I was looking for images of custom builds/modifications to the Walther's kit "Allied Rail Rebuilders" . I didn't find much during an image search??
I would have thought I would find more. Anyone have some?
Brian
My Layout Plan
Interesting new Plan Consideration
Mine will be a machine repair shop to support the Hulett Ore Unloaders
Hulett_Machineshop by Edmund, on Flickr
Hulett_shop3 by Edmund, on Flickr
The actual Hulett machine shop looked pretty close:
Hulett_Machine by Edmund, on Flickr
I'm not going to chop out the front wall for the crane bridge, though.
Regards, Ed
Great start Ed!. Mine is still in the box, cellophane intact. Kind of like my eyes were bigger than my layout?
Mike.
My You Tube
mbinsewiGreat start Ed!
I recently picked up this steam hammer and annealing oven to try to squeeze in the shop, too.
https://www.goldenvalleyhobbies.com/80109-auhagen-ho-steam-hammer-and-accessories
Thanks, Mike Me too on the structures. They ALL look so cool.
Cheers, Ed
WOW, thanks gmpullman. That one video link posted lead me to your video on the Broadway Ltd turbine locomotive. What a great video and great layout you have.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CJ73dotqoIU
Per my posting over on the 'steel mill scene' subject thread,...
B&O fabrication shop
One of those tracks also feeds a 'fabricator' of steel parts,...that is represented by the 'rail rebuilder kit' from Walthers with the addition of a outdoors overhead crane out front. This structure could alternately be that Vulcan manufacturing kit from Walthers. I just happen to run across this image and thought it added to the 'industrial image' I'm trying to establish there.
So I think my 'fabricator' could be one that built and repaired steel railroad cars and steam engine parts.
Needs to have a small foundry on one side to account for the mutiple smoke stacks added to that one side of the original kit, and to account for some of those big parts on the steam locos.
And it might be nice to have a damaged (or newly built) B&O wagon-top caboose, or B&O wagon top box car out front, or along the side.
The steel B&O wagontop caboose,...
In the 1930’s the Baltimore & Ohio Railroad began experimenting with new car designs in an effort to save money and keep their own employees employed. One of the more successful designs, and one that became a signature design for the B&O, was the wagontop design. In 1935 and 1936, the B&O applied this design to about 7 cabooses and each had its unique traits. These first designs were classified as I-5. In 1941 the B&O applied an improved wagontop design to a new, all steel caboose and it became known as the I-12 wagontop caboose. In all, the B&O had 125 of these cabooses constructed in two separate batches http://www.springmillsdepot.com/i-12main.htm
In the 1930’s the Baltimore & Ohio Railroad began experimenting with new car designs in an effort to save money and keep their own employees employed. One of the more successful designs, and one that became a signature design for the B&O, was the wagontop design.
In 1935 and 1936, the B&O applied this design to about 7 cabooses and each had its unique traits. These first designs were classified as I-5. In 1941 the B&O applied an improved wagontop design to a new, all steel caboose and it became known as the I-12 wagontop caboose. In all, the B&O had 125 of these cabooses constructed in two separate batches
http://www.springmillsdepot.com/i-12main.htm
I have a number of these cabeese,...love the design.
I understand they were special reinforced steel design so pusher engines could be used with them.
Thanks, Brian!
Many railroads had to increase structural integrity of their cabooses for helper use. PRR had substantial vertical crash posts on their cabin cars, too. I recall there were some states that mandated a wood caboose could not be occupied while a helper was pushing. The helper would have to be cut-in ahead of the caboose. Wasting more time and you couldn't cut the helper off on the fly, either.
A railroad car rebuilding shop would make a good model scene. I have several ads from carbuilders that would sell "kits" to the railroads, side panels, underframes, ends, etc. and the railroad's own shop crews would build the cars. Also, in the 1950s many railroads were busy stretching forty-foot box cars into fifty and sixty footers.
