I am building a mine scene on my O-gauge layout; I bought an n-scale locomotive and coal cars to act as the mine workers transportation into the hillside. The track was purchased with the locomotive at a train show several years ago in anticipation of building this scene; I did not note the "code" of the rail. I am now trying to lay down a simple six foot length of track with a reversing section on each end. I measured the rail height with a caliper - 0.08" so I concluded that it is code 80 rail. I purchased metal and plastic code 80 rail joiners for the project and then the fun began: getting these things to slide onto the rail is virtually impossible. Could someone give me some hint about how to solve this? Thanks, Var
The usual problem with getting too-tight rail joiners onto the rails is getting them started.You could use a file or the face of a cut-off disc in a motor tool to round-off the ends of the foot of the rails.
Another option is to do the end of only one rail, and then place each rail joiner, in-turn, onto that end of the rail. In either case, the rounded ends will allow the joiner to start onto the rail, and pushing it on, using either your fingers or pliers, will spread it sufficiently that it can then be installed on even the unmodified rail ends.
On the upper level of my layout, I used Micro Engineering code 83 rail on Central Valley tie strips. I couldn't find any code 83 rail joiners locally, so bought some M.E. code 55 joiners.I used the face of a cut-off disc to make the foot of the rail narrower, then used the same method to reduce its thickness, too, removing material from the bottom. The small joiners then slipped on easily, and after soldering four lengths of rail together, installed the rail, using contact cement, onto the already-in-place tie strips.
The advantge to this method is that there's no need to file or cut depressions in the ties upon which the joiners sit to eliminate the slight bump that they'd otherwise create.
Wayne
Consistent with DoctorWayne's advice . . .
First, make sure the ends of the rails are cut cleanly. No reason to file or round off the flanges, just a clean square cutoff.
Then, I use a small flat blade screwdriver. Small jeweler's eyeglasses style. About 2 mm I think. Insert the blade into the ends of the joiner and swaggle back-and-forth to flare out the curled upper wings. The double wedge shape of the screwdriver blade makes this easy to do. Not too much, just enough to open the ends to clear the rail flange if the joiner got crushed.
Also, make sure the joiners are separated cleanly from each other if they come in a four-unit strip. They bend and break apart easily enough, but there is usually some excess material that needs to be nipped off or it could get bent and curled under the rail ends.
Good luck.
Robert
LINK to SNSR Blog
I use Atlas Code 80 N scale joiners on my HO scale Code 83 track. As Wayne previously stated, the trick is to use a piece of rail as a "joiner sizing" tool. Using jeweler's files, carefully file the top, bottom and sides of the end of a length of rail so that each has a gentle taper. Wrap the other end of the rail in several layers of tape to create a handle. Before fitting a joiner to the end of a piece of track, slide it onto your sizing tool. As long as the end of the track rail is clean and square, the "sized" joiner should now slip onto the end of the rail without much trouble, although I generally "dress" the ends of all track rails to ensure smooth wheel transitions across every rail joint.
Hornblower
Gents: thanks for your suggestions - the keys that got me going were to go back and check for burrs and also rounding the end of the rail to help start the joiners (I had previously used a sharp pliers to spread the joiners a little). I appreciate the help; now good to go. When I get the entire scene done (may be a while) I will post some pictures :)