Faller glue

[Santa Fe all the way!]

Thought I'd give the faller glue a try as I like the needle applicator. Does anyone know the difference between the blue and orange bottles? 

[mbinsewi]

Take a look at the Faller site.  It says the orange sets quicker than the blue.  Not diffucult.

Mike.

[Santa Fe all the way!]

Thank you, I should have thought of that , senior moment I guess

[Tinplate Toddler]

I use Revell glue. It also has a needle applicator, sets in a short time and is much cheaper than the Faller stuff!

[dknelson]

I never heard of the Faller cement until I saw an instructional video DVD about how to build Design Preservation Model kits by noted modeler Miles Hale and he used Faller Super Expert cement.  # 170490 (orange label).  When I asked for it my LHS the fellow behind the counter told me more and more modelers were asking for it.  (Of course maybe they all had borrowed the same instructional DVD with Miles Hale 

Perhaps chemically it is the same stuff as other makes but I like it.

Dave Nelson

[gmpullman]

When Tenax went belly up (the second time) I made the rounds of some of the alternate cements out there including my own recipes.

I like the Faller Blue (slower) and orange (faster) and also the Tamiya Extra Thin cement, too. They all have different properties and I use them for different setting speeds and types of joints. To me, the Tamiya is "almost" as good as the old Tenax.

Faller also makes an "Expert Laser Cement" which is a type of PVA that I like, too.

I keep a length of .010 or .015 (I forget) wire in the needle to help keep it open.

You really have to shop around for best price and shipping can be expensive due to the VOC labeling.

Plastruct Bondene and Ambroid Pro-Weld are also good, but "hot and fast" and may distort very fine, thin section plastics.

Good Luck, Ed

[Santa Fe all the way!]

gmpullman

When Tenax went belly up (the second time) I made the rounds of some of the alternate cements out there including my own recipes.

I like the Faller Blue (slower) and orange (faster) and also the Tamiya Extra Thin cement, too. They all have different properties and I use them for different setting speeds and types of joints. To me, the Tamiya is "almost" as good as the old Tenax.

Faller also makes an "Expert Laser Cement" which is a type of PVA that I like, too.

I keep a length of .010 or .015 (I forget) wire in the needle to help keep it open.

You really have to shop around for best price and shipping can be expensive due to the VOC labeling.

Plastruct Bondene and Ambroid Pro-Weld are also good, but "hot and fast" and may distort very fine, thin section plastics.

Good Luck, Ed

 

Thanks for the info, I was going to ask if there were any tricks to keeping the needle applicator from clogging. I believe I have some brass wire that size. I got this Faller orange label glue for $10 shipped off of eBay, I guess I'm going to get a bottle of the Blue Label too. 

[Tinplate Toddler]

I am not going to tell you that I pay less than $4 for that stuff!

I don´t like Faller´s Laser Cut glue - it´s too runny and should not used for card board laser cut kits.

[gmpullman]

Tinplate Toddler

—it´s too runny nand should not used for card board laser cut kits.

Many of the laser-cut parts have peel-n-stick backing. This adhesive backing is fine to hold the part in place but it doesn't make a permanent bond as far as I'm concerned.

The Faller, needlepoint Laser glue traces along the edge of the thin sectioned parts and seeps into the joint. Any excess is absorbed into the edge-grain of the wood or "micro-board" and becomes practically invisible.

I guess there's a glue for everyone and this one is not suited for you.

I may use six or more types of adhesives while building a cardstock/wood/fiberboard/paper/acetate laser kit.

I traced along every edge of this "concrete" DL&W tower to help seal the edges and gaps before applying a second coat of primer. I prime all the pieces while still on the fret, too.

DLW_tower5 by Edmund, on Flickr

When I do want thicker glue I like Weldbond.

Faller plastic cement is $4.US, plus shipping at MB Klein. I buy several bottles along with other items to mitigate the already reasonable shipping cost.

https://www.modeltrainstuff.com/faller-170492-expert-normal-setting-plastic-cement/

Cheers, Ed

[Tinplate Toddler]

Ed,

The Faller Laser Cut glue worked fine with wood or MDF, but softens card board due to its high content of water, as it is nothing else than diluted white glue.

[gmpullman]

It would probably be most economical to keep a stock of thicker PVA such as the Weldbond and thin it as necessary with distilled water.

There are many needlepoint dispensers available if one shops wisely.

https://www.howardelectronics.com/industrial-needles/

 

Thank you, Ulrich.

Ed

[maxman]

gmpullman

There are many needlepoint dispensers available if one shops wisely.

The cannabis oil products line looks interesting.

[dknelson]

maxman

The cannabis oil products line looks interesting.

 

 

Dave's not here, man.

 

Dave Nelson

[BigDaddy]

dknelson

Dave's not here, man.

[dknelson]

Santa Fe all the way!

I was going to ask if there were any tricks to keeping the needle applicator from clogging.

My LHS guy said to shake the bottle.  That works if the bottle was recently used.  This may violate all notions of safety and wisdom but I unscrew the top from the bottle (and the threads are backwards from American practice so it took me a while to learn to do this!) and I hold a match to the tip of the applicator.  A brief flame and the clog is opened up. 

I have taken to storing the bottle sideways and fortunately so far have not had a leak or problem.

Dave Nelson

[Pruitt]

I like the very low viscosity cements like Tenax and Plastruct Bondene. When I need some extra working time, like when I'm splicing two pieces of plastic together with a backing plate, then I'll use a thicker glue. When I'm doing that I'll use good old Testors stringy model cement.

I've tried Faller blue label, and to me it's just garbage. It's too thick to flow well into joints, and it does not seem to hold well, I found. It dries slower because it's more viscous than most liquid glues. I was using it to build my Walthers roundhouse, but when installing the front doors and frames, it didn't work worth a crap. So it's relegated to the "when-I've-run-out-of-everything-else" pile at thi point.