Hello, I'm wanting to create another 4x8 Layout, the first Was started in around 2010 with my grandfather, however I'm wanting to create another one with my Friend Don (or Dad as I should now call him, my mother remarried a few days after Christmas) I've been wondering what weight diffrance there is to a 1/2" sheet of ply, a 3/4" sheet of ply or should I go thinner (the problem with the last one was weight and I want this layout to be light as possible, but still durable) and brace the plywood with brich 1x2s a 1/4" sheet of ply and go with foam Layer on top that is 3/4" thick I'm hoping to get started around 5 oclock eastern standard time so any comments before than and after will be warmly recived
I'm using 2x4 tables (4) one as an example (Not seen, still trying to figure out a subscription to Model Railroader)
Thanks for any help, its really appriciated
I'd love to go into the 2020s the same way as the 2010s building a 4x8 layout with a family member
Safety Valve I've been wondering what weight diffrance there is to a 1/2" sheet of ply, a 3/4" sheet of ply
About 20 lb difference.
1/4" seems a little thin, but it would probably be OK. Use 1x4's and build a frame for the plywood, with joist every 16", and fasten the plywood down every 8" or so, between screws, flat head wood screws. Screws would be better than nails.
Cost wise, OSB woud be cheaper, it's about the same weight as plywood. With OSB there is a rough side, and a smooth side. Put the smooth side up.
You'll lots of different answers on this.
Mike.
My You Tube
1/4" ply with 2" extruded foam on top - that will be fairly light. See the vatious threads on using adhesive caulk to attach roadbed and track to the foam, since nails won't work.
1/4" plywood by itself is too thin and will sag. 1/2" is acceptable.
ANother option is to put plywood only where the track will run, and use extruded foam to fill in the open areas to build the scenery on.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
rrinkerANother option is to put plywood only where the track will run, and use extruded foam to fill in the open areas to build the scenery on.
That is a good option. Saves lots of weight.
Too heavy, there's a complaint not often seen. I used a variation of this MR plan with 1/2 plywood benchwork, 1/8" luan plywood, either from the Home Depot scrap box or stuff I had on hand and 2" foam.
The whole article is here
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
My first HO scale layout was a 4'x8' on 1/4" Firply, with 1"x4" framing 16"o/c. Never sagged in the 10 or 12 years I had it, and was in good shape when it was sold.
It was an oval with two reverse loops, one of them elevated, a three-track yard and a locomotive servicing track. Turnouts and uncoupling were remotely controlled using wire linkages.
Track was Atlas flex (brass rail on fibre ties) with Atlas turnouts built from kits, although one was scratchbuilt by my father.At that time, foam wasn't an available option, so the elevated reversing loop was on more 1/4" cut-out plywood, supported on wooden risers - it ran on the outside of the oval, crossing the mid-point of the layout on a scratchbuilt truss bridge and a scratchbuilt wooden trestle - all of it built by my father.
I'm not sure that I'd bother with the foam on a 4'x8' though, unless you're planning on some fairly dramatic scenery.
Wayne
If weight is an issue, than the easiest way to create a incredibly strong "table" is a 4" thick piece of 4 by 8 ft. Styrofoam insulation board, to which a 1/8" sheet of hardboard is glued on the underside for protection. The sides require also protection.
Happy times!
Ulrich (aka The Tin Man)
"You´re never too old for a happy childhood!"
If you are goiong to use plywood, of any quality and thickness, it's a good idea to seal t he plywood before building on it. This way if your scenic materials are wet, they are less likely to effect the surface of the plywood.
My first layout came all built with the used train. It was 3/8 (?) plywood, braced with 2x2's, fully painted and sealed. Never any warping or seperation problems, despite being stored in some pretty damp areas.
Good luck,
Richard
Lots of options. I use 7/16 (half inch nominal) for flat surfaces like yards sandwiched with Homasote; but for subroadbed that's on risers, I'm planning on a little thicker with the 5/8' thickness. I'm not worried about being light weight because my sections aren't being moved much.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
For a 4 by 8 framed layout, 1/2" plywood should be completely fine.
.
-Kevin
Living the dream.