Bethlehem_car_ad by Edmund, on Flickr
For a while I believe Walthers was marketing the Vulcan or Allied roundhouse machine shop? as a passenger car overhaul shop for tourist railroads. I'll have to look that up.
https://www.walthers.com/railcar-restoration-charter-shop-building-kit-13-5-8-x-8-3-4-x-5-1-8-quot-34-6-x-22-2-x-13cm
Ed, your railroad is amazing. Every video I've seen contains new details to find. Your layout captures the "feel" of big time railroading like no other. How many years has it taken you to get to this level of completion?
Ray
Ed, did you see this?
WOW, great blog, great projects, great photos
What a great blog you have here Greg. I have learned a lot, and I have to come back and read more as I work on building my new layout in its own dedicated train shed.
What I also find very interesting is the manner in which I discovered your blog. Its a result of my finding a few of your images of overhead cranes during a web search I was conducting using bing. Otherwise I may have never found your wonderful submissions.
Creating a concrete pad for the boiler shops overhead crane Tue, 2015-08-18 22:30 — skiwiggy Before I moved the layout to its new home a year ago, I made sure certain sections including track would be easily removed and re-installed. One of the buildings, the boiler shop with its overhead crane could not be completed because it sat right on one of the bench work separation lines. I have been looking at this unfinished item for a while and decided to finish the concrete pad. The problem I ran into was that I mounted the modified Walthers overhead crane onto pieces of scrap .30 styrene. Now that I have come back to work on this and wondered, how in the world am I going to get my ruler and hands inside the cranes framework to measure and install styrene representing concrete between the rails. My Solution was to use a piece of paper a regular pencil and some blue painters tape. I took some paper cut it to a size that would fit underneath the crane and put it square against the boiler shop wall. Unfortunately I didn't get a photo of that for creating the first two sections of styrene sheet to fit. With the Paper In place I taped it down at the outside edges of the platform section already installed. Take the pencil and make a rub finding the location of the rail. This will stand out darker and allow for perfect lines to cut along to make a template to transfer to some styrene sheet. Just rub the pencil side to side feeling for the rail underneath continuing for the length needed. This method would work great for creating street running scenes. Once you have a template you can transfer it to styrene sheet, brick sheet, cobblestone sheet. Just about any kind of sheet styrene material. I used this same method for doing the wood planking on the railroad bridges on the North end of the yard. Follow the link below halfway down the page. I used Evergreen car siding sheet for the wood planking. http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/11321?page=12 Once I got my rub of the rails it was time to cut along the lines to create the template for transferring to the styrene .30 sheet. I cut the paper along the inside pencil lines. If you cut on the line itself it will not drop between the rails. Below I have the template cut and taped down. Working slow I traced the paper edges onto the styrene. Once the trace is made go ahead and score the plastic on the lines with a #11 blade. Work slow don't try to cut right through on the first try. A couple passes then snap along the lines. Once you have the piece cut out it can be test fitted between the rails making sure to have some space for the wheel flanges on the freight cars to roll freely through. I worked slowly with some 150 grit sandpaper till I could get the freight cars rolling through nicely. I used scrap .30 styrene sheet cut the width of a tie and to fit between the cast spikes on the code 100 flex track to create a mounting spot for the cut out insert between the track. This brought the cut out pad up sitting just a bit below the top of the rails when installed. Use your favorite plastic cement or glue for these and to carefully mount the styrene insert to. The simulated concrete installed between the rails. I used the rubbing method with the pencil to create outlines needed for the styrene sheet between the two sections of track and between the rails. The use of styrene strips are placed underneath the large sheets between the two sets of track for support so it wouldn't sag. Next step is to paint all of this to look like some worn down concrete. Oh yeah I almost forgot, rough the plastic sheet up a bit with the sandpaper so it doesn't have that nice totally flat shiny surface. This should give a better looking texture when the paint goes on and gets weathered. First layer of paint. This area in prototype photos has all sorts of neat details. Pipe, track components, and even Rutland 0-6-0 #100 being cut up for scrap. Next item to work on is a road leading to the concrete pad with a crossing over that piece of track in the foreground. The Real Thing I would turn the cab around to match however, I am not planning on modeling its interior. Close enough. 08/18/2015 Greg
Before I moved the layout to its new home a year ago, I made sure certain sections including track would be easily removed and re-installed. One of the buildings, the boiler shop with its overhead crane could not be completed because it sat right on one of the bench work separation lines. I have been looking at this unfinished item for a while and decided to finish the concrete pad.
The problem I ran into was that I mounted the modified Walthers overhead crane onto pieces of scrap .30 styrene. Now that I have come back to work on this and wondered, how in the world am I going to get my ruler and hands inside the cranes framework to measure and install styrene representing concrete between the rails.
My Solution was to use a piece of paper a regular pencil and some blue painters tape.
I took some paper cut it to a size that would fit underneath the crane and put it square against the boiler shop wall. Unfortunately I didn't get a photo of that for creating the first two sections of styrene sheet to fit.
With the Paper In place I taped it down at the outside edges of the platform section already installed.
Take the pencil and make a rub finding the location of the rail. This will stand out darker and allow for perfect lines to cut along to make a template to transfer to some styrene sheet.
Just rub the pencil side to side feeling for the rail underneath continuing for the length needed.
This method would work great for creating street running scenes. Once you have a template you can transfer it to styrene sheet, brick sheet, cobblestone sheet. Just about any kind of sheet styrene material. I used this same method for doing the wood planking on the railroad bridges on the North end of the yard.
Follow the link below halfway down the page. I used Evergreen car siding sheet for the wood planking.
http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/11321?page=12
Once I got my rub of the rails it was time to cut along the lines to create the template for transferring to the styrene .30 sheet. I cut the paper along the inside pencil lines. If you cut on the line itself it will not drop between the rails.
Below I have the template cut and taped down. Working slow I traced the paper edges onto the styrene.
Once the trace is made go ahead and score the plastic on the lines with a #11 blade. Work slow don't try to cut right through on the first try. A couple passes then snap along the lines.
Once you have the piece cut out it can be test fitted between the rails making sure to have some space for the wheel flanges on the freight cars to roll freely through. I worked slowly with some 150 grit sandpaper till I could get the freight cars rolling through nicely.
I used scrap .30 styrene sheet cut the width of a tie and to fit between the cast spikes on the code 100 flex track to create a mounting spot for the cut out insert between the track. This brought the cut out pad up sitting just a bit below the top of the rails when installed. Use your favorite plastic cement or glue for these and to carefully mount the styrene insert to.
The simulated concrete installed between the rails.
I used the rubbing method with the pencil to create outlines needed for the styrene sheet between the two sections of track and between the rails.
The use of styrene strips are placed underneath the large sheets between the two sets of track for support so it wouldn't sag.
Next step is to paint all of this to look like some worn down concrete.
Oh yeah I almost forgot, rough the plastic sheet up a bit with the sandpaper so it doesn't have that nice totally flat shiny surface. This should give a better looking texture when the paint goes on and gets weathered.
First layer of paint. This area in prototype photos has all sorts of neat details. Pipe, track components, and even Rutland 0-6-0 #100 being cut up for scrap.
Next item to work on is a road leading to the concrete pad with a crossing over that piece of track in the foreground.
The Real Thing
I would turn the cab around to match however, I am not planning on modeling its interior. Close enough.
08/18/2015
Greg
Thank you, Ray. I'm really hoping to get more recent videos uploaded. I'm way overdue. I began the present layout in 1995 and hardly a day goes by that I'm not doing something to change or improve parts of it.
Brian, thanks also. I will look at that blog. I really enjoy "heavy industry" the likes of Freytag, Mike Rabbit and Selios.
Good Luck, Ed