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Please Critique this yard layout

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  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Rimrock, Arizona
  • 11,251 posts
Please Critique this yard layout
Posted by SpaceMouse on Monday, January 3, 2005 11:11 PM
AS most of you know I'm about as green as broccoli when it come to layouts. Anyway, I put together this best guess yard in the space I have. I probably made about as many rookie mistakes as I can make, but if you don't tell me about them, I'll never know until it is too late.

Thanks

Chip

Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.

  • Member since
    February 2004
  • From: CN Seymour Industrial spur
  • 262 posts
Posted by Dayliner on Tuesday, January 4, 2005 1:31 AM
Hi SpaceMouse,

I'm no expert, either, but I've learnt the hard way what works and what doesn't in yard design. The best place to start is to remember what a prototype freight yard is for. On our model layouts we sometimes end up using yards for storage or display, but on the prototype, freight yards are strictly for sorting (classifying) cars by destination. The idea is to keep cars moving through the yards as fast as possible, and the key to that is capacity. Capacity is measured in two ways: number of tracks ("width"), and length of tracks. Both dimensions are crucial.

To figure the number of tracks in your yard (width), think about where cars will be going from this yard. This doesn't necessarily mean the total number of destinations, but perhaps the number of "groups" of destinations, each of which would be handled by a particular train or "job". For instance, on my layout, cars in my freight yard could logically leave in three ways: (1) in the road job running to the other end of the line; (2) in a local "turn" that runs part of the way to the opposite terminal and then returns; (3) in a local switch or transfer job that handles the local industries and interchanges. Every car that enters the yard will leave by one of those three "routes". Therefore I need a minimum of three classification tracks in my yard, one for each "routing". I say "minimum" because if I wanted to get fancy I could further classify one or more of those basic classifications, but I don't really need to because my layout isn't that big. In addition to those classification tracks, it's a good idea to have a separate arrival/departure track (in a pinch you can use the main track for this, particularly if it is a terminal yard, but I wouldn't recommend it for a through yard). As well, you need a way to get engines and cabooses (if you use them) on and off your trains. That means an engine escape track (which could be something as simple as a crossover from your arrival track to the main track), and a caboose track, which ideally would be connected at both ends so cabooses can "roll through" and go out in the same order they came in. I did not include one of these and it is always an unbelievable headache trying to find somewhere to put the caboose before I start sorting the cars. So in an ideal world my basic yard with three classifications would include a minimum of five tracks plus a main track.

Now to length. Figure out your maximum train length (this is determined by the length of your sidings along the line). Double that, and add some, and that will give you an approximation of the length of your yard. Don't do what I did, and deliberately limit yard length in order to make operation more "interesting". "Interesting" is not the word that comes to mind when I pull into my yard with a road job and have nowhere to put the cars because every track is clogged with an outbound that has to be doubled onto two or three very short tracks. Figure on double your maximum train length because the most efficient way to switch a train is to pull the whole thing out of your arrival track, and then shove each car or cut of cars into the appropriate classification track. You want to do this on a "switch lead" or "drill track" which should be able to hold your longest train plus a switcher, and which should allow trains to arrive and leave without tying up switching operations. You then need to add extra length to account for the "ladder" (those turnouts into the class tracks) and the engine escape (turnouts plus length of engine or units you normally run). The bad news is that can get pretty long, even in N scale (which I use); the good news is we can run those tracks parallel to the main line, or put them on a curve (within reason, although it's not very realistic), or inside a loop, as you have done.

Well, that's the theory at least (or as much of it as I think I know). Looking at your plan, and without knowing the particulars of your layout or your operating scheme, or even the scale of your drawing, I would suggest turning it into a double-ended yard. That is, add a ladder to join those three tracks at the bottom left end together, and to the main track. This will give you much greater operating flexibility. Another suggestion is to add a drill track separate from your main track. The most logical place for it to go would be the area marked "river bed", so this may require some re-thinking of your scenery. Finally, I wonder about that crossover from the upper yard track to the main track. I'm not sure what it adds operationally (again, I say this in ignorance of your operating scheme). If the track is full; then the crossover can't be used; if the track is to be kept clear so the crossover can be used, then you've lost a classification track.

Of course, given my own less than stellar track record in the matter of freight yard design, you may want to take everything I say with at least a teaspoon or two of salt. However, we are supposed to learn from our mistakes, and perhaps you can learn from mine! I (and probably others) would be interested in hearing about your operational scheme; perhaps we could then offer more detailed and helpful comments.

Best of luck with your layout!
  • Member since
    August 2003
  • From: Midtown Sacramento
  • 3,340 posts
Posted by Jetrock on Tuesday, January 4, 2005 2:41 AM
I'm not really sure how the track plan as shown is supposed to be a yard--there seem to be a few spurs sticking out in either direction, and a passing track, but not really much of a "yard" as such.

