To get the BEST electrical conduction between rail segments soldered rail joints are recommended...
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
Yep, that's just how I did mine. The wife did a lot of shouting at the top of the stairs "Now what are you doing, and whats burning?"
Cool video.
Mike.
My You Tube
I actually had a gag article prepared for MR when I was in college, for 'scale' CWR using actual Thermite in tiny crucibles/refractory molds, and teeny little thermocouple thermometers to check the neutral temperature. Kits for the ones that did not set properly, to excise and cut 'stock' replacement using ground-down Dremel cutoff wheels in scale-size saw housings...
Also kits to make realistic functional insulated joints and apply rail anchors. All this with 'patter' describing prototype best practice for that verisimilitudinous touch. Might still make for an amusing article for an upcoming year.
I've wondered about using the solder tape we use for brazing saw tips in, and a pair of "heads" for my resistance soldering station that are to a specific rail code/manufacturer.
Clamp on to the joint with the tape pre loaded on one head, add power, done....
This space reserved for SpaceMouse's future presidential candidacy advertisements
Heck, those guys have it easy... when soldering, we have to watch out for those plastic ties, they don't have to worry a bit about melting those concrete ones!
Jim
Two questions:
1) When trying this at home, should I open a window?
2) More importantly, why didn't they just use a big rail joiner, tin the rails and solder it with a really, really big pencil iron? With concrete ties, as pointed out, they would not even need heat sinks, such as really, really big alligator clips.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent