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Scenery and Vertical surfaces

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  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Ridgeville,South Carolina
  • 1,294 posts
Scenery and Vertical surfaces
Posted by willy6 on Sunday, March 24, 2019 8:49 AM

On flat scenery my methods of adding turf or grass is to spread down some white glue, sprinkle on the scenery particles, then let dry and vacuum or brush leftovers. When it come to vertical scenery, what is the best method to do this being there is a gravity problem. I was thinking of modifing a type of airbrush where I can spray it on the wet glue. Another thought I had was to sprinkle the scenery on a plate, then blow it on the surface with a blow gun. Any ideas would be appreciated.

Being old is when you didn't loose it, it's that you just can't remember where you put it.
  • Member since
    May 2010
  • From: SE. WI.
  • 8,253 posts
Posted by mbinsewi on Sunday, March 24, 2019 9:05 AM

I like your plate idea.  I'm not sure what you would need a grass effect for on a vertical surface, but I've done the illusion of distant trees, brush, etc., by sticking foliage to the back drop with the tacky glue.  It's still there after 8 or 9 years.

Maybe you can brush on the adhesive, or use a spray type adhesive such as 3M, instaed of an air brush.

Or maybe you could pre-finish some type of matt material, like this:

Sepetated into thin sheets, and painted like this:

And covered with the grass of your choice, and then glue that to the vertical surface.

The above is what I used for general, all-over ground cover, textured with grasses, etc., and then glued to a painted base.

Just some thoughts,

Mike.

  • Member since
    December 2015
  • From: Shenandoah Valley
  • 9,094 posts
Posted by BigDaddy on Sunday, March 24, 2019 9:11 AM

willy6
blow it on the surface with a blow gun

Pneumantic compressor or Amazon poison dart gun?

Gerry Leone's trick for getting ground foam close to buildings and such is to put it on a piece of paper, folded down the middle and blow it parallel to the fold, with the now, politically incorrect, soda straw.  Probaby not allowed in California.  

For truly vertical surfaces, I think of rock rather than grass, or bits of follage

Henry

COB Potomac & Northern

Shenandoah Valley

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: west coast
  • 7,588 posts
Posted by rrebell on Sunday, March 24, 2019 10:15 AM

Yah the left out here in California has gone a bridge too far in my opinion. That being said, what do you mean by virtical, like on the backdrop or vertical stuff on rock formations. For backdrops I allow an inch so that I can put hills etc. made out of carved foam covered in plaster cloth and then sceniced off the layout laying the peace horizonaly depending on the material and the look I am after. For vines and stuff on rock faces the blow meathod works great on white glue.

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
  • 6,526 posts
Posted by RR_Mel on Sunday, March 24, 2019 10:33 AM

When I scenic steep slopes I use the same method I do for flat scenery.  I use hair product applicators.
 
 
I cut the nozzle off to increase the diameter of the hole depending on the density of the scenic material I want to apply.  I fill the bottle to 50% to 60% with the material, shake the material toward the nozzle end then squeeze and the air in the bottle will shoot the material out like paint spray.
 
 
I’ve been doing that for over ten years and works better than any sprinkler type applier I’ve ever used.
 
I also use the applicator bottles for applying glue and stains.
 
 
The bottle above is smaller and the nozzle is also very small allowing an easily metered amount of liquid out.
 
I apply all of my scenic material using the above method and find it super easy as well and more efficient saving the flocking material too.
 
The harder you squeeze the bottles the more pressure and quantity of material sprayed.
 
When applying glue I use cheapo brush from Harbor Freight to distribute the glue where I want to apply the scenery.
 
 
Working on a close to vertical surface I dribble the glue above the area to be flocked and spread the glue with the cheapo brush.  At less than 9¢ per brush I don’t worry about cleaning the glue from them.
 
 
 
 
 
 
Mel
 
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
 
  • Member since
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  • From: SE. WI.
  • 8,253 posts
Posted by mbinsewi on Sunday, March 24, 2019 10:34 AM

I see lots of "alternatives" straws are popping up in stores.  I seen a neat assortment of supposedly stainless steel "straws", that I just had to have, for uses other than straws.

