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Vertical Control Panel?

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  • Member since
    May 2008
  • From: Miles City, Montana
  • 2,289 posts
Vertical Control Panel?
Posted by FRRYKid on Monday, July 30, 2018 6:17 PM

Got yet another one for my Forum friends: Has anyone ever built a vertical control panel? My new layout is in an area where there is not really the room to have an angled panel even with fold out braces. (THe power pack would be on the far left hand end of the panel on a shelf attached with angle brackets.) In actuallity, there's barely room for the layour itself. I would use some scraps of 1x4 to make some short (1 1/2" to 2" long) pieces to act as offsets to allow for wiring to run behind. The height of the layout is designed for an operator to use it while seated.

As usual, any assistance that can be provided would be most welcomed.

"The only stupid question is the unasked question."
Brain waves can power an electric train. RealFact #832 from Snapple.
  • Member since
    January 2017
  • From: Southern Florida Gulf Coast
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Posted by SeeYou190 on Tuesday, July 31, 2018 6:19 AM

Except for my first N scale layout I built in High School, all my layouts have had vertical control panels recessed into the facia.

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-Kevin

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Living the dream.

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Morristown, NJ
  • 808 posts
Posted by nealknows on Tuesday, July 31, 2018 7:42 AM

Here's my control panel

Neal

  • Member since
    May 2010
  • From: SE. WI.
  • 8,253 posts
Posted by mbinsewi on Tuesday, July 31, 2018 9:03 AM

My last big plywood central, about 90 sg.ft., 2 levels of track, I used a vertical control board.  It was wired for cab control, 2 cabs, using Atlas controlers and switches, and it was all mounted on a peice of plywood, with a frame, and picture of track diagram, that hung on the wall.

All of the wiring that went to it, I wrapped up as one "cable",  as it went along the floor than up to the panel.  I put a rug over the cable.

It all got trashed when I took the layout down about 1998.

Mike.

  • Member since
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  • From: Canada, eh?
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Posted by doctorwayne on Tuesday, July 31, 2018 1:32 PM

FRRYKid
....My new layout is in an area where there is not really the room to have an angled panel even with fold out braces. (THe power pack would be on the far left hand end of the panel on a shelf attached with angle brackets.) In actuallity, there's barely room for the layour itself....

I'm not familiar with your layout, but do you actually need a control panel in addition to a space for the power pack?

My layout, also DC-powered, is a walk-around design, and has some toggle switches and other control gear on the fascia, along with 'phone jacks to allow me to plug-in the tethered walk-around throttle, but the power pack is under the layout.  I need access to it only to turn it on or off....

 

Only one turnout is powered due to its location in a turning wye (under the girder bridge, to the right, in the photo below) while all of the others are manually operated and easily reachable.  The two toggle switches on the curved fascia control both the Tortoise switch machine and the reversing circuit...


If you have powered switch machines for your turnouts, is it possible to place the electrical switches for them on the layout's fascia, near to the turnouts' locations? 

As for the power pack, most have a base which would allow you to use screws to mount it vertically on either the fascia or on a control panel.
Another option would be to put the power pack on a roll-out shelf, either beside or under the control panel.  Simple short drawer slides and some scrap lumber should be sufficient to construct something suitable.

Wayne

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  • From: Miles City, Montana
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Posted by FRRYKid on Tuesday, July 31, 2018 6:34 PM

doctorwayne

I'm not familiar with your layout, but do you actually need a control panel in addition to a space for the power pack?

Given the plan, I think so. It will end up being an "L" shape. The leg of the "L" is a hair over 14' long. A majority of that is 28" wide x 160" long. (Two old 80" long closet doors.) The next part is a pentagonal section that angles (at a 45) from the 28" to 43" wide and that then goes straight for 23.5". (Right before that angle is where the shelf would go and the panel would start.) The forth section is 48" w x 63" l to create the bottom of the "L," It joins to the 23.5" side on part of one of the 63" sides. (That is the only section that will be reused from my old layout. It was shortened to fit.)

