I am building a Details Associate Roundhouse and it came with Campbell's shingles. The picture of the roof, is deceiving, and taking my own pictures did not help. It looks like a simple trapezoid.
It is not, nor is it a gentle curve. Each roof above each stall is a trapezoid in a separate plane from the next roof segment.
A strip of shingles cannot simply curve around, they have to change angles at every section (3) of roof.
My instinct is to start on the middle section, hard to explain why, but I think it might be easier to get the angle where they meet to look right. Is that right or should I start on the end and work my way right to left?
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
I've never done a round house roof, but pictures I've seen on a search, show each section, handled as a seperate roof, with a typical roof "valley" between each section. The back side would be a typical roof "ridge".
I wouldn't think it would matter where you started.
Mike.
My You Tube
The best place to start is at the bottom.
Mike's suggestion to use valleys between segments is prototypical, and solves the problem of the angles created by the shape of the roof segments.I'd do the middle section first, since it's the only one where each course will need to be pre-cut to length. The outer sections can be cut a little longer than needed, then trimmed after all shingles are in place.
I used Campbell shingles on several structures, but since all of them were styrene, didn't use the pre-gummed feature. Instead, I cut all of the slightly oversize strips needed for the entire roof, then brushed-on gelled contact cement, being very careful to keep the strips from coming in contact with one another.The roof was then given a quick brushed-on coating of lacquer thinner to "prep" the styrene (this keeps the styrene from drawing too much solvent out of the contact cement, and allows the brushed-on cement to go on much more smoothly). After the contact cement had dried for the specified time, it was quick and easy work to add the shingles. After all were in place, I used a sharp blade to trim-off the excess at the gable ends...
Wayne
Thanks guys, great pics as always Wayne.
Mel are you working with styrene as the reason to use glue?
BigDaddyA strip of shingles cannot simply curve around, they have to change angles at every section (3) of roof.
Nevermind--brainfart.
Chip
Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.
i no longer use the campbell shingles but when i did i used krylon spray adhesive ,a word of caution upon moving over to styreen from wood i found it would some times warp the roof. i now use B.E.S.T. shingles.
Campbell shingles are great. I use plain white glue and never had a problem with alcohol stains for finishing. You can curve the Campbell shingles. For the top ridge I use strip wood, just looks better to me than laying on single shingles as they end up being too thick.
BigDaddyMy instinct is to start on the middle section, hard to explain why, but I think it might be easier to get the angle where they meet to look right. Is that right or should I start on the end and work my way right to left?
In the real world, using roll shingles as you are doing, you would weave them, overlapping first one side then the other.
Here, I would lay the first row along the bottom of the center running a little long on both sides. Then do the outsides running long over the valley. Now complete both side sections before coming back to the center. Then I would lay the center section. Now when you cut the angles, there will be no gap, and no tell-tale modelers cut line.
The roof got delayed because of the roundhouse track work, which was delayed because of turntable electrical issues, which.....
I brought the chimneys upstairs, still in their package, so I could cut them off the sprues and paint them a flat black and they disappeared off the kitchen table.
Until they turn up there is still plenty of roof to do. A pair of straight iris scissors and curved tweezers are invaluable.
The shingles are curved, because of the cuts in one end to make the shingles, that edge is longer than the uncut edge. As soon as you start laying a strip down, the end wants to go up. I takes a little practice to deal with that.
Wayne how did you do the top ridge? This is Wayne's building from earlier in this thread, not mine.
BigDaddy...how did you do the top ridge?...
Since I couldn't remember, I took a closer look and discovered it to be not very prototypically correct. As near as I can tell, it looks as if I likely cut a full-length strip of shingle material, then coated the entire back of it with the gelled contact cement, also coating the ridge area in the same manner.Once the cement had dried for the appropriate amount of time, I used a sharp blade to remove the plain, non-shingle area of the strip, leaving the individual shingles more-or-less held together by the contact cement. I don't recall how I managed to apply them as accurately as they appear, with half of the shingles' length on one side of the ridge and the other half folded-over onto the other side, but here's a close-up view of the ridge, taken a few minutes ago, showing the unprototypical job, which hopefully won't be so noticeable once the structure is in-place on the layout....
(For shingling the main areas of the roof, the contact cement was applied only to the styrene roof and to the entire back-side of the shingle strips - no cement was applied to the exposed portion of the shingle strips that would be covered by the application of subsequent strips - in other words, the shingles on the roof's surface are cemented only to the roof, not to the portion of the strips over which they're applied.)
Thanks Wayne, somehow contact cement isn't on my go to list.
I don't live in an area where we have these kind of roofs so I'm not sure what prototypical really looks like, but your looks good enough to view from 3' away.
Anyone else have any ideas about the ridge cap?
My chimneys turned up, they were in a pill bottle so easily lost among other pill bottles that contain KD coupler springs and, of all things, pills.
I have read, in the past, that on shake roofs, the shakes butted together, from alternating sides, at the roof peak, but just recently read that a ridge cap, consisting of cedar boards, is preferable for cedar shingles.
I can't see any reason why it wouldn't work with shakes, too, as long as the boards are thick enough.
On a regular asphalt shingle roof, using 3-tab shingles, the usual practice is to cut the shingle to separate the three tabs, then lay each crossways on the ridge, bending half onto each side of the roof, and partially overlapping it with the next one - sorta like I did with the faux cedar shingles on my model.
SpaceMouseIn the real world, using roll shingles as you are doing, you would weave them, overlapping first one side then the other.
.
This is what I was going to suggest.
I watched the crew put the new roof on my house, and this is what they did in the valley.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
SeeYou190SpaceMouse In the real world, using roll shingles as you are doing, you would weave them, overlapping first one side then the other.
SeeYou190This is what I was going to suggest.
That's fine for valley's but Henry is asking about the ridge, and Wayne's explanation is great.
And his explanantion on how a ridge is done with 3 tabs, conventional or textured, is right on.
Maybe for modeling the shake ridge, you could cut two shingles from the sheet, and fold them in half, length wise, saddle them over the roof peak, and continue, leaving a reveal on each set of shingles as you go.
There must be somebody reading this thread who hasn't seen the Campbells shingles product. This is a metric ruler, the cut part of the shingles are only 2.5mm.
I like Mel's idea of packing tape.
BigDaddyThere must be somebody reading this thread who hasn't seen the Campbells shingles product.
That would be me! Yea, Mel's idea looks good.
OR, could you use the top part, that's not cut into shingles?
For my crossing watchman's shanties, I used a "metal" (paper) ridge-cap, and didn't worry about how a real one would have been installed without the use of visible nails...
My hope is that viewers find them interesting enough that they don't bother questioning the particulars of prototypical construction.
Like I said before, I use square stripwood that will fit in the valley at the ridge between the two roof peices, once stained it blends right in.
Follow up.
I used kraft paper and Elmers, which as far as I can tell is grocery bag paper. The color is almost the same.
Looks great Henry.