In general, I try to make yard tracks as long as possible, but also as straight as possible. This makes them easier to use--yards on curves can be very difficult to operate. Also, while a double-ended yard is nice, a long single-ended yard (with a couple of escape tracks) can be quite sufficient for a small or medium-sized layout.

You don't really need a separate siding for a passenger station unless you are modeling a large depot: at small stations, the train simply stops on the mainline for the few minutes needed to board and drop off passengers.

Take a look at published track plans. Take a look at real railroad tracks, if possible. Take note of what you like and don't like. Read up on how yards work and their basic elements (the NMRA Layout Design SIG is a good place to start.) Then draw lots and lots of plans! (I spent a year or so in staff meetings drawing track plans before I started on my current layout...)
  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Michigantown, In
  • 78 posts
Posted by foxtrackin on Tuesday, January 4, 2005 4:18 AM
Model Railroader has a book out by Andy Sperandeo called Freight Yards that might help you learn more about how freight yards work. Also it shows how to model yards.
  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Rimrock, Arizona
  • 11,251 posts
Posted by SpaceMouse on Tuesday, January 4, 2005 5:34 AM
Thanks guys.

When it comes to yards, I really don't know what I am doing. However, I do have a plan. The plan is to get the whole family involved to a certain extent in the train project--which may or may not happen. My wife and to a certain extent, my 12-year-old daughter, is a professional artist. The only involvement she would have in the project is asthetics. My daughter and my 7-year-old autistic son are both Harry Potter fans. So there is a blending themes here. The main purpose of the layout is to provide several loops that my son can drive his Hogwarts Express over. The "yard" is almost an after-thought, but not really.

The layout is basically an irregular shaped U. The side you see is 11.5 feet long and the base is also 11.5 feet long. These to sides are to be a Northern California Coastal Mountain theme. The other side of the U is 6.5 feet and will be where Hogwart's Castle will be. Hogwarts is on a lake and the lake will be the natural divider between England and California. Tracks will cut of a slice off the lake and on the other side of the tracks from Hogwarts will be a saw mill with a small spur.

If you look in loop area, there is a section marked for expansion. Once the U is done, I can add a 30" by 72" section that will be nothing but yard. So the yard you see, as you correctly called it is both a pass through and a small freight yard. In reality, it's purpose is to allow me to figure out how the engines cars and tenders work by switching my steam engine from passenger to freight and back again--and quite frankly to learn how to couple and uncouple cars without putting them on by hand.

The suggestion about not needing a turnout for passengers is good because I can then use the area to further expand my practice yard.

I know I have a lot of learning to do.

Chip

Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.

  • Member since
    August 2003
  • From: Midtown Sacramento
  • 3,340 posts
Posted by Jetrock on Tuesday, January 4, 2005 8:47 PM
I think last month's MODEL RAILROADER included an article about 10 tips for better yards--I highly recommend checking it out!

Yards are used to classify rolling stock and make up trains. They have a secondary purpose of storing unused rolling stock, but that is generally discouraged (anything sitting in the yard isn't out making money for the railroad.) Yards tend to be sets of parallel tracks--my main critique of your yard is that there really aren't any parallel tracks to speak of, thus making use of the yard much more difficult.

If your intention is to learn how to couple and uncouple cars, you'll want STRAIGHT, not curved, track to do it on. Curves (unless very broad) make it very difficult to uncouple, because of the added tension on the couplers due to them not being head-on.

A better use of the space might be achieved by:

First, get rid of that connection between the "yard" area and the track running in back. It probably wouldn't work out anyhow, because the track in back is at a higher elevation and you want your yard to be flat.

Second, put a long passing track in the foreground--this will allow you to pull a passenger train into the siding to pick up and drop off passengers, as well as being useful as a passing track or runaround track.

Third, replace the track in the middle with a simple single-ended ladder yard, of 3 or 4 tracks, with the track as straight and level as it can be. Include an escape track (a passing track just above the ladder) and you've got a serviceable yard. A yard lead would be nice but you can do without it if only one operator will be running at once.

Will the layout have any industries?
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, January 4, 2005 9:40 PM
I agree with Jetrock. I really would hesitate to discribe the track plan you posted as a "yard". The articles and books recommended above are great for learning about and planning for modeling yards. Do check them out. It sounds to me more like you're seeking a "round and round" type of train running so you can involve your son, daughter, and Harry Potter! In that case you may not need a yard as such. I am pleased to hear that someone is involving thier family, including the kids, in their train project. Strong families that bond together in some way absolutely have to be a great idea.

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