Most likely there will be about 20 switch machines. (Rail yard with a team/industrial track and a rail shop and a car ferry with a lake.) There are about 18-20 power blocks.

doctorwayne

As for the power pack, most have a base which would allow you to use screws to mount it vertically on either the fascia or on a control panel.

The one I am using doesn't. (I double checked.) It is a Tech II 2400.

"The only stupid question is the unasked question."
Brain waves can power an electric train. RealFact #832 from Snapple.
  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: Canada, eh?
  • 13,375 posts
Posted by doctorwayne on Tuesday, July 31, 2018 9:37 PM

By the sound of it, you might benefit from a walk-around throttle, run from your existing power pack.  That would allow you to not only place the power pack beneath the layout (but still accessible enough for you to easily turn it on or off), but would also give you more close contact with pretty-well the entire length of the layout.  You could then mount the turnout controls on the layout's fascia, each near to the turnout which it controls.

There's some info HERE about throttles which work from either the DC or AC input from a power pack, and put out PWM (pulse width modulated) power to the track.  This is similar to that used with DCC. 
I have one of these throttles, the model 821A, and it puts out plenty of power and offers great speed control, too. 

The thottles come with info concerning the necessary wiring, and the owner stands behind his products.  I picked mine up in-person, as he's only 12 miles-or-so from my location.

Mine is on a 30' springy 'phone cord, and can be plugged in at several locations around the layout, using standard 'phone jacks...

Wayne

  • Member since
    May 2008
  • From: Miles City, Montana
  • 2,289 posts
Posted by FRRYKid on Tuesday, July 31, 2018 10:44 PM

The walk around throttle is not a viable option at least by my thinking. The right hand door is in a position where there is not much room around it. (The bed is about 6 inches from the section. Yes, I want the layout that badly! There is room for me to get in sideways. My bedroom is the only room long enough to hold the design. When I wake up I could put my chin on the section without getting off the bed.) The sections are built with five legs. (Two legs in front and three in the back for easier access.) I can see the yard from a sitting position where the panel is planned to go.

"The only stupid question is the unasked question."
Brain waves can power an electric train. RealFact #832 from Snapple.
  • Member since
    January 2001
  • From: US
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Posted by EMDSD40 on Thursday, August 2, 2018 10:15 AM

air control panelcontrol panelcontrol panelcontrol panel My layout consists of two levels......straight DC HO layout on top and AC powered "O" scale layout on the bottom. My "electrical locker" is built under the middle section of the HO layout. This houses all power supplies which are mounted on a single shelf. All block control switches, lighting circuit switches, and HO turnout switches are mounted on a plexiglass panel for both layouts. Turnouts for the "O" scale layout are pnuematic. A vertical control panel with air tank and air switches is mounted on the opposite side of "electrical locker" aisleway. This has served me well for 30 years. Changes have been made through the years rather easily. Strongly recommend using a step drill bit on plastic or plexiglass to prevent cracking if you planned on using that type of material. I will attempt to include photos as an example. This type of set up has worked very well for me as I control the layout from the middle utilizing several duck unders and aisleways. Photos went over from IMGUR...first try at this.....not sure of the final product here....Sorry if this turns out poorly. Will attempt to delete if that is the case.

  • Member since
    May 2008
  • From: Miles City, Montana
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Posted by FRRYKid on Thursday, August 2, 2018 11:44 AM

EMDSD40

Strongly recommend using a step drill bit on plastic or plexiglass to prevent cracking if you planned on using that type of material.

Have a piecce of plywood that I will be using for both the panel and the shelf. Originallhy planned to be used for benchwork but that plan didn't work.

Based on what I am seeing, I think I will plan on doing it as a vertical. I still have another section that I need to finish rebuilding so it will be a few weeks yet before I install it.

"The only stupid question is the unasked question."
Brain waves can power an electric train. RealFact #832 from Snapple.

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