Hello!! its been a while ain't it....? I was wondering what is the best thickness of plywood for a 40" x 60" layout?? I'm hoping to build one at some point that is portable, for home use mostly... thanks for any ideas! It will be Tri-ang and Hornby (Plus a little "Converted" Hornby Dublo) stock that run on it, I'm hoping to use two rail (1st Radius)
We just beat on that dead horse.
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/277312.aspx
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
47/64ths...plus or minus .016". Then you can decide if you want to add extruded foam insulation over the top of it or not. If not, it will still make a very sturdy surface for you and your layout.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
For something to be portable and moveable? Skip the 3/4" plywood, even a 40"x60" slab of that is too heavy. 1/4" plywood and soome extruded foam. Light and easily mooved, and the layer of thin plywood will allow for attaching unter table things like switch motors. Or if not using any under table switch motors - just the extruded foam is fine. You do need some cross braces, not just a 40x60 perimeter.
He said portable, people. Not a step stool or 'permanent' layout.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I agree with Randy on this one. A perimeter frame of 1"x2" lumber, with 3 or 4 crossmembers of the same size will be plenty sturdy enough with a 1/4" plywood top. I'd skip the foam, though, unless you want to use it to vary the elevation of the terrain.
Wayne
Now for the really radical, there's the foam and luan monocoque method used to make modules by the Sippin' & Switchin Society of North Carolina. A regualr module is almost light enough that a strong breeze might blow it away, yet they are strong enough to handle setup, teardown, storage, and hauling around to variosu shows. No reason why their design couldn't be widened out to 40"
Here's a site that shows how to build them:
http://sandsofnc-module-building.blogspot.com/2011/
rrinker Now for the really radical, there's the foam and luan monocoque method used to make modules by the Sippin' & Switchin Society of North Carolina. A regualr module is almost light enough that a strong breeze might blow it away,
.
That is a great method for building portable displays. The experiences I have had with this construction technique match yours.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Hi there. The answer to the question would really depend on what you mean by "portable". Does it mean that it needs to be stowed away in an upright position? Would you need to carry it to another location? And what are your expectations with respect to scenery? How often does it need to be moved around?
Simon
Hello All,
Again, what is your bench work construction?
One more time...
My 4'x8' pike sits on top of the bed in the spare bed-, computer-, railroad-room. There was no under layout access.
I recently replaced the externally braced 5/8-inch Medium Density Fiber Board (AKA: particle board) base with a 1"x2" framework with cross cross members at 32- and 64-inches respectively.
There is also a center line stringer of 1"x2"s tying the cross members together.
Now the base consists of 1/4-inch plywood under the original 1-inch blue foam.
Or...
rrinker...foam and luan monocoque method used to make modules...
I screwed the plywood to the frame work and then screwed the foam to the plywood.
If you want to make your pike "portable" you could make the framework, then attach the foam to the plywood.
Then the base of foam/plywood could be attached to the frame with screws or pegs.
The 1-inch blue foam is 2'x8' tongue & groove. The plywood is two half-sheets; 4'x4'.
For more mobility you could make the roadbed two 4'x4' sections or 4-2'x4' sections.
Legs for support can easily be attached to the 1"x2" framework with diagonal bracing.
For more rigidity the framework could be made of a 1"x4" frame with 1"x2" cross members and stinger.
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
Inquiring minds want to know what people thought was impossible but you made work.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
riogrande5761"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry" Inquiring minds want to know what people thought was impossible but you made work.
I would build this as 2 units each 20" x 60". That way you can carry them through doors without having to turn them vertical. You can also store them on shelf brackets.
As suggested above, build a framework of 1x2's covered by 1/4" plywood.
Good luck
Paul
One additional point........if this layout is a stand alone and you have no plans to enlarge it down the road, then 1/4 inch ply is fine (with adequate bracing). But if this is the beginning of a larger layout, then I would go with 1/2 inch.
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
@jj
Some of the things you listed may sound undesirable but certainly not impossible.
Someone said that was inpossible? Really? I'd think you get steeper than that on small over and under layouts. Scratch it off the list.
Meh, not my cup of tea but sectional track is/was made in 15 sizes so scratch that off the list.
Simple way of getting "easements". Scratch off the list.
The rest are similar to the above, certainly not worth of calling "impossible". If thats all there is, the siggy is kind of a "straw man". The examples above aren't anything that anyone should have said was impossible.
So someone said it was impossible and the siggy is still there year after year? Talk about rubbing it in! Even if that person is still around, you've made your point eh?