Shells

[Track fiddler]

Hello Forum members.

I am taking two weeks off for the holidays and I'm not going anywhere. My one daughter is coming here Christmas Eve, unfortunately my other daughter is in China, I will not be seeing her this Christmas. My son busy with his fiance and her family, rightfully so.

Two weeks off. It is my thought to spend that time wisely. I wish to spend that time doing what I love and work on my model railroad. Sounds good to me, Stressless and relaxing.

It was always my thought to do everything out of foam.  I'm sure I could but right now I am eager for some production to get a lot done in my two weeks.

I want to adopt and use a shell method to gap my levels up to grade of the roadbed levels without adding a lot of weight. I'm confident you guys know what I'm talking about.

Being a lifetime Craftsman in the trades I do work well with my hands. This is the one thing I do have. The one thing I don't have is the experience you lifetime modelers have as model Railroaders.

Any advice in Shell techniques and keeping things on the lighter side will be well appreciated.

Thanks much and Happy Holidays

Track Fiddler

 

[RR_Mel]

I used Paper Mache over foam blocks for my scenery base.  I learned the hard way that Paper Mache shrinks as it dries.  Never the less I really like the sturdiness of Paper Mache.  If you use Plastic Saran Wrap over the foam then spread a thin layer (¼”) of Paper Mache over the Plastic Wrap, the Plastic Wrap can easily be removed from the under side of the Paper Mache when dry and makes a very strong and light weight scenery shell.  It remains slightly flexible but strong.  If you don’t fully wet it it doesn’t need under support.  The plastic Wrap lets the Paper Mache shrinkage do it's thing without screwing up anything.

 

I have used Hydrocal and Sculptamold on top of a Paper Mache shell when the Paper Mache is supported do to the water in the mix.

 

Premix Paper Mache is available from most Craft stores.  I’ve had very good luck with Activa CelluClay, just add water similar to Hydrocal or Plaster of Paris and mix into a mud paste.

 

If you get the mix too wet it will take a couple of days to fully dry.  It takes a slight learning curve to get the correct mix but I find it well worth the extra time for the end product.  I’ve used Paper Mache of 50 years and never had any problems if you compensate for the shrinkage, very durable.

 

EDIT:

 

The Paper Mache can be easily cut after it dries using a X-acto saw, much like cardboard.

 

Mel

 

Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951

 

 

My Model Railroad   

http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

 

Bakersfield, California

 

I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

 

[cowman]

I have collected foam from construction sites to build my scenery with.  Cutting and shaping don't take very long at all.  I use Sculptamold over the foam where I want stainable ledges.  Buying the foam would add considerable cost, but it is fast and easy to work with and doesn't need to wait to dry.  I have used both Sculptamold and Fast 'n Final spackling compound to seal the seams in the foam.

Good luck,

Richard

[mbinsewi]

I remember my first attempt at scenery, to give my plywood central some life.  I used crumpled up news paper, covered with layers of paper mache, made from the same news paper.  It took forever to dry, as my up stairs bedroom in an old farm house was cold.

Oh well, enough reminiscing.  There are a few modelers/builders on here that have used the cardboard strips, to smooth out differences in elevations.  I know MRR has had some articles on the process.

You go for what you want.  When I gave up on the paper mache, I went to the foam.  I don't see much difference in weight, when the process is complete, as I didn't use castings or plaster on the foam, just paint and ground cover.

The shell process was the standard go-to method before foam.

Mike.

[rrebell]

Built a large layout with 1x4 frame and beaded foam 2" topper. Worked great and very, very light even after doing scenery such as covering all exposed areas with plaster cloth, used cork for the roadbed.  Inclines I used thw WS stuff. If you want to keep it light, keep away from masonite backdrops and facia. On this layout I built mountains out of foam. I had a 4'x4' section I could lift with one finger before I added rockwork (found a way to make light rockwork with plaster) and even then I could pick it up with one hand. Once I did a masonite however it got heavy but not that heavy, two hands now.

 

[Track fiddler]

cowman

I have collected foam from construction sites to build my scenery with.  Cutting and shaping don't take very long at all.  I use Sculptamold over the foam where I want stainable ledges.  Buying the foam would add considerable cost, but it is fast and easy to work with and doesn't need to wait to dry.  I have used both Sculptamold and Fast 'n Final spackling compound to seal the seams in the foam.

Good luck,

Richard

 

Cowman I like what I'm hearing here. Foam from construction sites. I am the construction site I have a boatload of the stuff in my tool trailer that have been saving just for this purpose. Maybe I should give it a shot, maybe it will go quicker than I think. What's really strikes me here is the Fast & Final that you recommend. I am extremely familiar with this product. I have been using it in construction for years. The stuff is like ironing out imperfections in your walls before painting using whipped cream to fill your small voids. Seriously I never thought about using the stuff for modeling. I'm telling you sometimes common sense with me just isn't there. Thanks good call.

I am also going to use the paper mache technique recommended by Mel. My brother and I used that technique when we were kids on the layout we did together, I do remember it worked well.

I do appreciate everyone's information and advice on shells thus far. All advice is appreciated.

I'm tossing my tool belt in 10 days. All information is good information.

Thanks kindly.......Happy Holidays

Track Fiddler