Hi,
Does anybody have any suggestions on how you would transion
form Ho cork roadbed to N scale cork roadbed. I am using N scale cork
roadbed for passing sidings and branch lines.
Thanks,
Chris
I have not done this but two ideas:
1: sand in a taper in the HO cork.
2: Get a bundle os shims at a big box store. Cut off the thin end at the difference in thickness and butt it against the HO cork, then put the n cork on top.
Dave
Dave has pretty-well covered it. In the photo below, the track leading off that with the light-coloured ballast, and heading towards a turnout near the green fence is a transition from HO scale cork down to plywood. The length of it is about 14", done, with a piece of #36 garnet paper wrapped around a short block of 2"x2", in less than two minutes...
The shim would be even quicker, if you have it handy.
Wayne
I use a Surform, Hempe, or other rasp/plane. Even faster than sandpaper, in fact be careful not to take too much at first as it's easy to do if you've not used on eon cork before.
Be cautious with the shims. It seems as if they're not steep at all and they will probably work fine for 40' cars, but longer cars and locos may find them still a bit steep.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
I may be alone in this approach but I am seriously considering N scale cork roadbed for the mainlines on the new HO scale layout that I am contemplating, transitioning to no roadbed for spurs and yards.
Can someone tell me a reason not to do that?
Rich
Alton Junction
Sand it.
Alan
Freelancing the LK&O Railroad
The difference in thickness between the two is not all that great. I do use shims but don't buy them: I save all those "Your Name Here" fake credit cards that come in the (daily) junk mail. One or at most two of them is about right.
Dave Nelson
I have an idea, don't use cork, use Homasote roadbed from Cascade Rail Supply (previous brands, Califorina Roadbed, Homabed).
They have roadbed in different thicknesses and transitions:
https://cascaderailsupply.com/
And it can be cut, sanded and shaped better than cork.
Sheldon
richhotrain I may be alone in this approach but I am seriously considering N scale cork roadbed for the mainlines on the new HO scale layout that I am contemplating, transitioning to no roadbed for spurs and yards. Can someone tell me a reason not to do that? Rich
doctorwayne richhotrain I may be alone in this approach but I am seriously considering N scale cork roadbed for the mainlines on the new HO scale layout that I am contemplating, transitioning to no roadbed for spurs and yards. Can someone tell me a reason not to do that? Rich I certainly wouldn't tell you to not do it, Rich, but how does N scale cork work out, width-wise, for HO scale?
What I like about N scale cork roadbed is that its 3mm high profile is 2mm lower than HO scale cork roadbed. Thus, the ballast angle is not as high or severe, something that drives me nuts in HO scale.
richhotrain doctorwayne richhotrain I may be alone in this approach but I am seriously considering N scale cork roadbed for the mainlines on the new HO scale layout that I am contemplating, transitioning to no roadbed for spurs and yards. Can someone tell me a reason not to do that? Rich I certainly wouldn't tell you to not do it, Rich, but how does N scale cork work out, width-wise, for HO scale? One of the Midwest N scale cork products is just wide enough to support an HO scale double mainline 2 inch on center. What I like about N scale cork roadbed is that its 3mm high profile is 2mm lower than HO scale cork roadbed. Thus, the ballast angle is not as high or severe, something that drives me nuts in HO scale. Rich
One of the Midwest N scale cork products is just wide enough to support an HO scale double mainline 2 inch on center.
And Cascade makes HO roadbed 3.5 mm high.......
Thanks, Sheldon, Cascade Rail Supply is something worth considering.
crisco1 Hi, Does anybody have any suggestions on how you would transion form Ho cork roadbed to N scale cork roadbed. I am using N scale cork roadbed for passing sidings and branch lines. Thanks, Chris
Sure.
Install the roadbed(s).
Lay the track and spike it down EXCEPT for a specific distance on the N scale roadbed. I would guess a foot would do. Maybe less. We're talking about a grade change of about 1/10".
Put some ballast under the track in the "specific distance" section, and glue it down.
I strongly suggest not have the "specific distance" section in a curve, unless it is quite gentle.
Ed
I would be reluctant to put track directly on plywood subroadbed because of the lack of noise dampening. Although using caulk to lay the track might help, some have noted that ballasting with a hard setting glue (white glue, etc.) will transmit the noise. You may want to do a test piece before committing.
On my HO layout, I use Midwest cork for the main and passing sidings (though I think using the N scale roadbed for sidings is a good idea).
For spurs and yard tracks I use 3/32" thick sheet cork from Hobby Lobby, which is sold in rolls. I make the transition in the regular roadbed with the Surform tool, typically a 9" ramp, which is about a 1% grade. If using the HL cork on a curve, I use two 3/4" to 1" wide strips positioned on the track centerline.
Jim
If your cork is on foam, just lower the cork into the foam by cutting a sloping trench in the foam to where the two meet. I use the method to get down to sidings, it is quick and easy.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
Hi crisco1
By now you have probably decided on how you will make the transition, but I want to show you the easiest and simplest way.
First keep in mind that track may flex horizontaly, but is difficult to bend vertically. I learned from another member several years ago that to transition from roadbed to the layout top just lay down your track. The track will support you train and all you need to do is fill the gap with ballast.
I have three tranistions done this way with no problems. The following video transitioning from HO roadbed will show what I mean. In this case I used several supports on the outside rail to give it some elevation.
This is my first video attachment so let's hope it works.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ovnkKS_K0IQ&feature=youtu.be
Bob
EDIT: Now I have to learn how to limit the link to just my video.
Don't Ever Give Up
Bob, I will agree with you that simply laying flextrack in transition and then filling the void with ballast should work. But in your video which is labeled "track transition without shimming", you did in fact add shims and you can see the track flex which could lead to derailments.
I shimmed using shims purchasedd at Home Depot. Now I have a lot of shims that I dont know what to do with. If I had a fireplace, I would not have all those extra shims any more. The trick to shimming this way is to make sure you have a long and gradual enough transition between the HO roadbed and the N roadbed. Some sanding down of the shim was required.
Bear "It's all about having fun."
Rich,
The "shims" as stated in a previous post was to give the outside rail super elevation.
The track movement you saw was before ballasting
All's well that ends well except for that terrible kink. Fortunately it is an appearance problem not an operating one. Bob
All's well that ends well except for that terrible kink. Fortunately it is an appearance problem not an operating one.
I used a palm sander with 60 Grit paper in it. It does a fine job and doesn't take forever. I had the shopvac running right next to the roadbed; worked fine.