Hi There!!
If I were to use Hardboard as my backdrop and/or fascia, and I wanted to "round off" the corners of my room and layout.....what is a good radius to use? Or to ask in another way and more specificly, how tight of an arc can I bend the hardboard? The thickness is slightly less than 1/8". Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Mike
Hey Mike-
I used 1/8" masonite hardboard for my fascias, and the tightest radius I had was about 14". I think I could've gone as tight as 12", but I chickened out. A few clamps and an extra pair of hands would be helpful.
I also kinda 'pre-conditioned' the bends by hanging the fascia strips between two supports and letting them sag under their own weight (plus a few lead-shot-filled weighted leather pouches). I did not sawcut any kerfs in the back or soak the boards or anything like that. Also, I'd suggest doing the work on a warm day.
Good luck. I hope this helps.
Robert
LINK to SNSR Blog
I usd 1/4" for my backdrop and I bent it until I could just start to hear it complain. 1/8" should bend tighter than mine.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
I used 1/8" Masonite (a brand of hardboard) for both my layout's fascia and for the coved corners of the backdrop. The smallest of the radii shown is, I think, about 8".
Here's the same area as the previous photo, but after the partial second level was put in place...
My layout room is an odd shape, with 7 inside corners and 3 outside ones, and while the entire room is drywalled, I coved all 10 corners by using 1/2 drywall (applied vertically) for the majority of the room, but for at least one stud-spacing from both sides of each corner, used 3/8" drywall. To create the coves, I used a tape measure to roughly measure the length of each curve , then cut a piece of Masonite about 2" longer. The piece was then set in place, with one side abutting against the thicker drywall. I then pushed the centre of the Masonite towards the corner, imparting a curve, which allowed the free-side of it to snap into place. Here's a drawing showing the set-up....
...the red line represents the drywall tape, the green is the drywall mud. I used a countersink to allow the drywall screws securing the Masonite to sit flush, or slightly below, the surface of the Masonite.
Here's an inside coved-corner, split to allow installation of a partial second level of the layout....
...and an outside corner, which also accommodates a drain pipe...
The layout has been in place for close to 30 years, with no cracks at any of the corner coving, nor in any of the wall joints.
Wayne
I have a 5' x 9' or so HO layout and used Masonite (1/8" I guess) for fascia & backdrop. On the back corners, the curved portion I recall is about 11" radius. The curved portion sits (unattached) atop the plywood tabletop, and the adjacent taller parts of the Masonite piece extend downward and are screwed to the table frame back & side pieces as fascia/backdrop in each direction.
I do not remember these curves as stressing the Masonite severely.
20190712_083658 (2) by Paul Ahrens, on Flickr
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
One thing I learned is that hardboad is different in different parts of the country. In California it dose not bend as easily as in other states do to restrictions in what can be used as a binder.