The dry transfers I have on hand recommend protecting with a clear coat acrylic sealer. I've shot some acrylic paints thru my airbrush with success, but zero experience shooting acrylic clear coats. Would appreciate any advice on brand and thinning of flat acrylic clear coats for air brush application.
Thanks and regards, Peter
I've not used any clear acrylics with my airbrush, but if you're not uncomfortable using a non-acrylic finish, Testors' Dullcote does a very nice job over dry transfers. I'm referring to Dullcote in a bottle, not the stuff from a spray can. I thin it using ordinary lacquer thinner, anywhere from 30-50% thinner, and spray at around 25-30psi.Probably at least 75% of my rolling stock and locomotives have been lettered with dry transfers, and I've never had any issues with Dullcote applied in this manner. Buying it in the bottle rather than a spray can allows lighter and more controlled applications and, in my opinion, the bottle goes a lot further than the can.Another advantage is that you can mix Dullcote and Glosscote in varying proportions to get whatever degree of semi-gloss you want - after all, not everything needs to be dead-flat.
Wayne
Pledge Floor Finish. Out of the bottle, it's thin enough to pass through an airbrush, and it's acrylic. That's what I sued on the white tank car with red saddle that I posted in Weekend Photo Fun a few weekend's ago.
Liquitex makes some Gloss and Satin finishes, but I haven't had any chance to practice/experiment with them thru an airbrush (yet).
Terry
Inspired by Addiction
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Thanks for the replies Wayne and Terry.
doctorwayneDullcote in a bottle
Dullcote thinned 50/50 with lacquer thinner is my go to flat sealer and I've used it extensively over dry transfers in the past without ill effects, but the instructions with the newer Cloverhouse brand transfers I have (a couple years old) recommend a few acrylic clear sealers and say specifially that "Testors #1160 Dullcote Lacquer and Testors #1260 Spray Lacquer cause an undesirable reaction with currently available dry transfer ink."
I also have some Woodland Scenics transfers and the instructions recommend acrylic clear coats for sealing, but no specific brands.
Thanks again and regards, Peter
I've used the Dullcote thinned with lacquer thinner on C-D-S and Woodland Scenics dry transfers without difficulty, but have not used the ones from Cloverhouse.
Are there some characters on the transfer sheet that aren't needed for your current project? Perhaps you could apply them to a suitable surface and test to see what effect the airbrushed Dullcote has on them. One of the advantages of airbrushing the Dullcote is the ability to apply a very light coat. Since it dries so quickly, a couple of light passes, if it doesn't affect the transfers, should be enough to protect them from subsequent applications.
PennCentral99Pledge Floor Finish. Out of the bottle, it's thin enough to pass through an airbrush, and it's acrylic.
I believe what Peter is looking for is a flat finish to protect the applied dry transfers - I'm guessing that Pledge floor finish would be a gloss, but if they do offer a matte finish, that might be a good choice.
doctorwayne PennCentral99 Pledge Floor Finish. Out of the bottle, it's thin enough to pass through an airbrush, and it's acrylic. I believe what Peter is looking for is a flat finish to protect the applied dry transfers - I'm guessing that Pledge floor finish would be a gloss, but if they do offer a matte finish, that might be a good choice. Wayne
PennCentral99 Pledge Floor Finish. Out of the bottle, it's thin enough to pass through an airbrush, and it's acrylic.
yes sir, i would imagine he needs something to go with his awesome buildings. Yes, pledge dries to a gloss, they want your floors to look good. In our case, once the pledge is dry and has sealed the dry transfer or decal and whatever inks or pigments they use, you can come back over it with the dullcoat.
Agreed, there has to be something on his work bench that he can use for a test run.
Ah Hah!
PennCentral99something on his work bench
Not on the work bench, but close by in the house cleaning supply cabinet, a nearly full container of Pledge Floor Care Finish. It's likely been in there for years, but it still looks clear.
Since I'm considering adding a decal after applying the dry transfers a coat of pledge over the entire surface after the transfers are set might make for a good decal base. Then come back and go over both with the Dullcote.
Also have plenty of extra dry transfers on the sheet for testing. Looking forward to doing some experimenting during the upcoming week. Thanks again Terry and Wayne!
Mel, BTW, the Tru-Color TCP-17 clear flat is one of the sealers recommended by Cloverhouse for their dry transfers.
Peter,
Here is another alternative should You want to try. Vallejo clear Satin Varnish, 100% Acrylic Resin. Does a fantastic job on miniatures, especially Wargaming Figures that are handled alot. I use it all the time on just about everything I used Dull-cote for. Air-brushed and brushed:
http://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Model-Kits/Paint-Brushes/70.522-Satin-Varnish-Acrylicos-Vallejo-Acrylic-Resin-Model-Color/p/108157
Take Care!
Frank
For clear acrylic coats, I use Tamiya spray cans, which come with a nozzle that creates a very fine spray - similar to an airbrush. It comes in flat (which IIRC is just called "clear"), gloss, and semi-gloss.
It's been more than 48 hrs since I air brush mist coated two dry transfer test pieces and neither are showing any ill effects. One with a 50/50 mix of #1160 Dullcote & lacquer thinner and the other with Pledge Floor Care Finish.
The Pledge shot easily thru the air brush right out of the container, but upon application noticed what appeared to be "orange peel", though closer inspection revealed what I think was a surface tension beading effect. In any case as the Pledge dried it smoothed out with the beading effect going away for the most part.
Maybe mixing something with the Pledge to reduce surface tension before air brush application might be a good idea? Or maybe I was shooting with too much pressure at 18 PSI?
Thanks to all for your time, tips and advice, regards, Peter
HO-VeloOr maybe I was shooting with too much pressure at 18 PSI?
I would be inclined to believe....not enough pressure. Sounds like it is spitting it out.
Have a look at this:
http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html
Recommended pressure 15 PSI. I airbrushed some Pledge on two tank cars and a caboose yesterday in preparation for decals with good results.
Guy
Modeling CNR in the 50's
Guy,
I have been using it for quite some time on other models, not Railroad related and actually use the original Future, still have a lot left. I was spraying at 20 to 25 psi. with a Paasche H-model with medium tip and did not have any problems with it. It does state in Your link 15 to 20 psi. and they also said the formula is not quite the same on the new.....Interesting link.... I actually got the tip from some FSM modelers yrs. ago.
Guy, Interesting and informative link, lots of food for thought and experimentation. For starters sounds like I shot the Pledge at too close a distance and not a heavy enough coat.
Thanks & regards, Peter
Peter - It appears your experiments are yielding positive results. It's amazing that we can use products designed for other uses with good outcomes.
I saw in the article about using Pledge as a setting solution for decals instead of MicroSol/MicroSet; I will try this on a project, too bad I already spent $4 per bottle on them.
This has been an interesting thread with good dialog.