Fascia materials - alternatives to Masonite

[freeway3]

To compliment the backdrop materials thread, looking for ideas / alternatives to using Masonite hardboard for curved fascia.

[BNSF UP and others modeler]

I saw an article in a MRR magazine that used felt.

[ATLANTIC CENTRAL]

freeway3

To compliment the backdrop materials thread, looking for ideas / alternatives to using Masonite hardboard for curved fascia.

 

If you really need it curved, there is 1/4" plywood used as flooring underlayment that is just as flexable as Masonite. And once painted will hold paint better than the hard side of Masonite.

Sheldon

[gmpullman]

freeway3

To compliment the backdrop materials thread, looking for ideas / alternatives to using Masonite hardboard for curved fascia.

 

I used thinner lauan plywood similar to the underlayment but it seems to be a little more flexible than the 1/4" underlayment.

Then I covered it with a fabric covering that is supposed to be indoor/outdoor carpet.

IMG_7722_fix by Edmund, on Flickr

I believe it is available in green, tan, gray and some places have blue.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/TrafficMASTER-Elevations-Color-Leaf-Green-Ribbed-Texture-Indoor-Outdoor-12-ft-Carpet-7PD5N620144H/203240737

I applied it with a notched trowel.

IMG_8425_fix by Edmund, on Flickr

Digi_pocket by Edmund, on Flickr

IMG_7108 by Edmund, on Flickr

Originally I had a durable vinyl wall paper in a similar color. It was good but I like this fabric much better. When I was building the layout in 1995, I covered the walls above the benchwork in a similar, gray fabric. It deadens sound, does not scuff or show scratches and if you remove a screw from hanging a picture or something, the hole disappears. For background photos, Velcro sticks to the stuff, too 

YMMV 

Hope that helps, Ed

[dknelson]

There was a craze years ago to use wallboard "wood" paneling, which often covered the room walls as well giving the entire layout room sort of a "den" or "smoking parlor" look (the phrase "man cave" not yet being invented) which frankly now looks a bit cheesy to most people.  You expect to see Hugh Hefner at the throttle, pipe-in-mouth, after having read Railroad Model Craftsman by lava lamp. 

But it was neat and clean and -- it should be remembered -- was not really being compared to other fascia options but rather to no fascia at all, because the entire idea of a fascia was still new. 

I have seen the indoor-outdoor carpet/velcro-ready look that Ed shows and if neatly applied it can be very effective looking.    

The best Masonite fascias I see are those where the owner decided NOT to paint it but left it brown.  Painted Masonite tends not to "age" well it seems.

Dave Nelson 

[doctorwayne]

I used 1/8" Masonite for fascia and for adding coved corners to the backdrop.  It's reasonably-priced, easy with which to work, and does what I need it to do...

Seven of the ten corners in the room are coved, using 1/8" Masonite atop 3/8" drywall in the corners, abutting the 1/2" drywall backdrop. 
This shows one of the inside corners before the partial upper level of the layout was installed...

...as does this...

...and two are outside corners...

All of the Masonite was cut using a Skilsaw, and attached to the layout with drywall screws.  I used a countersink to recess the screwheads.

If you opt for Masonite, don't waste money on the "tempered" variety:  the tempering applies only to the hardness of the surface - it serves well as a finished top for a workbench, but is no more flexible than the regular version.

Wayne

[ATLANTIC CENTRAL]

And there lies the big difference and big problem. Around here untempered 1/8" Masonite is not generally available. Even better commercial lumber yards only carry 1/4" tempered and peg board.

Sheldon

[selector]

I had some 1/8" mahogany-veneer plywood in 4X8 sheets left over as a cover for my second layout.  I had put a coat of varathane or polyurethane on it to protect the mahogany, and removed those slightly altered sheets when I dismantled the layout.  When I built my third layout, it needed fascia, some of it curved.  I cut the sheets of the mahogany veneer to suit, applied it, and then painted it with an 'oops' paint.

The polyurethane didn't make it more pliable, unfortunately, but I could get curves with radius of about 8" into it without it splitting, by now 8 years after the polyurethane application.

[gregc]

styrene

[da1]

Second to styrene.

Specifically, 1/16" styrene.

Can be cut with a knife - no sawdust or recip saw.
Easy to paint and drill holes.

I used for both facia and backdrops.

 

 

 

My other favourite sawdust free material is t-bar hardware.

 

 

Dwayne A

[doctorwayne]

da1

Second to styrene. Specifically, 1/16" styrene. Can be cut with a knife - no sawdust or recip saw. Easy to paint and drill holes. I used for both facia and backdrops.

I'm curious as to how you've secured it in place, in both applications.  I buy .060"  (just slightly thinner than 1/16th) sheet styrene in 4'x8' sheets, and while it's a great scratchbuilding material, it doesn't have a great deal of structural integrity in large expanses unless it's well-braced (or, as fascia/backdrop, well-fastened at fairly close intervals. 

Wayne

[Santa Fe all the way!]

1/8" Sintra is also an alternative to Masonite. Bends very nicely for corners. You can get it fairly inexpensively at sign making companies. 

[da1]

doctorwayne

I'm curious as to how you've secured it in place, in both applications.  I buy .060"  (just slightly thinner than 1/16th) sheet styrene in 4'x8' sheets, and while it's a great scratchbuilding material, it doesn't have a great deal of structural integrity in large expanses unless it's well-braced (or, as fascia/backdrop, well-fastened at fairly close intervals.

Secured with screws and washers to L-girder trusses and bits of t-bar hardware where extra support was needed.  

1/16" is flexible and plenty strong.

1/16" styrene is available in 4x8 sheets making it as plentiful and easy to work in large quantities as paper/wood based products.  But styrene can be cut with a knife.  T-bar hardware can be cut with tin-snips and bent with plyers.  In the end - no sawdust!

D 

 

[bogp40]

A product not to over look is 1/4" MDF. For our rair large club layout we were looking for a facia product that is easily cut, sanded and takes prime/ paint well. Needed to bend for radiused corners. Masonite and luan was considered, however, the properties and workability of the MDF won. MDF is not as stable as masonite if you encounter varying humid conditions. We tend to stabilize this for any layout location. The train room for the layout is climate controled, we felt the MDF should do fine.

 

[freeway3]

Thanks for all the ideas.  Ed, I like your "soap holder" throttle pockets!  I never thought about styrene (or Sintra) for this application, looks interesting.  Didn't know it was available in large sheets (40" x 72"). How is it shipped?

[MisterBeasley]

I don't use curved fascia at all.  I build my benchwork with 1x4 pine for the outward face, and make 45 or 90 degree angles, typically.  I sand, stain and polyurethane the wood frame, along with the 2x2 or 2x3 legs.