But I digress.

Mike.

  • Member since
    February 2018
  • From: Flyover Country
  • 5,426 posts
Posted by York1 on Sunday, March 24, 2019 10:44 AM

RR_Mel
 
 

 
Mel,
I really like your gravel road.  For some reason I really struggle making them look like yours.

York1 John       

I asked my doctor if I gave up delicious food and all alcohol, would I live longer?  He said, "No, but it will seem longer."

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
  • 6,526 posts
Posted by RR_Mel on Sunday, March 24, 2019 10:59 AM

I use Arizona Rock & Mineral for all of my roads.
 
 
When the material is about 70% dry I have a couple of clunker Hot Wheels vehicles that I roll down the roads to put in ruts.
 
Using a fine tip on the bottle with grass and dirt flocking I touch up the roads a bit.  All of my roads are made using the hair applicators to dispense the glue and material then working it with taping knife and a clay modeling tool.
 
 
 
Mel
 
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
 
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Clinton, MO, US
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Posted by Medina1128 on Sunday, March 24, 2019 11:12 AM

I brush on straight white glue, then apply the scenery material by folding a 3x5" index card. Put some scenic material in the fold of the card, then apply it by softly blowing through a coffee stirring straw. When the glue sets up, I then dribble diluted white glue on it.

 

  • Member since
    November 2005
  • From: St. Paul
  • 821 posts
Posted by garya on Sunday, March 24, 2019 1:10 PM

mbinsewi

I like your plate idea.  I'm not sure what you would need a grass effect for on a vertical surface, but I've done the illusion of distant trees, brush, etc., by sticking foliage to the back drop with the tacky glue.  It's still there after 8 or 9 years.

Maybe you can brush on the adhesive, or use a spray type adhesive such as 3M, instaed of an air brush.

Or maybe you could pre-finish some type of matt material, like this:

Sepetated into thin sheets, and painted like this:

And covered with the grass of your choice, and then glue that to the vertical surface.

The above is what I used for general, all-over ground cover, textured with grasses, etc., and then glued to a painted base.

Just some thoughts,

Mike.

 

What paint do you use on polyfill?  Spraypaint?  I haven't had much luck coloring it.

Gary

  • Member since
    May 2010
  • From: SE. WI.
  • 8,253 posts
Posted by mbinsewi on Sunday, March 24, 2019 1:56 PM

Yes, spray paint.  I give it a coule coats, from each direction, and I might mix in another green or two, just for contrast.

I used the camo stuff, and flat paints.  After the paint drys, I use the spray adhesive to add different ground cover textures, and then use the same spray adhesive to fasten the pieces to the layout.  All of the basic ground cover on the lay out I did using this.

I cover good sized areas at a time.  After that, the srubs, trees, etc., etc.

I have recently aquired a static grass applicator, and I'm anxious to play with it, and add more ground effects.  I haven't used it yet, on any of the lay out.

Mike.

 

  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Bedford, MA, USA
  • 21,349 posts
Posted by MisterBeasley on Sunday, March 24, 2019 4:17 PM

My layout is mostly flat, but for my small vertical spaces I like rock castings.  I have some of Hydrocal, but lately I have been using Bragdon foam castings, although those are more time consuming.  They do look great and they're very light weight.

It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse. 

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Bradford, Ontario
  • 15,592 posts
Posted by hon30critter on Monday, March 25, 2019 1:44 AM

Henry, Mike, Mel,

All your scenes look great!!

Dave

I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!

  • Member since
    February 2008
  • 2,320 posts
Posted by kasskaboose on Monday, March 25, 2019 9:23 AM

Such helpful tips!  The suggestions here are beneficial to me since I have vertical rock croppings and hiils to replicate southern VA.  That area is very pretty, but a challenge to model.  I like replicating the scenery using straw parts to blow the grass and ground foam around. 

  • Member since
    May 2010
  • From: SE. WI.
  • 8,253 posts
Posted by mbinsewi on Monday, March 25, 2019 9:31 AM

Thanks Dave.

Mike.

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