plan to be doing continually...Also have a 9 yr old grandson and its important that he be able to see the train operating. Suppose its an individual thing and eye level is key but that won't work for all ages. Thanks for your responses....I'll continue to follow this thread..Thanks
Still pondering and trying.....Thanks for your input...Going to test a few options...A happy problem.
I have been working on my track plan a lot recently and track elevations from the floor of 36" for the lowest and 46" for the highest are starting to feel right to me.
This will put the main yard at 38", and most of the industrial/engine service trackage between 37" and 40". These areas will be in front for easy switching.
Almost all my aisles are 4' or more, only a few spots get down to 3', so the idea of both sitting and standing has a lot of appeal.
Toying with adjustability in case I change my mind later....Hmmmm
I built mine at 36" with some 3/8" threaded furniture leverers to allow for uneven floors. (The bedroom floor of my old apartment where this layout was started was very out of level.) That height allows me to get underneath as needed,to sit for certain situations and to stand if I have to work on something.
jjo Toying with adjustability in case I change my mind later....Hmmmm
Rich, I've seen that done..I'm thinking of more basic leg levelers or build my own with 2X sliding stock on side..Still thinking....
jjoAlso have a 9 yr old grandson and its important that he be able to see the train operating
My opinion is that you should make the height suit you. From what I've seen, kids either get tall or lose interest. I wouldn't want to get stuck with a too low railroad if that happens. That's why they make tall chairs, stools, ladders, and so forth.
jjo Rich, I've seen that done..I'm thinking of more basic leg levelers or build my own with 2X sliding stock on side..Still thinking....
hi jjo
The adjustavble feet on my layout are just 3/8 "T" nuts with a 3/8 nut and bolt with a thread all the way up it, the extra nut is so I can lock it off once it is level.
Nothing fancy but it works for sufaces needing protection caster cups can be put under the feet or you would use proper adjustable feet with an extra nut instead of bolts.