rrinkerThe problem is, a 1" screw will penetrate even accounting for the thickness of the bracket, and a 3/4" I don't think is long enough, not when subject to a force trying to pull it straight out.
I used these angle brackets for critical joints.
I attached them to my 1x3's with 1-1/4" #8 flat head machine screws, washer, nut and a dab of blue Loctite.
I have the right to remain silent. By posting here I have given up that right and accept that anything I say can and will be used as evidence to critique me.
3/4" wood screws would work better with those, as they have chamfered holes. The brackets I got are more intended for framing, where they would be nailed instead of screwed. What's odd though is compared to some others, they are thicker, more like yours than the many other types of framing angles.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
rrinker3/4" wood screws would work better with those, as they have chamfered holes.
The flat head machine screws fit perfectly in the chamfered holes.
The only problem with that is I want to put a bracket on both sides - so the screws from one side would interfere with the bracket on the other. ANd trying to position everythign precisely so that the holes line up from oen bracket, through the wood, and into the other bracket, with the bracket sitting perfectly at the end - yeah, that's too much work. ANd to use them to attach to the verticals - then I have to space them out from teh wall with enough space to clear the nut and washer or the screw head and washer, dependin on which way I ran them in.
rrinker I want to put a bracket on both sides
Why? The wood would break way before the bracket. Brackets on both sides will actually be weaker because you're putting twice as many holes in the wood which is already the weakest link.
rrinkerso the screws from one side would interfere with the bracket on the other
With a bracket on both sides, the screws for one bracket will interfere with the screws for the other bracket.
rrinkerI have to space them out from teh wall with enough space to clear the nut and washer
I use 1" wood screws when attaching a bracket to a piece on the wall. I don't care if the screw puts a dent in the drywall. I attach the grid to the wall (at studs) - no need for verticals. Almost all of my cross members attached to the edge board on the wall are done with pocket hole screws.
I only use the brackets to attach edge boards to other edge boards - where the grid turns a corner.
For your situation where you can't put a screw in the end grain, I'd just use 2x2 glue blocks on both sides with screws in from the front and a pair of 3" screws through one block, through the cross member and into the other block. Cheaper, easier, faster and stronger.
I understand you can't find good dimensional lumber, but it doesn't have to be real straight if you cut into 3" blocks.
There's no need to go into the end grain - I was putting the bracket on the side, so screwing in to the face of the vertical, as well was the face of the rib.
Definitely the screw would pull out of the vertical long before it sheared off the rib, doing it that way.
I was pretty much planning to do just that - use a 1" screw and the heck if it poked a little hole in the drywall. I can certainly do it with one bracket, if it seems like it needs more, then it will already line up with a second bracket on the other side.
In my case, this is the ONLY thing holding the layout up, I wasn't going to put any legs under it. Max 24" depth, and that only by the yard, most of it will be 18" and under. I CAN'T put legs under the second deck, and it does need to come out as far or almost as far as the bottom deck for the lighting to work right. But there will be a lot less track on the upper level.
rrinkerThere's no need to go into the end grain
Not in the bracket scenario, but if you could screw into the end grain, you wouldn't need the brackets.
The front of my ribs (good term) are attached by running 2" screws through the front edge board into the end of the rib. The good lumber I can get here in Richmond (sorry for gloating) will countersink the head of my Spax screw before spinning the threads in the end grain of the rib.